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Read the WELCOME ALL BMWFANATICS post.
Brake pads E46 325
- Thread starter akajee
- Start date
So I settled for the Ferodo @ R500 for the front (I was actually tired of shopping) and did not get anything for the rear (In hindsight it was a poor decision to a certain extend)
I got up early this morning and got to work
Tools:
17 Socket and Power bar/ Wheel Spanner
Trolley Jack
Tressels
Size 7 Allen Key/Socket (short length preferably so you can use it on the rear as well). I may just add that this is an odd size and you may not necessarily find them in some sets. I had to get this one separately for my Conquest.
Wratchet
Nice screw driver to leverage Piston or proper clamp.
Steel brush
Pliers
Procedure
1. Loosen all wheel nuts and jack the car up using the Trolley jack on the jack pad (You could any jack but I prefer the trolley.
2. Use the tressel to remove the jack. Generally I place a piece of wood to cushion the car on the tressel.
3. Remove the wheel (I started on the right hand side of the car)
4. Remove the brake fluid cap.
5. Using the Screw driver, you need to pry open the brake caliper from the side. I needed to do this because I do not have a clamp to push the piston back in so that the new brake pads can fit easily.
Be very careful not to damage your discs. It is not a difficult task if you do it correctly.
6. Remove the clips that keep the brake pads from rattling ( I dont know what they are called). I have seen that some companies also package new clips in the brake pads box but the Ferodos did not have new clips.
7. Remove the dust covers that cover the 2 Bolts. A medium size screw driver removes these very easily. Very little effort is required to remove them. One is on top and the other at the bottom.
8. Use the wratchet and the 7" Allen Key to remove the sliding bolts. Now the caliper and the brake pads can be removed very easily. Use the steel brush to clean the calipers and surrounding areas. Be careful not to damage any rubbers on the piston.
9. If you do have the clamp, now it the time to use it. Push open your caliper if you have not done so in step 5. It needs to be pushed back as far as possible. You will know when it cannot be pushed any further.
10. There are 2 pieces per side of brake pads, the inner and outer. The inner clips into the piston and the outer is the one you can see from the Rim. Fit the inner first and then the outer. I did not see a sensor on the right but there is one on the left (I think it was the sensor). I also think it needs to be replaced so any help in this dept will be great.
The sensor looks quite easy to replace though.It simply clicks in and out of the inner brake pad. I think I should have just replaced it. When compared to the rear, the front looks finished.
11. In reverse order, close up everything. Be sure to tighten up everything properly and ensure that all items touched are seated 100% correctly
12. Pump the brakes properly and check fluid levels.
13. Close the Brake Fluid lid.
14. Clean the inner rim properly so that you can see if there is any leakage (and it just looks good when it is clean :rollsmile: )
15. Take the car for a slow drive and go easy on the brakes so that it can 'fuse' in to the discs.
Judging from everything I seen, it appears that the brake kit is all ATE (calipers, etc).
I got up early this morning and got to work
Tools:
17 Socket and Power bar/ Wheel Spanner
Trolley Jack
Tressels
Size 7 Allen Key/Socket (short length preferably so you can use it on the rear as well). I may just add that this is an odd size and you may not necessarily find them in some sets. I had to get this one separately for my Conquest.
Wratchet
Nice screw driver to leverage Piston or proper clamp.
Steel brush
Pliers
Procedure
1. Loosen all wheel nuts and jack the car up using the Trolley jack on the jack pad (You could any jack but I prefer the trolley.
2. Use the tressel to remove the jack. Generally I place a piece of wood to cushion the car on the tressel.
3. Remove the wheel (I started on the right hand side of the car)
4. Remove the brake fluid cap.
5. Using the Screw driver, you need to pry open the brake caliper from the side. I needed to do this because I do not have a clamp to push the piston back in so that the new brake pads can fit easily.
Be very careful not to damage your discs. It is not a difficult task if you do it correctly.
6. Remove the clips that keep the brake pads from rattling ( I dont know what they are called). I have seen that some companies also package new clips in the brake pads box but the Ferodos did not have new clips.
7. Remove the dust covers that cover the 2 Bolts. A medium size screw driver removes these very easily. Very little effort is required to remove them. One is on top and the other at the bottom.
8. Use the wratchet and the 7" Allen Key to remove the sliding bolts. Now the caliper and the brake pads can be removed very easily. Use the steel brush to clean the calipers and surrounding areas. Be careful not to damage any rubbers on the piston.
9. If you do have the clamp, now it the time to use it. Push open your caliper if you have not done so in step 5. It needs to be pushed back as far as possible. You will know when it cannot be pushed any further.
10. There are 2 pieces per side of brake pads, the inner and outer. The inner clips into the piston and the outer is the one you can see from the Rim. Fit the inner first and then the outer. I did not see a sensor on the right but there is one on the left (I think it was the sensor). I also think it needs to be replaced so any help in this dept will be great.
The sensor looks quite easy to replace though.It simply clicks in and out of the inner brake pad. I think I should have just replaced it. When compared to the rear, the front looks finished.
11. In reverse order, close up everything. Be sure to tighten up everything properly and ensure that all items touched are seated 100% correctly
12. Pump the brakes properly and check fluid levels.
13. Close the Brake Fluid lid.
14. Clean the inner rim properly so that you can see if there is any leakage (and it just looks good when it is clean :rollsmile: )
15. Take the car for a slow drive and go easy on the brakes so that it can 'fuse' in to the discs.
Judging from everything I seen, it appears that the brake kit is all ATE (calipers, etc).
Charlie Brown
Member
Yip that sensor is done and will need to be replaced, they don't go orange and then red etc. Once they go orange, it's too late.
It can be done afterwards without removing the caliper. The clips only come from the agents and cost about R700 for the set.
Nice write up, let us know how the work and sound ?
It can be done afterwards without removing the caliper. The clips only come from the agents and cost about R700 for the set.
Nice write up, let us know how the work and sound ?
Iceman007
Active member
Good choice on Ferodo's. When I had my 2003 325i I had endless problems with ATE pads. Every 2000km my discs would be causing vibration. needless to say I wen through 2 sets of ATE discs and one set from Agents. It was an very expensive lesson. The ATE made very little dust and there was my problem they there compound was to hard and this causes bad heat transfer. So maybe it was a bad batch but since then it was Ferodo. I had to remove them in the end and replaced them with Ferodo pads and no further problems or squeals. Just remember your copper slip on back of pad
zippy320
Well-known member
Two brands I will never use again ( on my e46 ) Ferodo and ATE , they constantly destroyed my disks , On the E30 though , they worked pretty well .
On the E46 I used ATE , Ferodo, Some Spanish brand, Brembo , BMW pads and Now Textar ,I would have suggested you went for Textar , Its by far the best aftermarket pads Iv ever used , identical in behavior to the BMW pads ,The BMW pads had alot of dust as well , the Brembo had almost no dust. Even though there is alot from the textar pads but I wash my car often so it isnt much of an issue . I had constant squeaks and strange rattles with every other brand with the exception of the BMW pads, and these Textar brands , I paid R395 (I think) for the Textar from Autozone .. Planning on buying a few extra pairs of these pads . Dusty but I love them .
On the E46 I used ATE , Ferodo, Some Spanish brand, Brembo , BMW pads and Now Textar ,I would have suggested you went for Textar , Its by far the best aftermarket pads Iv ever used , identical in behavior to the BMW pads ,The BMW pads had alot of dust as well , the Brembo had almost no dust. Even though there is alot from the textar pads but I wash my car often so it isnt much of an issue . I had constant squeaks and strange rattles with every other brand with the exception of the BMW pads, and these Textar brands , I paid R395 (I think) for the Textar from Autozone .. Planning on buying a few extra pairs of these pads . Dusty but I love them .
Charlie Brown said:
Cool Thanks, BMW wants R270.00 for the sensor and I can get another one form G-Drive for app R120.00. Is it best to get the BMW or is there a better one to look at?
Brakes are cool, though there is a slight squeak when driving slow.
Gizmo said:
I can live with the break dust, my rims are generally grey....LOL
Unfortunately not. What is the rotor hat
Gizmo said:
Does anyone have a number for the Morano place where they sell the Textar. I am going to do the rear as well so I can try them.
BTW, G-Drive sells truktec and Bruce (G-Drive) says they are very good and hasn't had an issue. Has anyone used those brake pads before? Basically made in Germany and 'grey' branded due to license restrictions. BMW wants R871.11 for the rear pads.....hahah
Iceman007 said:
Copper slip?
zippy320
Well-known member
Imo all these sensors are the same , End of the day they all get destroyed in the same way , I paid R90 or less for this sensor from Goldwagen and I think about thes same from a place in Dbn called martins spares.
The Textar pads ones I purchased from Autozone , I think Midas and maybe goldwagen has them as well as Diesel electric . Iv seen the banners at their entrance.
Morano is on this forum (moranor@axis I think) , You could PM him . Im sure he will be happy to help you.His helped tons of guys here .
Buy copper compound and place it on the BACK part of the pads (not the part that touches the disk) before installing it onto the piston and holder, I used that and there were no squeaks , Also check if the anti rattle metal piece is properly secured and not loose, BMW also sells that copper compound , but im sure its probably much more expensive . The brand I used was gold / brown in color and comes in a tube or a tin and I purchased that from Midas, But autozone has it as well, I purchased the tube and have used that tube for almost 5 years now. It really does last long. Also works on Squeaky house door hinges, though its messy for that application LoL
The Textar pads ones I purchased from Autozone , I think Midas and maybe goldwagen has them as well as Diesel electric . Iv seen the banners at their entrance.
Morano is on this forum (moranor@axis I think) , You could PM him . Im sure he will be happy to help you.His helped tons of guys here .
Buy copper compound and place it on the BACK part of the pads (not the part that touches the disk) before installing it onto the piston and holder, I used that and there were no squeaks , Also check if the anti rattle metal piece is properly secured and not loose, BMW also sells that copper compound , but im sure its probably much more expensive . The brand I used was gold / brown in color and comes in a tube or a tin and I purchased that from Midas, But autozone has it as well, I purchased the tube and have used that tube for almost 5 years now. It really does last long. Also works on Squeaky house door hinges, though its messy for that application LoL
