E30 1985 318i M10 Starting Issue

boxerulez

///Member
Fordkoppie said:
boxerulez said:
How do you get 0 on the dizzy?

Ive only done that with the beetle using testlight.

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With a timinglight while engine is running

Sooo


Disconnect vacuum to dizzy...and plug it of course

Timing light on bellhousing peekhole...

Line up the ball or the z marking with centre of hole?

My flywheel has a "O Z" where the others have a "l"





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Fordkoppie

///Member
I dont know the M10's bellhousing peekhole, but all the other BMWs i have ever seen have the O l T on the crank pulley in front. Line up the l with the marker on the timing cover.
 

boxerulez

///Member
There is no markings on any pulleys of mine. On flywheel I found marking that indictes "OI" and one "OZ"

Car runs like shit at the first set it to the oz for more power... that is also where it was timed by me previously and had no positive effect on starting.

I opened the AFM and that is still in good nick. Not worn through the carbon track at all.

I unplugged ICV and blocked the hoses off just to test. Made starting even more difficult.

Checked ECU connectors as well as all other connectors like iCU AFM and earths... they all seem good clean and not corroded.

I am at a loss of ideas once again.

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GPGrobler

///Member
Getting back to the fuelling, does the car have a strong fuel smell when trying to start it in the morning? I am asking because these cars should not have any strong fuel smell because the are fuel injected.
 

boxerulez

///Member
GPGrobler said:
Getting back to the fuelling, does the car have a strong fuel smell when trying to start it in the morning? I am asking because these cars should not have any strong fuel smell because the are fuel injected.



It does only for about 10 seconds after starting up. Which makes me doubt my spark however the spark is good?

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boxerulez

///Member
Ok. I neglected to mention ...

When I start cranking for just a split second it sounds like it will explode into healthy life. Then it doesnt. Cranking slows slightly and then eventually it stumbles into life. There has been now 6 occasions where it actually starts immediately. But the rest of the time the same.

Could this be the starter????

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boxerulez

///Member
Removed plugs cold. Not wet.

Removed injectors. Set them up on fuel rail externally to test. They are not leaking. The pattern is coning when they inject so all seems fine there.

Assembled everything again.

Fired straight up.

Now waiting for her to cool down again to test again.

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ters

New member
boxerulez said:
Ok. I neglected to mention ...

When I start cranking for just a split second it sounds like it will explode into healthy life. Then it doesnt. Cranking slows slightly and then eventually it stumbles into life. There has been now 6 occasions where it actually starts immediately. But the rest of the time the same.

Could this be the starter????

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Your E30 is giving you a hard time hey? May sound crazy.... have you changed the battery? Sounds as if the battery suffers supplying cold start amps. Starters take a lot of amps to start. Vehicles with electronic ignitions rely on battery power to "initiate" firing. Once the engine is warm, the starter can turn the engine easy, and does not require all amps.

Also undo all electrical connectors, spray with electrical contact cleaner.

Ters.
 

boxerulez

///Member
ters said:
boxerulez said:
Ok. I neglected to mention ...

When I start cranking for just a split second it sounds like it will explode into healthy life. Then it doesnt. Cranking slows slightly and then eventually it stumbles into life. There has been now 6 occasions where it actually starts immediately. But the rest of the time the same.

Could this be the starter????

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Your E30 is giving you a hard time hey? May sound crazy.... have you changed the battery? Sounds as if the battery suffers supplying cold start amps. Starters take a lot of amps to start. Vehicles with electronic ignitions rely on battery power to "initiate" firing. Once the engine is warm, the starter can turn the engine easy, and does not require all amps.

Also undo all electrical connectors, spray with electrical contact cleaner.

Ters.

Battery was my first fix. Come payday I want to replace all earth straps and do the connectors with elektrokleen.

I found one of the injectors had some corrosion on the connector but cleaned it up and it made no difference.

I did a cold start test earlier and it is still the same. Hard start. Subsequent starts are immediate.

I also added some Wynns Charge since the last test. Compression was at 149-150 between the 4 cylinders. Is this within tolerance for 160 000km on an M10?

I just added the Charge to increase compression a little.

So then if the starter is bad, would it also struggle to start car cold but start it easier when everything is warm and lubed up?

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GPGrobler

///Member
Yes, the starter can give you a problem when cold or hot depending on the type of problem, mine had fine cold starts, but sometimes refused to crank the engine when it has warmed up.
 

ters

New member
boxerulez said:
Compression was at 149-150 between the 4 cylinders. Is this within tolerance for 160 000km on an M10?
I just added the Charge to increase compression a little.
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The compression test figures seems fine, good news is that the numbers are identical all across the board.

Please do not see the following remark in a negative....: Although you seem capable of operating a wrench, get a professional to physically do a once-over on all possible scenarios. Googling/Key-board guessing is difficult if you are not physically involved.... In which town/city do you stay?

You have checked the Airflow meter, but got around to testing with another as Fordkoppie suggested?

Unfortunately the is no magical additives to cure any problematic engine, frequent services/oil changes will have a more positive effect on your vehicles performance and longevity.

Ters.
 

boxerulez

///Member
ters said:
boxerulez said:
Compression was at 149-150 between the 4 cylinders. Is this within tolerance for 160 000km on an M10?
I just added the Charge to increase compression a little.
Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk

The compression test figures seems fine, good news is that the numbers are identical all across the board.

Please do not see the following remark in a negative....: Although you seem capable of operating a wrench, get a professional to physically do a once-over on all possible scenarios. Googling/Key-board guessing is difficult if you are not physically involved.... In which town/city do you stay?

You have checked the Airflow meter, but got around to testing with another as Fordkoppie suggested?

Unfortunately the is no magical additives to cure any problematic engine, frequent services/oil changes will have a more positive effect on your vehicles performance and longevity.

Ters.

No M10s around here.

I am in East London. I am in a bit of a broke space right now. Was thinking of taking the car in to Kaz in Braelynn as soon as I have some cashflow again. 1st choice would be winmac but since Byron is not there anymore it is pointless. Their head mechanic is a Diesel Mechanic...



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boxerulez

///Member
ters said:
boxerulez said:
Compression was at 149-150 between the 4 cylinders. Is this within tolerance for 160 000km on an M10?
I just added the Charge to increase compression a little.
Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk

The compression test figures seems fine, good news is that the numbers are identical all across the board.

Please do not see the following remark in a negative....: Although you seem capable of operating a wrench, get a professional to physically do a once-over on all possible scenarios. Googling/Key-board guessing is difficult if you are not physically involved.... In which town/city do you stay?

You have checked the Airflow meter, but got around to testing with another as Fordkoppie suggested?

Unfortunately the is no magical additives to cure any problematic engine, frequent services/oil changes will have a more positive effect on your vehicles performance and longevity.

Ters.

And no I have not been able to test with another AFM. Dont know of anyone with an M10. Just M40s around here and then 325s...

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boxerulez

///Member
ters said:
boxerulez said:
Compression was at 149-150 between the 4 cylinders. Is this within tolerance for 160 000km on an M10?
I just added the Charge to increase compression a little.
Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk

The compression test figures seems fine, good news is that the numbers are identical all across the board.

Please do not see the following remark in a negative....: Although you seem capable of operating a wrench, get a professional to physically do a once-over on all possible scenarios. Googling/Key-board guessing is difficult if you are not physically involved.... In which town/city do you stay?

You have checked the Airflow meter, but got around to testing with another as Fordkoppie suggested?

Unfortunately the is no magical additives to cure any problematic engine, frequent services/oil changes will have a more positive effect on your vehicles performance and longevity.

Ters.

Soooo

I overdosed with Valve Ease yesterday... went for a 100km run. Parked the car.

This morning saw a great improvement. 2 seconds of crank and she burst into life.

Tested her at 09h00 with immediate success.

Tested again at 10h15 still fired up immediately.

It seems the valve ease did something right.



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boxerulez

///Member
I cannot believe it.

Consistent cold starts 5 times today...

This is heaven!

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boxerulez

///Member
ters said:
boxerulez said:
Compression was at 149-150 between the 4 cylinders. Is this within tolerance for 160 000km on an M10?
I just added the Charge to increase compression a little.
Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk

The compression test figures seems fine, good news is that the numbers are identical all across the board.

Please do not see the following remark in a negative....: Although you seem capable of operating a wrench, get a professional to physically do a once-over on all possible scenarios. Googling/Key-board guessing is difficult if you are not physically involved.... In which town/city do you stay?

You have checked the Airflow meter, but got around to testing with another as Fordkoppie suggested?

Unfortunately the is no magical additives to cure any problematic engine, frequent services/oil changes will have a more positive effect on your vehicles performance and longevity.

Ters.

Guys

Thanks for all your help.

It's been 5 days of 1turn starts. Today I changed the oil to get rid the charge I added and any fuel that might have dripped down thanks to the excessive cranking on start.

It was kind of thin and after adding the charge it discoloured quickly so I just thought dump some fresh GTX in there.

Its super smooth now. No misfires. No popping from the muffler. Most importantly immediate starts. Allround.




GPGrobler said:
Yes, the starter can give you a problem when cold or hot depending on the type of problem, mine had fine cold starts, but sometimes refused to crank the engine when it has warmed up.




Fordkoppie said:
I dont know the M10's bellhousing peekhole, but all the other BMWs i have ever seen have the O l T on the crank pulley in front. Line up the l with the marker on the timing cover.



- sent from my DeLorean Time Machine
 

GPGrobler

///Member
Sorry for the "Necro Post" - My e30 1989 318i now totally refuses to start. Can the main relay be problematic causing it not to start at all? It seems to me as if there is no spark.

How long does an ignition coil last, and will a faulty ignition coil cause intermittent starting problems, or does it just fail at once and that's it, no more starting? How do I test the coil, I really do not want to electrocute myself doing it.

Thanks in advance for the help.
 
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