Disa pin ingestion

Zound

///Member
Ever wanted to know what happens when your DISA/Resonance flap pin falls out and is ingested by your engine?

I'll explain exactly what happens.

If you have read my 330i thread you will know that I attempted to fix my failed DISA. (I'm calling it a DISA for simplicity, although it is actually a resonance flap)

The hex shaft had been completely worn out and thus the flap was never in a controlled position. I decided to epoxy the flap to the worn out shaft.

After about a month of driving I decided to see whether my repair had been successful. I quickly pulled the airbox and removed the DISA. To my surprise, everything looked fine. The flap was still held firmly in place, and the component operated fine. Additionally, the pin was also flush with the mounting surface.

I was chuffed with the result and continued to put the car back together.

About a week later, driving back from a 21st at about 2am, doing about 40km/h in the Irene area, my car suddenly stutters and throws an engine warning light. I immediately switch off the engine and coast for about 400m to a safe zone for inspection. Opened the bonnet to look for any obvious problems, checked underneath the car for oil, fuel or any sign of component failure.

At that point I was low on fuel, had about 50km left in the tank, and having had previous problems with fuel starvation when fuel was low I immediately thought it was fuel filter or fuel pump letting go.

I started the engine again to see if the problem would re-appear and immediately the hesitation had become a full blown misfire. Switched engine off and pulled out my bluetooth OBD2 dongle and ran the TORQUE application on my phone.

Scanned for errors/fault codes and came up with misfire on cylinder 5 and a MAF/Mass Air volume issue. Called Dad for a tow.

Next morning pulled DISA immediately, fearing the worst. Guess what, Pin pissing. I then cursed, stomped my feet, and banged my head for about 10 minutes knowing what had just happened to my beloved car.

Tears running down my face I got stuck into it. Pulled spark plug from cylinder 5 and the thing was completely disfigured. Then pulled Air intake manifold and the tappet cover and valve cover gasket.

Then used a long necked flexible shaft with magnet at the end to fish out the contents of cylinder 5. Two mashed and disfigured pieces were retrieved.

Performed a leak-down test with surprisingly no noticeable air leakage from the intake or exhaust valves, done at 3 bar.

Then did a compression test and the damage was revealed. All cylinders at 10.5 but the battle scarred cylinder 5 was sitting at 8.5.

Have put the car back together, with a new spark plug and a temporary DISA fix with a self tapping screw. Will assess drivability for now so to determine how to or whether to proceed with further repairs.

Have run the car once and monitored the smooth running values for the damaged cylinder. The ECU seems to be adjusting sufficiently to allow the car to operate with no substantial hiccups/hesitations/backfires or associated symptoms. Power delivery seems acceptable for now.

Will continue to monitor via the OBD2 diagnostics port as well as monitoring oil and fuel consumption.

Pictures to follow.
 

Bayn46

Active member
Sorry to hear, it's always terrible when these things happen (that heart sinking moment).

This was part of the reason why I opted to get a new unit instead of the repair kit as I wasn't sure how damaged the component was.

The car will run perfectly fine without the flap in place (obviously the main unit still needs to be attached).

Good luck bud :thumbs:
 

Coisman

Administrator
Staff member
...and this exactly why I spent the money and replaced mine as soon as I saw it was loose...

Good luck buddy. :blueCry:
 

Zound

///Member
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Zound

///Member
The car is driving surprisingly well after what it has gone through.

Next step is a DISA repair/upgrade kit from German Auto Solutions or I6Automotive. The kit design eliminates the pin entirely meaning this cannot happen again.

I need to start saving my pennies and looking at a real solution for the damaged cylinder and associated components. Since the car smokes a tiny bit at idle, I believe the car was once overheated and thus coolant is leaking through and being expelled by the exhaust.

Obviously the car is going to need headwork. Most likely valves and resurfacing the head.

Suggestions and/or comments?
 

Zound

///Member
Coisman said:
I paid R2400 for a new unit at Goldwagen about 3 months ago

That's a good price as I have heard that they can go for as much as R3500. However, I still believe the stock design is poor and dangerous. So as a student with limited budget I am a lot more inclined to get the 80$ repair kit that removes the pin and prevents what I have just encountered. On a side note, I have tested the vacuum and diaphragm operation, which appears to be in working condition. The major failure on these components is the wearing on the hex shaft, so I don't think replacement as opposed to repair, is the most cost effective solution.
 

KPM3_30

Moderator
Staff member
Zound said:
The car is driving surprisingly well after what it has gone through.

Next step is a DISA repair/upgrade kit from German Auto Solutions or I6Automotive. The kit design eliminates the pin entirely meaning this cannot happen again.

I need to start saving my pennies and looking at a real solution for the damaged cylinder and associated components. Since the car smokes a tiny bit at idle, I believe the car was once overheated and thus coolant is leaking through and being expelled by the exhaust.

Obviously the car is going to need headwork. Most likely valves and resurfacing the head.

Suggestions and/or comments?

I actually bought the repair kit from I6Automotive last year in March I think it was. Did the repair and have been running since then. Will open the unit up and have a look. Sorry about this unfortunate incident :cry:
 
When I saw that mine was buggered, I was quoted R4000 for a replacement from the Dealers, pricing is "net" on this item.

I have a mate in Germany, he shipped me one, around R2000.
 

Coisman

Administrator
Staff member
Mine was not just a loose flap, but the one bladder of the vacuum diaphragm was shot, so yea, service kit wouldn't have helped.
 

Zound

///Member
Step 1- Head Gasket DIY

Have watched the 5 day process this guy takes. I am feeling brave...

He mentions that the hardest part in his opinion was the intake manifold, which I have removed and re-installed 3 times now. So perhaps this is possible...

The biggest problem at the moment is the "special" tools required.

"Camshafts lock, timing chain tensioner, flywheel lock, and there's an optional camgear rotation tool"

I can only assume these are expensive tools, and since I don't plan on doing Head Gaskets often, it would be far from an investment on my part.

The best option would be to rent the tools, but I don't know of any company offering rental of such specialised tools.

Any comments regarding the glass-pane sanding method to resurface the block?

The cost savings would be phenomenal. I believe a job like this would cost me under 3k but having an independent mechanic would cost me between 10 and 20k?

Thoughts?
 
Whist you have intake off do the two plastic cooling pipes that fit into the back of the water pump.

Be sad to finish this job, and then cook the engine.
 

Pho3niX90

///Member
I also imported the upgrade kit, comes with an aluminum flap, and the pin is changed into a rod that screws into the lower "hex" part. Think I still have a thread somewhere on it, it's an amazing kit and recommend it to all e46 owners. The misfire is caused by the flap though, not the pin falling into the cylinder (but might have obviously made it worse).
 

Zound

///Member
Pho3niX90 said:
I also imported the upgrade kit, comes with an aluminum flap, and the pin is changed into a rod that screws into the lower "hex" part. Think I still have a thread somewhere on it, it's an amazing kit and recommend it to all e46 owners. The misfire is caused by the flap though, not the pin falling into the cylinder (but might have obviously made it worse).

I definitely want to get one of those kits!

I'm not sure I agree with you on the misfire though, when the pin became dislodged the flap was still attached to the shaft (since I epoxied it). Additionally the flap is not capable of causing a misfire in a certain cylinder. To be quite honest, the epoxy is so strong that the DISA could most probably run fine without the pin, but there would be flex on the shaft without the pin. When the pin falls into the cylinder, it collides with valves, piston, bore and spark plug.The spark plug ends are weak and were immediately bent such that the spark plug would short. That is what causes the misfire.
 

Pho3niX90

///Member
Zound said:
Pho3niX90 said:
I also imported the upgrade kit, comes with an aluminum flap, and the pin is changed into a rod that screws into the lower "hex" part. Think I still have a thread somewhere on it, it's an amazing kit and recommend it to all e46 owners. The misfire is caused by the flap though, not the pin falling into the cylinder (but might have obviously made it worse).

I definitely want to get one of those kits!

I'm not sure I agree with you on the misfire though, when the pin became dislodged the flap was still attached to the shaft (since I epoxied it). Additionally the flap is not capable of causing a misfire in a certain cylinder. To be quite honest, the epoxy is so strong that the DISA could most probably run fine without the pin, but there would be flex on the shaft without the pin. When the pin falls into the cylinder, it collides with valves, piston, bore and spark plug.The spark plug ends are weak and were immediately bent such that the spark plug would short. That is what causes the misfire.

Makes sense, when my flap came loose it caused random misfires at idle though.
 
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