528 m30, ticking noise? Valve adjustment help

[symmat001]

Hi Guys, ever since I've had my e28 it's had a ticking noise that increases with RPM's and heat.

I'm still learning mechanically wise, but I've done some searching around and it sounds like its the valves. Apparently having to adjust the valves is a common m30 problem, and apparently it is quite easy, however I dont have the tools and dont want to mess this up, I am not mechanically good at all.

I could be wrong?

Otherwise any m30 specialists on the forums that have done this adjustment? Anyone know who the best person would be to go for this adjustment and would know what the correct adjustments for this engine?

The ticking sound has really started to irritate me

 

[moranor@axis]

talk to Rick540 he should be able to help you out if he has time...

 

[Gizmo]

Easy job, too bad you're on the other side of the country...

 

[Raybimmer]

Well maybe its time to get mechanical .....You will enjoy the time .
It is not a big job , you are putting a feeler gauge in and setting each valve clearance and turning the engine ( easier with spark plugs out ) till all twelve are done .
Good luck

 

[Pfw28]

Well maybe its time to get mechanical .....You will enjoy the time .
It is not a big job , you are putting a feeler gauge in and setting each valve clearance and turning the engine ( easier with spark plugs out ) till all twelve are done .
Good luck

+1, so simple even a ten year old can manage it. Get down and dirty, there's no better feeling once it's done, and good! :rollsmile:

 

[Peter@AEW]

You will need a feeler gauge a number 10 thin walled ring spanner a small allen key or small screw driver which has been bent at a 90 degree angle 4/5 of the way down the shaft and you are ready to go.

Before you start the engine must be cold (Thanks Raybimmer)

Start on cylinder one and because you are new to this it will take you a bit longer.

Remove plugs to make your life easier.
Get a big socket I think it is a 30/32 and put it on the crankshaft nut with a power bar.
Remove tappet cover.

Rotate the crank until the camshaft on 1 cylinder is facing with the lobes in the air and the heel on the valve stem.

Insert the feeler gauge (25thou) between the heel of the cam and the valve stem.
The gauge should be able to travel between them easily but at the same time you should be able to feel a bit of resistance.
If you do not ,release the nut which is on the rocker and insert the bent screw driver or allen key in the hole of the eccentric.
Whilst the feeler gauge is positioned between the cam and valve stem rotate the eccentric until it "pins" the feeler gauge and then back off just a bit. Tighten the nut.

You should now feel a slight bit of resistance when pulling and pushing the feeler gauge.
Repeat until you get a smooth resistance feeling on the feeler gauge blade.

Tighten the nut properly and go to the next valve on the same cylinder and repeat.

Next rotate engine to cylinder 2 so that the cam lobes are facing up and the cam heel is facing the valve stem.
Repeat the "feeling" procedure as above.

Please remember that loose tappets are far more preferable than tight tappets.

Good Luck and when you finished lean against the car light up a smoke crack a beer and admire your handy work whilst nodding to yourself knowingly :thumbs:

 

[Raybimmer]

You will need a feeler gauge a number 10 thin walled ring spanner a small allen key or small screw driver which has been bent at a 90 degree angle 4/5 of the way down the shaft and you are ready to go.

Start on cylinder one and because you are new to this it will take you a bit longer.

Remove plugs to make your life easier.
Get a big socket I think it is a 30/32 and put it on the crankshaft nut with a power bar.
Remove tappet cover.

Rotate the crank until the camshaft on 1 cylinder is facing with the lobes in the air and the heel on the valve stem.

Insert the feeler gauge (25thou) between the heel of the cam and the valve stem.
The gauge should be able to travel between them easily but at the same time you should be able to feel a bit of resistance.
If you do not ,release the nut which is on the rocker and insert the bent screw driver or allen key in the hole of the eccentric.
Whilst the feeler gauge is positioned between the cam and valve stem rotate the eccentric until it "pins" the feeler gauge and then back off just a bit. Tighten the nut.

You should now feel a slight bit of resistance when pulling and pushing the feeler gauge.
Repeat until you get a smooth resistance feeling on the feeler gauge blade.

Tighten the nut properly and go to the next valve on the same cylinder and repeat.

Next rotate engine to cylinder 2 so that the cam lobes are facing up and the cam heel is facing the valve stem.
Repeat the "feeling" procedure as above.

Please remember that loose tappets are far more preferable than tight tappets.

Good Luck and when you finished lean against the car light up a smoke crack a beer and admire your handy work whilst nodding to yourself knowingly :thumbs:

Thanks I was going to do this but did not know the guys level of mechanical ability .
You did not say if you set them warm or cold .
If warm and you work slowly they will be cool by the time you get to the last one :roflol: ......really .....these Yanks think so ....:roflol:
I used a 3 mm allen key .

 

[symmat001]

Good Luck and when you finished lean against the car light up a smoke crack a beer and admire your handy work whilst nodding to yourself knowingly :thumbs:

:roflol: Thanks so much for the DIY will do it this week sometime. Just need to get a feeler gauge. Will let you know how it goes. Thanks for the encouragement

Thanks I was going to do this but did not know the guys level of mechanical ability .
You did not say if you set them warm or cold .
If warm and you work slowly they will be cool by the time you get to the last one :roflol: ......really .....these Yanks think so ....:roflol:
I used a 3 mm allen key .

Haha also read that in my research