BOOST ISSUES

[Vaughan]

Hi all

I was wondering of anyone can offer some info or assistance. I have not so random boost issues at the moment. Let me start with the car (2002 FL E46 320D),so in the cold the car is normally OK but not great like the boost is half mast bit when it gets warm the boost will vanish under certain circumstances like when overtaking as soon as I am done and I'm back in my lane and put the car into first the boost is gone (no power). I land up having to turn the car off and on again regardless of the speed I'm driving then the power domes back. I have replaced all the boost pipes and put a reconned garret turbo. when the car is normal performs like a beast.I also replaced the glow plugs cause of a fault on the diagnostic ( to eliminate limp mode ) But as of late even in JHB traffic I loose all power.


Can anyone shed some light or assistance on this matter ? Ant help would be greatly appreciated

 

[netercol]

the glow plugs will not cause limp mode, they hardly matter in our climate.

the fact that the power comes back when you turn the key on and off might be an indication that the issue is one of the sensors, perhaps the map sensor at the back of the manifold, over-boost would cause limp mode for sure. could also be the actuator controlling the turbo thats intermittent. could also be fuel related, low rail pressure or high rail pressure..

i would suggest having the fault codes read via diagnostics, should give an indication where to start looking.. depending on where you are located there might even be a fanatic close by that might be willing to help you read the error codes..

 

[Vaughan]

Thanks for that will take a look at those 3 issues. It has had a diagnostic already and no faults ! But as I was told that if it is the actuator it would only show the fault if it was faulty at that point when the diagnostic takes place as it only fails on occasion and then switching car on and off resets it. Thanks again

 

[Vaughan]

OK so checked on everything then replaced the turbo's actuator and HOLY CRAP the car has been underpowered for a loooong time. The boost issue is fixed! It is most certainly a good idea to (if the original turbo blows) replace it with a garret one which cost me R5500 and remove the cats. The car is just something else now

 

[Nikhil]

great stuff :rollsmile:

 

[netercol]

good stuff :thumbs:

thanx for reporting back, might help someone else along the line..

 

[kcmwinga]

OK so checked on everything then replaced the turbo's actuator and HOLY CRAP the car has been underpowered for a loooong time. The boost issue is fixed! It is most certainly a good idea to (if the original turbo blows) replace it with a garret one which cost me R5500 and remove the cats. The car is just something else now

Can I ask where you got the turbo for R5500? New or recon? Thanks


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[DieselFan]

It's either a new fake garret or a reconned. R5500 is not new turbo money

 

[Vaughan]

It was a recon from turbo direct in JHB. they give a warranty with the recon too. It has been 30000km and no problems

 

[SandmanEnters]

Hey Bud

Thanks for the post, I'm glad you got to the bottom of it:thumbs:

I now believe this might be my problem as well. I have been experiencing similar issues on a 2002 330d, although without the need to switch the engine off to get power back. Mine mostly felt intermittently under-powered, but also cuts out momentarily under sudden full throttle. I had believed this problem was alleviated after changing the fuel filter, but a few days later it's back.

I've done many repairs and replacements, all which needed to be done anyway, and all have given incremental increases in power and drivability. But still the underlying issue remains. I have been thrown off course recently by a fault code for the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor).

As explained to me by a few other members (shortened version, please correct me if I am wrong), the TPS sends a signal to the injectors, who in turn signal the turbo. If the turbo then starts boosting, the pressure in the manifold should increase. A signal of this increased pressure is then sent back to the TPS to be measured. If the signal is deemed incorrect, it could throw out the TPS fault code.
After reading your post, my logic is this: Incorrect boost pressure due to actuator --> bad signal sent back to TPS. Explains fault code and power issue? Possibly also the the loud pitch from the turbo that I (sort of) thought was due to cat removal. Do you guys agree?

I'm sorry if I hi-jacked your thread, I did not mean to do so. I tend to get carried away and after reading this I got excited :joy:

Glad to hear you got your problem sorted, many happy days ahead!

Cheers

PS: Link to thread with my problem if you are interested: https://www.bmwfanatics.co.za/showthread.php?tid=58270

 

[netercol]

read through your other post, dunno why i didnt see it..

anyways, see that you mean pedal position sensor, not tps.

the fact that the hesitation cleared up for a while when you changed the fuel filter might be a indication that your hesitation is more fuel starvation than boost issues.. it might be (in order of probability) the lift pump, or the relay driving the lift pump, the rail pressure sensor, or rail regulator..

or simply the pedal sensor as the codes seem to indicate.. i might be wrong but im guessing that your problem is not turbo itself related..

the best that you can do is to have inpa running while driving.. this will immediately and without doubt show if the pedal or injectors or sensors are not acting as they should.. if you can take the time to get to the centurion, rooihuiskraal area i am willing to hook my inpa set up and see if we can see something? else a fanatic closer to you might be able to help?

 

[SandmanEnters]

read through your other post, dunno why i didnt see it..

anyways, see that you mean pedal position sensor, not tps.

the fact that the hesitation cleared up for a while when you changed the fuel filter might be a indication that your hesitation is more fuel starvation than boost issues.. it might be (in order of probability) the lift pump, or the relay driving the lift pump, the rail pressure sensor, or rail regulator..

or simply the pedal sensor as the codes seem to indicate.. i might be wrong but im guessing that your problem is not turbo itself related..

the best that you can do is to have inpa running while driving.. this will immediately and without doubt show if the pedal or injectors or sensors are not acting as they should.. if you can take the time to get to the centurion, rooihuiskraal area i am willing to hook my inpa set up and see if we can see something? else a fanatic closer to you might be able to help?

Hey man thanks for the reply, I appreciate the insight. I might have gotten the throttle body parts mixed in with the diesel pedal again it seems... but I will certainly take you up on your offer! I am in arcadia myself, so it's just down the road. I will PM you in the week and check when you are available. Om thinking maybe Wednesday so far?

I thank you in advance good sir.
Regards,

 

[DieselFan]

If netercol is helping you, you are in good hands. You might just get lucky enough to have a ride along in his 330d

 

[Nikhil]

let us know the outcome :rollsmile:

 

[netercol]

read through your other post, dunno why i didnt see it..

anyways, see that you mean pedal position sensor, not tps.

the fact that the hesitation cleared up for a while when you changed the fuel filter might be a indication that your hesitation is more fuel starvation than boost issues.. it might be (in order of probability) the lift pump, or the relay driving the lift pump, the rail pressure sensor, or rail regulator..

or simply the pedal sensor as the codes seem to indicate.. i might be wrong but im guessing that your problem is not turbo itself related..

the best that you can do is to have inpa running while driving.. this will immediately and without doubt show if the pedal or injectors or sensors are not acting as they should.. if you can take the time to get to the centurion, rooihuiskraal area i am willing to hook my inpa set up and see if we can see something? else a fanatic closer to you might be able to help?

Hey man thanks for the reply, I appreciate the insight. I might have gotten the throttle body parts mixed in with the diesel pedal again it seems... but I will certainly take you up on your offer! I am in arcadia myself, so it's just down the road. I will PM you in the week and check when you are available. Om thinking maybe Wednesday so far?

I thank you in advance good sir.
Regards,

Wednesday should be fine, drop me a pm and lets see what we can work out..

:=):

 

[Vaughan]

Finally got it semi sorted. The main boost issue was the boost regulator situated on the right side of the car. BUT there is still another issues with the boost delivering late. It only kicks in at 2500rev and then is underpowered as well. So I'm thinking there is a sensor somewhere not playing nice anymore. Anyone know where these sensors are ?. Thanks in advance

 

[SandmanEnters]

Finally got it semi sorted. The main boost issue was the boost regulator situated on the right side of the car. BUT there is still another issues with the boost delivering late. It only kicks in at 2500rev and then is underpowered as well. So I'm thinking there is a sensor somewhere not playing nice anymore. Anyone know where these sensors are ?. Thanks in advance

Hey bud, I assume you checked the boost pipes already? If not, definetely do that. Especially the ones between the 1.(turbo actuator & reservoir), 2.(reservoir & pressure converter) and between the 3.(pressure converter & main vacuum line). Could be a split at the end of one of the lines that opens up and closes as boost is applied. In warm conditions this will be worse. Another leak that I had on mine was on the brake booster, where the main vacuum line was not properly seated into the booster and lost vacuum. But that one you should be able to hear clearly.

I would recommend cleaning the MAP sensor behind the manifold with some carb cleaner, and maybe the membrane inside the pressure converter itself as well. That made a massive difference to the boost on my car. Then maybe have a look at debris lodged behind the intercooler.

If you think it's a sensor issue, maybe have look at the wiring on all the sensors as well. Might be an exposed wire making contact to something it shouldn't. I recently went trough my entire engine bay hunting a short. I tried fixing all of my dodgy connections - especially at the plugs themselves, so now only time will tell. (Humidity inside the engine bay could cause an intermittent short if there's dodgy or exposed wiring.)

To answer your question, which I only now see I didn't:
SOME SENSOR LOCATIONS:
MAP sensor - behind manifold, plugged into manifold (Take out cabin filter housing for better access)
MAF sensor - Inside charged air pipe between airfilter housing and intercooler, use MAF cleaner/electrical sensor cleaner for this one, and be very gentle with it.
Fuel Pressure Regulator - On my engine it's in the front of the engine bay, close to the plug for the MAF Sensor. In front of the injector rail.
Fuel Pressure Sensor - Back of engine bay, next to MAP sensor, fitted into back of injector rail.
Pressure Converter: One near the turbo under the airbox, another on the opposite side of the engine bay near the EGR valve. Under the manifold possibly.

This is only on my engine, the M57 btw, I know the locations differ on the M57N, but don't know the details.

Hope this helps.
Cheers