Castrol GTX high mileage

[tai88]

Just want to find out if anyone has anything bad to say about GTX high mileage before I put it in my car. Backdrop is that my car seams to need new valve stem seals, and gtx apparently has conditioners to soften seals and prevent leaks. I know I should just do the seals, but I don't have that kinda cash laying around right now..

Any opinions will be appreciated. :thumbs:

 

[rick540]

I think it will work just fine, but because it's a thicker oil make sure you dont rev over 3000 rpm for the first 10 min of the drive till the oil is properly hot.

Also as it's mineral, stick to 5000Km changes and then all should be cool.

 

[tai88]

Ok cool. now if it does what they say it does(conditioner for seals) would it be safe to switch back to normal 5w30 synthetic (because seals are now softened) when 5000k is up?

 

[rick540]

Ok cool. now if it does what they say it does(conditioner for seals) would it be safe to switch back to normal 5w30 synthetic (because seals are now softened) when 5000k is up?

Nah, because old seals are old seals and the additive needs to be ever present to soften them. Older engines have bigger clearances which actually improves lubrication, so the oil will be about the same as running a new engine with the 5W30

 

[Yuvan]

Good Oil, nothing bad to say!

 

[Carbon M3]

Are you currently using 5W30?

The high mileage is extremly thick, 25W60 if I remember correctly, you will notice this on start up, maybe use a slighty thicker oil first before going to High mileage.

Whats the milage on your car at the moment.

 

[BMW M]

I run it in my restored 1976 230.4 Merc with around 450 000km on the clock and it works great, like Rick said, just let it warm up a bit before you give it to much stick. Great oil IMO

:thumbs:

 

[Funky Toyz]

Is using a non synthetic oil recommended. Won't this cause damage to other parts?

I've had to replace my Valvetronic controller on the N46 as a result of throwing in even a semi sythentic oil into the car.

 

[Raybimmer]

The e36 is an older design with larger working tolerances in the engine . Putting a thin oil like 5w-30 would most likely cause oil usage and smoking .The normal 20w-50 was normally ok here , the oil took a while to warm up ( 20w ) and was thicker ( 50w ) at operating temperatures .
Later model cars are more suited to synthetic oils which are normally of a higher quality with good viscosity .
Viscosity is resistance to flow , so a good flow when cold and additive packs for cleaning etc . are found in good oils .

 

[Funky Toyz]

The e36 is an older design with larger working tolerances in the engine . Putting a thin oil like 5w-30 would most likely cause oil usage and smoking .The normal 20w-50 was normally ok here , the oil took a while to warm up ( 20w ) and was thicker ( 50w ) at operating temperatures .
Later model cars are more suited to synthetic oils which are normally of a higher quality with good viscosity .
Viscosity is resistance to flow , so a good flow when cold and additive packs for cleaning etc . are found in good oils .

I'm under the impression that tai88 drives an E46 with the N42 4 pot motor which is basically bolt for bolt the same as the N46?

 

[rick540]

The e36 is an older design with larger working tolerances in the engine . Putting a thin oil like 5w-30 would most likely cause oil usage and smoking .The normal 20w-50 was normally ok here , the oil took a while to warm up ( 20w ) and was thicker ( 50w ) at operating temperatures .
Later model cars are more suited to synthetic oils which are normally of a higher quality with good viscosity .
Viscosity is resistance to flow , so a good flow when cold and additive packs for cleaning etc . are found in good oils .

I'm under the impression that tai88 drives an E46 with the N42 4 pot motor which is basically bolt for bolt the same as the N46?

On engines that have had a long production run over several years dont look at the type of engine, but rather the year of manufacture.

Manufacturers really tightened up tolerances even year to year as the production machinery improved.

 

[Funky Toyz]

The e36 is an older design with larger working tolerances in the engine . Putting a thin oil like 5w-30 would most likely cause oil usage and smoking .The normal 20w-50 was normally ok here , the oil took a while to warm up ( 20w ) and was thicker ( 50w ) at operating temperatures .
Later model cars are more suited to synthetic oils which are normally of a higher quality with good viscosity .
Viscosity is resistance to flow , so a good flow when cold and additive packs for cleaning etc . are found in good oils .

I'm under the impression that tai88 drives an E46 with the N42 4 pot motor which is basically bolt for bolt the same as the N46?

On engines that have had a long production run over several years dont look at the type of engine, but rather the year of manufacture.

Manufacturers really tightened up tolerances even year to year as the production machinery improved.

Ok cool , now I'm understanding :thumbs:

Thnx Rick.

 

[tai88]

Are you currently using 5W30?

The high mileage is extremly thick, 25W60 if I remember correctly, you will notice this on start up, maybe use a slighty thicker oil first before going to High mileage.

Whats the milage on your car at the moment.

Yes I'm using shell 5w30.. My N42B20 2002 build engine has 260000km on the clock. As far as I know you can get GTX 10w 40 high mileage oil.

Then on the synthetic vs mineral/multigrade oil issue... would you recomend an engine flush to remove deposits then topup with GTX. Just to start then engine on a clean slate.. I dont want to add oil that will cause sludge if the car already has sludge in it.. I am really not in the mood to replace my valvetronic.

Edit.. I think the N42 has been improved a lot then suceeded by the N46. so unfortunetly I have an early build of that engine.

EDIT : Does anyone here recommend an engine flush-anybody have problems after a flush.

 

[andrewbuch]

Why not then run shell helix Hx7 ? Its 10w40 ?

 

[Carbon M3]

+1 on the helix.

Instead of using engine flush, give the car a nice run, drain the oil, then take of the sump, clean out the sump and the pickup seive and you sorted.

 

[tai88]

I want to use GTX because "apparently" it has conditioners to soften my valve stem seal. as it is pluming blue smoke from the exhaust. is there a synthetic shell oil with "conditioners" :fencelook:

---

+1 on the helix.

Instead of using engine flush, give the car a nice run, drain the oil, then take of the sump, clean out the sump and the pickup seive and you sorted.

I've just read up on this, it seems I will need to lift the engine to get the sump out?! :nonono: I don't have a engine lift or the know how to do this.. Is it true :fencelook:

Here's a guide I found for the N42----- Why is this guy fiddling with the fanbelt tensioner? or am I in the wrong place?

 

[Carbon M3]

Is it always smoking or just on start up?

Valve stem seals will cause it to smoke mainly on start up, I think maybe the oil is just too thin and is getting through, do a normal oil change to 10W40 and see if it improves

 

[tai88]

Is it always smoking or just on start up?

Valve stem seals will cause it to smoke mainly on start up, I think maybe the oil is just too thin and is getting through, do a normal oil change to 10W40 and see if it improves

No it's not always smoking.. it happens like once a week.. sometimes when the car is warm, and sometimes when the car is cold.

---

So since I'm already using helix 5w30 would I be able to just topup with helix 10w40 as the 5w30 burns out, Because that 5w30 I put in is still so fresh, I don't want to waste money like that :=):

 

[Sankekur]

It is better not to mix different grades of oil.