Does the M3 e46 05/06 give trouble?

[zmohsinz]

Hello M3 fanatics! I am in the market for the legendary M3 e46 05/06 conv. but need advice please. The tin sound drives me crazy There are many with over 100 000km on the clock for say R220k-R260k. Obviously there will be no motorplan but once bought, what can I do for safety against heavy maintenance bills etc. Do these cars have a habit on every now and then packing up with something? I've read the buyers guide to buying an M3 here, but I need some thorough advice from you guys. What after warranty expires plans are there, or service plans and possible prices please. Let me know if you guys have some experience of the costs. I'll appreciate any advice.

 

[444YYY]

05/06 are the late models and are the ones to get!
If the previous owner warmed up the oil before driving spiritedly. It's a no brainer.
The aftermarket warranties don't cover enough. Save cash aside for emergencies if need be. That is the General rule that should be applied when owning a high performance car. You may find you may never need it, but have it just in case!
Many happy miles!!

 

[Andy1GP]

Simple answer.

1. Do you want to own one? : Yes

2. Should you own one? : Yes

There are people in the community who can take really good care of these cars, more so than any bmw dealer can. It won't be cheap but the car will be in immaculate condition mechanically.

Things of concern are

1. Main bearings

2. Subframe cracking

3. Oil pump disc

Nice to have done things are

1. Valve clearances

2. Vanos seals

3. Rattle kit

Other than that it's simple e46 related items.

The E46 has been so well documented globally by forums that there is hardly any surprises with these cars anymore. Just know what you're getting yourself into if you buy a lemon.

Rather pay a premium for a well cared for one and save in the long run.

 

[zmohsinz]

Simple answer.

1. Do you want to own one? : Yes

2. Should you own one? : Yes

There are people in the community who can take really good care of these cars, more so than any bmw dealer can. It won't be cheap but the car will be in immaculate condition mechanically.

Things of concern are

1. Main bearings

2. Subframe cracking

3. Oil pump disc

Nice to have done things are

1. Valve clearances

2. Vanos seals

3. Rattle kit

Other than that it's simple e46 related items.

The E46 has been so well documented globally by forums that there is hardly any surprises with these cars anymore. Just know what you're getting yourself into if you buy a lemon.

Rather pay a premium for a well cared for one and save in the long run.

answer
thanks Andy. As a safety net, what plans are out in the market that would be a good one to go for For the m3 specifically?

Say I see one I like at a dealer, I guess they would not do all those tests unless I actually am going to buy the car?

 

[RAArmstrong]

Best plan is to put some money in a savings account each month

 

[Tehwalleth]

Best advice i can ever give you.

Get it assessed by someone what knows their shit, not some useless AA POS worthless test.

- Get the subframe checked. If it's cracked walk way way to much money to put right and the dealer won't come down that much on the price.
- Get the front balljoints checked (hideously expensive to replace)
- Get a compression test.
- Get the oil tested.
- Have a look at the PS lines, they seem to start perishing and it's a 6-8K part from BMW.
- Have a good look at the cooling system.
- Get the Mplan history pulled and ask for associated invoices to see how complete the inspection II was done regarding gearbox/diff oils, fuel filters and valve clearances.
- You are buying a cabrio. Get a stopwatch if the roof takes longer than 20 sec to open something is wrong. It is rather noisy in operation so don't worry that much about the noises.
- Inspect the roof for birdshit stains or wrinkles as well as worn fabric ,lose C pillars, as well as discoloration.
- BMW bluetooth ULF's are duds, make sure you can pair your phone or get 5K off since you will be replacing the ULF modue, it's dead easy to DIY once you have the part.
- Forget the 05-06 find the cleanest/best documented model from the 03 up facelift.

When you buy one you get the bearings replaced immediately, as well as the vanos sorted. Should already save you a lot of future pain

Other than that it is a lovely piece of kit. Put 20-30K away yearly for general upkeep and smile away.

And one more thing, fit the Koni adjustable shocks at the front, the difference is day and night. Rears you can just fit normal sports.

 

[Xack]

Best advice i can ever give you.

Get it assessed by someone what knows their shit, not some useless AA POS worthless test.

- Get the subframe checked. If it's cracked walk way way to much money to put right and the dealer won't come down that much on the price.
- Get the front balljoints checked (hideously expensive to replace)
- Get a compression test.
- Get the oil tested.
- Have a look at the PS lines, they seem to start perishing and it's a 6-8K part from BMW.
- Have a good look at the cooling system.
- Get the Mplan history pulled and ask for associated invoices to see how complete the inspection II was done regarding gearbox/diff oils, fuel filters and valve clearances.
- You are buying a cabrio. Get a stopwatch if the roof takes longer than 20 sec to open something is wrong. It is rather noisy in operation so don't worry that much about the noises.
- Inspect the roof for birdshit stains or wrinkles as well as worn fabric ,lose C pillars, as well as discoloration.
- BMW bluetooth ULF's are duds, make sure you can pair your phone or get 5K off since you will be replacing the ULF modue, it's dead easy to DIY once you have the part.
- Forget the 05-06 find the cleanest/best documented model from the 03 up facelift.

When you buy one you get the bearings replaced immediately, as well as the vanos sorted. Should already save you a lot of future pain

Other than that it is a lovely piece of kit. Put 20-30K away yearly for general upkeep and smile away.

And one more thing, fit the Koni adjustable shocks at the front, the difference is day and night. Rears you can just fit normal sports.

What he said

 

[e46monk3y]

Manual not smg

 

[Crash_Nemesis]

Don't forget to supercharge it....

:fencelook:

Sorry... I had to.

 

[zmohsinz]

Best advice i can ever give you.

Get it assessed by someone what knows their shit, not some useless AA POS worthless test.

- Get the subframe checked. If it's cracked walk way way to much money to put right and the dealer won't come down that much on the price.
- Get the front balljoints checked (hideously expensive to replace)
- Get a compression test.
- Get the oil tested.
- Have a look at the PS lines, they seem to start perishing and it's a 6-8K part from BMW.
- Have a good look at the cooling system.
- Get the Mplan history pulled and ask for associated invoices to see how complete the inspection II was done regarding gearbox/diff oils, fuel filters and valve clearances.
- You are buying a cabrio. Get a stopwatch if the roof takes longer than 20 sec to open something is wrong. It is rather noisy in operation so don't worry that much about the noises.
- Inspect the roof for birdshit stains or wrinkles as well as worn fabric ,lose C pillars, as well as discoloration.
- BMW bluetooth ULF's are duds, make sure you can pair your phone or get 5K off since you will be replacing the ULF modue, it's dead easy to DIY once you have the part.
- Forget the 05-06 find the cleanest/best documented model from the 03 up facelift.

When you buy one you get the bearings replaced immediately, as well as the vanos sorted. Should already save you a lot of future pain

Other than that it is a lovely piece of kit. Put 20-30K away yearly for general upkeep and smile away.

And one more thing, fit the Koni adjustable shocks at the front, the difference is day and night. Rears you can just fit normal sports.

Excellent answer! This is tops. 20K to 30K is quite a bit but I guess it's all about, like you say, the documentation and condition. do you know about any service/ warranty plan out there (hheard about hollard, 360) that will cover me? Secondly, if a car is at a dealer how do i go about saying hey I need to check a-z Whilst on the floor?

 

[RAArmstrong]

Aftermarket plans are a waste. They generally work on a sliding scale based on age or mileage. So at this age they'll cover x% of the replacement. IMHO not worth it

 

[DieselFan]

Best advice i can ever give you.

Get it assessed by someone what knows their shit, not some useless AA POS worthless test.

- Get the subframe checked. If it's cracked walk way way to much money to put right and the dealer won't come down that much on the price.
- Get the front balljoints checked (hideously expensive to replace)
- Get a compression test.
- Get the oil tested.
- Have a look at the PS lines, they seem to start perishing and it's a 6-8K part from BMW.
- Have a good look at the cooling system.
- Get the Mplan history pulled and ask for associated invoices to see how complete the inspection II was done regarding gearbox/diff oils, fuel filters and valve clearances.
- You are buying a cabrio. Get a stopwatch if the roof takes longer than 20 sec to open something is wrong. It is rather noisy in operation so don't worry that much about the noises.
- Inspect the roof for birdshit stains or wrinkles as well as worn fabric ,lose C pillars, as well as discoloration.
- BMW bluetooth ULF's are duds, make sure you can pair your phone or get 5K off since you will be replacing the ULF modue, it's dead easy to DIY once you have the part.
- Forget the 05-06 find the cleanest/best documented model from the 03 up facelift.

When you buy one you get the bearings replaced immediately, as well as the vanos sorted. Should already save you a lot of future pain

Other than that it is a lovely piece of kit. Put 20-30K away yearly for general upkeep and smile away.

And one more thing, fit the Koni adjustable shocks at the front, the difference is day and night. Rears you can just fit normal sports.

Excellent answer! This is tops. 20K to 30K is quite a bit but I guess it's all about, like you say, the documentation and condition. do you know about any service/ warranty plan out there (hheard about hollard, 360) that will cover me? Secondly, if a car is at a dealer how do i go about saying hey I need to check a-z Whilst on the floor?

You tell them you want the car inspected by your mechanic or a trusted mechanic who knows what he's looking for, ask if they want you to take the car there or if they would prefer. If neither find another car.

 

[Tehwalleth]

Best advice i can ever give you.

Get it assessed by someone what knows their shit, not some useless AA POS worthless test.

- Get the subframe checked. If it's cracked walk way way to much money to put right and the dealer won't come down that much on the price.
- Get the front balljoints checked (hideously expensive to replace)
- Get a compression test.
- Get the oil tested.
- Have a look at the PS lines, they seem to start perishing and it's a 6-8K part from BMW.
- Have a good look at the cooling system.
- Get the Mplan history pulled and ask for associated invoices to see how complete the inspection II was done regarding gearbox/diff oils, fuel filters and valve clearances.
- You are buying a cabrio. Get a stopwatch if the roof takes longer than 20 sec to open something is wrong. It is rather noisy in operation so don't worry that much about the noises.
- Inspect the roof for birdshit stains or wrinkles as well as worn fabric ,lose C pillars, as well as discoloration.
- BMW bluetooth ULF's are duds, make sure you can pair your phone or get 5K off since you will be replacing the ULF modue, it's dead easy to DIY once you have the part.
- Forget the 05-06 find the cleanest/best documented model from the 03 up facelift.

When you buy one you get the bearings replaced immediately, as well as the vanos sorted. Should already save you a lot of future pain

Other than that it is a lovely piece of kit. Put 20-30K away yearly for general upkeep and smile away.

And one more thing, fit the Koni adjustable shocks at the front, the difference is day and night. Rears you can just fit normal sports.

Excellent answer! This is tops. 20K to 30K is quite a bit but I guess it's all about, like you say, the documentation and condition. do you know about any service/ warranty plan out there (hheard about hollard, 360) that will cover me? Secondly, if a car is at a dealer how do i go about saying hey I need to check a-z Whilst on the floor?

Forget service plans. Find a decent indy in your area. Ask on the forum who in your area is recommended. Ensure they use BMW filters allround.

Warranty is a WOTFAM in the M3's case. The warranty won't even cover the labour on the jobs you need a warranty for.

Again depending on your area tell them you want the car sent to XXX for assessment. If they refuse or claim the AA one is sufficient walk away.

20-30K is very reasonable. But you should perhaps familiarize yourself with the costs of the oil/tyres/brakes etc.

 

[Crash_Nemesis]

Change oil every 10 000km. Consider using Liqui Moly 10w60, many M3 users have moved over to this oil, including myself and are very happy.

Do not rape the car right from cold start. Warm the oil up before any revving past 4000rpm.

Check with BMW that the car has indeed done bearing recall if it is 03 model or older.

Also, depending on the age of the engine, consider doing Vac coated bearings and uprated oil pump for peace of mind.

Listen for a ticking noise on the engine. If the sound is present, the engine will require valve clearances to be done. This happens to ALL e46 M3's. I also suggest getting a guarantee on the work being done, as my car went to Savspeed for valve clearances and they botched the job. Valve clearances or valve shimming, is very straight forward, but can result in massive failure if the incorrect sized shims are placed into the engine. This is what happened to my car and this resulted in my car dropping an exhaust valve in cylinder 6 two days later. Savspeed refused to compensate me for the damages. I had replace one cylinder, one piston and a new cylinder Head. This job was also botched and required me to eventually seek out a full engine rebuild by a member on this forum. Thankfully, the car is running now and back where she belongs. So make sure you get a guarantee on the work being done.

Check rear subframe for cracks. Go to http://www.redish-motorsport.com/ and watch their videos on how to check for cracks.

The convertible was considered to be less prone to these subframe cracks, but it can still be possible.

When test driving the car, place it into 6th gear going up a gentle hill and accelerate. If the car does slowly increase speed, she is healthy. If not, you may want to look at Vanos seals etc. Speak to A1exander on the forum about this test.

Tyres for these cars are not cheap if you want to keep the car at peak performance.

I can speak from experience in regards to all the above steps. Good luck. The e46 M3 really is an amazing car, and as much as all the above sounds daunting and scary, you need only be wary of what may happen. Abusing the car and not respecting the fact that it requires a warmed up engine before fast driving and that the rear subframe be looked after, will result in these problems appearing.

 

[Tehwalleth]

.

Tyres for these cars are not cheap if you want to keep the car at peak performance.

Just finding the right rear size is a daunting task in itself. 255/40 is hard to find so you end up with tons of cars on 255/35's with the incorrect weight rating.

 

[Maljan]

Manual not smg

I second that. The SMG just seems too complicated for peace of mind.

 

[Xack]

Mine pull reasonably strong in 6th gear low revs and still return 7.2l/100km on the highway, but its not smooth as i suspect it should be, so vanos gonna get some attention.