2006 320d, to buy or not to buy

deonlr

New member
Hi all, I'm brand new to the forum since I'm considering buying my 1st BMW. I can get a friend's 2006, 320,d, 60000km, 'executive package' for R145,000. Service plan till Feb '11. I know it's a good price, my concerns are maintenance after Feb next year. Also most people I talk to warn me about the injector problems I'll get with the quality of diesel we get in the Bloemfontein.

So my questions:
When does the problems with the injectors usually start, if at all?
When is the next major service and what is a ballpark price for this?

I know it is an amazing vehicle, I'm just afraid of an unaffordable maintenance bill in the near future. I would appreciate some input from owners regarding problems they experienced (or don't experience, I hope).

Thanks for reading.
 

STREETRACER

Active member
Get a price from the BMW agents to extend the motor plan! your best bet on the long run!
Injectors are R17k for 4! Ive got the 2008 320d and its the best daily driver on the market! nice drive, runs strong and very light on fuel! no idea on service prices as i still got M/P.. bud realy find out if you can extend the plan!
 

zaleonardz

Well-known member
Howdy man.

Buy it... finish :)

Search the forum for a recent E39 diesel discussion that we have had, injectors problem yes, turbo problems yes, swirl flap problems, yes.

But, there are guys that can fix all of those things cheaply. drive it for 40,000. then do the usual, refer to that thread to find out what the usuals are, try getting some of them done under motorplan... and you got an awesome car :)
 

applehero

///Member
I agree with you guys here. I've got the same engine in my 120d... No major issues with my engine. I do remember reading somewhere that the M47N2 doesn't have swirl flaps (thank goodness for that).

I wouldn't extend the motorplan though. It really isn't worth it. We were looking at extending the motor plan on a 2005 X5 about a year ago and that would cost R1/km! So for an extra 20 000Km it would be R20 000! Funny enough, (perhaps ironically is a better word) the gearbox went at 115 000Km and we were quoted R35K to replace it.

So as long as you have a manual, things will be just dandy. Although I'm not sure what, out of the ordinary gets replaced after 100 000Km. And even if it is an auto, chances are slim the gearbox will need replacing anytime soon.
 

George Smooth

///Member
STREETRACER said:
Get a price from the BMW agents to extend the motor plan! your best bet on the long run!
Injectors are R17k for 4! Ive got the 2008 320d and its the best daily driver on the market! nice drive, runs strong and very light on fuel! no idea on service prices as i still got M/P.. bud realy find out if you can extend the plan!

Some advice on your MP. Regularly get Motorplan print outs on your car to see what has been claimed. I know of two cases that places where claiming stuff on other peoples Vin numbers. It might not sound like a issue but when the time comes to sell the buyer might think the car has excessive claims and is problematic.
 

Twinz

Forum - Support
Staff member
zaleonardz said:
Twinz... dont start :thumbsup:

OK, start... but make it interesting

ZL...i kinda knew you would still be awake...no man, me just teasing :wave:
 

zaleonardz

Well-known member
I agree with the no Motor plan thing, as long as you have a decent machie that you trust...

I extended on the E65 and it cost me 15k, considering its had 17k worth of work since, guess it was an investment, although if I was paying for the repairs, I would not have paid 17k....

40,000 is quite a bit left on Motorplan...

Question,

How many bhp's do you think an A4 sized fanatics sticker would add ?
 

deonlr

New member
Thanks for all the replies, no one seems to comment on the diesel quality/injector issue, I guess that is not a problem then?

Thanks for the MP advice, than was something I was considering.
 

Hunter

New member
Good day all- new here but glad I found this thread since I have very simmilar questions. I must say motorplan FTW but damn thats expensive to extend. My current vehicle just went out of it and I might be stuck with R9k repairs to be done soon so looking out for a decent 320d. Just scared of that turbo failure after motorplan. A mate of mine had a 320d and the turbo went poppers 4k km after mplan. It made him sell the car in the end.
 

Yulz9081

Honorary ///Member
There is no set rate for motorplan extension, bmw will check your mileage etc when the time comes to extend as the stealers have a general idea of what goes wrong when. Like for me to extend motorplan on the e46 after 5 years,it only cost me R3600 for another 2 years because I was only on 75000km at the time and in that 2 year extended period I had work done to the amount of 40k! :excited: Talk about an investment. So just buy it :) Drive it and enjoy,when the time comes to extend, get a quote from them or get in contact with guys here on the forum who are in touch with some really good machies at good rates. :thumbsup:
 

freerider

Honorary ///Member
I havent heard of any issues with the turbos on the e90's, I think that was only a e46 problem. Of course any turbo will have a lifespan, but then any engine does as well.

Injectors.... yeah well, I sold my 320d because of the darn injectors, cost me R24k for replacement.

Pimped from another site. Thought it makes for some interesting reading.

I've been following this and other similar threads with great interest as I've had the honour?? of being directly involved with troubleshooting, root cause analysis and laboratory analysis of injectrs and causes of injector failures. I can write a book on findings and causes but herewith a short-ish writeup of my findings and deductions.

Earthmoving technology is probably a short leg behind F1 - believe it or not. We had similar problems starting in the early 90's and still have some issues with the latest extreme high pressure multi-injection map injectors.

Fact - Diesel fuel-from-Coal also have, by nature, a much higher percentage of very small but extremely abrasive particles than crude-derived diesel.

Most injector problems really started when we moved from PC engines (1520 to 1750Psi) to DI (2200 to 2500Psi), and then from the early 2200Psi pencil-typedirect injectors to unit injectors (9000Psi), later hydraulically-activated electronically controlled unit injectors (25000Psi), and of late even higher pressure multi-injection unit injectors (up to 35000Psi).

I've had the opportunity to research injector problems - analysis mostly indicated 3 very distinct causes.

Water - this causes vapor expansion erosion (water expands very rapidly when placed under extreme prssure such as in the injector tip). This can cause corrosion on the seat and ports, it can cause wear on the ports and if enough water, will pop the tips off the injectors causing severe engine damage. Prevent this with a high quality drainable water trap.

Lubricity. This used to be a huge problem during the early Sasol years but have been largely resolved. It does become more of a problem at the Reef during winter as the fuel companies add a higher percentage parrafin to the diesel fuel to help fight the waxing of the fuel during storage and use. I believe most fuel companies have now sorted the pure lubricity related issues - however, 4ePajero's suggestion of 2-stroke oil with the fuel is and remains a good one and will do no damage whilst offering protection when the fuel company gets it wrong...

Dirt - the biggest killer at present. Dirt has two distinct results - one which cannot be "healed" without injector replacement and one which can be "healed". Then first result is worn seats and ports which results in poor spray patterns, incorrect pressures, in turn leading to hard starting, smoking, increased fuel consumption, cylinder washing (and possible seizure if not attended to). To fix this the injector tip (or complete injector on some makes) needs to be replaced.

The second phenomina, which very few manufacturers even knows about, nevermind paying attention to, was, to my knowledge, first sighted and identified by a dear old German friend of mine, an ex-director of a well known earthmoving Co. and later a pioneer of depth-filtration in SA and overseas. He called the phenomina "injector needle stiction" and went on to prove that firstly it does exist, that it is caused by both size and quantity of dirt in fuel and that the results can be catastrophic. The dirt size issue is self explanitory I believe? - the second issue is one where multitudes of small particles tend to bunch and conglomorate together resulting in even bigger damage - simply because they pass through all current filters and can form totally undetected.

The conglomerated dirt causes injector needle stiction which causes injector precision disruption through delays caused by drag between the injector needle and bore - resulting in erratic movement of the needle resulting in incorrect timing, incorrect amounts of fuel injected (starting actual injection late and continuing past the required cut-off point), overfuelling, etc. Most of all though - it causes all of this virtually undetected and is the cause of many modern diesel maladies.
The good news is that provided the needle seat and ports are still in good nick, the effects of stiction can be reversed by using super clean fuel. In short, the "stiction" diminishes and eventually goes away completely, leaving behind a fully, properly functioning injector.

2-stroke oil will help with general lubricity but cannot completely prevent the stiction caused by debris and dirt in the fuel. This is the reason for calling for the min-3micron series filtration - not only to filter down to 3micron or less, but to remove as much of that sized particles as possible.

The single biggest preventor of wear and failures is thus 1)water removal 2)Fine filtration (3micron absolute or less, and lately 2micron series filtration which is basically 2 x 2micron filters placed in series with a 5 micron filter as pre-filter)

The two major filter technologies (radial or through-pass and depth type) require slightly different approaches.

A good quality water trap is a MUST. A drain plug fitted to the lowest point on the fuel tank is a bonus allowing the water to be drained off every six months or so.

Never park the vehicle with a partially filled tank for long periods. Fill it fully.

In the past we used to believe that fuel filters should be left until they block. This is not necessarily true any more as many dirt particles manage to migrate through the media causing damage to the later high-tech systems. High-grade synthetic media has far superior dirt containment capacity compared to cured paper types. As example, the Cat 2 and 3micron filters have twice the sediment capacity (by weight) than their regular 10micron counterparts.

For standard recommended filters, stick to the manufacturers recommended periods, or at most, 50% over.

Depth filtration requires servicing and replacements but generally lasts much longer and filtrates cleaner, albeit at an increased cost and severely restricted flow rates. To meet flow requirements larger filters are required. They also need to be mounted upright - both trends which makes finding fitting space a huge problem on road vehicles.

Overservicing is a definite killer. Never change a filter out of sync simply because it might be a good thing - it wont be. Every time a filter is changed, it takes time for the new filter to reach max filtration capacity, allowing debris to pass to the fuel system. Also, NEVER fill the filter from a container before fitting. Always fill it through the use of the lift pump.

This is where the series-filtration has a HUGE advantage. It consists of a water trap, a rock filter (5 to 10 micron) also referred to as a pre-filter, and two similar filters of 2 to 3micron rating connected in series. The primary and secondary fine filters should NEVER be replaced at the same time. I've convertedc run-hours to approx km's to supply estimated km's - the 10 or 5 micron prefilter (this can be the originally filter unit if retained) can be changed every 10 000kms. The primary 2 or 3micron filter should be replaced every 20 000kms, the secondary 2 or 3micron filter every 30000kms only. The overlap allows the filter changes to be alternated. It also keeps the costs very close to the original setup - another reason my blood boils when I see manufacturers screwing the end-users by opting out and claiming they have no control over fuel quality. Point is very simple - they CAN if only they get off their dainty behinds and deliver what the market wants.

The above km estimation is for a medium capacity system (4.5L to 7.5L capacity engine) and based on a high-capacity constant-bleed type system (where the fuel is used to cool the injectors and ECM's). It can run for longer kms on limited-bleed systems.

The advantage of the above mentioned filter environment is that whenever a pre-filter, a primary or secondary fine filter gets blocked it simply requires changing... NO damage, NO debris through the system. Should a pre-filter get blocked and you have no spare, flush it and re-fit. Replace at earliest convenience. The same goes for the primary filter. Should the secondary filter block and you have no spare, simply flush it and then swap it with the primary filter. Replace at earliest convenience afterwards.

http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/showthread.php?t=47737
 

Hunter

New member
What is a decent price to pay for a 320d, I see them ranging from R160k to R230k for the '07 models with roughly 60 000km on the clock? Just dont want to get ripped off like with my previous car.
 

msm

Well-known member
BMW quoted me about R13k to replace 2 injectors on the X5. This was at around 120K. Had them cleaned for about +/-R2K each IIRC at Tunetech (can't remember exact figure).

Been about 5000KM's since and no issues. Just bought a bottle of Liqui Moly Diesel Anti Knock (that Mike suggested) to keep the injectors clean - will be pouring it in this weekend (and every few 1000 KM's). Let's see how long preventative maintenance on the injectors lasts .....
 

Twinz

Forum - Support
Staff member
All i can advise is...do get an extension on your warranty when the time comes..get some quotes and decide...
On my 120d (2005) model..never had a problem with turbo or injectors...none...no engine issues...only had a flywheel replaced.

This 120d was chipped the day i drove it out of the showroom...never had issues...just fun.:thumbsup:
 

msm

Well-known member
Twinz@Rennzport said:
All i can advise is...do get an extension on your warranty when the time comes..get some quotes and decide...
On my 120d (2005) model..never had a problem with turbo or injectors...none...no engine issues...only had a flywheel replaced.

This 120d was chipped the day i drove it out of the showroom...never had issues...just fun.:thumbsup:

Just out of curiosity, did to stick to 50PPM diesel only and any particular brand?
 

applehero

///Member
Hunter said:
Good day all- new here but glad I found this thread since I have very simmilar questions. I must say motorplan FTW but damn thats expensive to extend. My current vehicle just went out of it and I might be stuck with R9k repairs to be done soon so looking out for a decent 320d. Just scared of that turbo failure after motorplan. A mate of mine had a 320d and the turbo went poppers 4k km after mplan. It made him sell the car in the end.

Which model did your friend have? Perhaps the e46 320d? I've heard terrible stories about the e36. And some about the e46. But none about the e90...

deonlr said:
From what I can find online the turbo problems seem to be mostly pre 2004, is this true?

I haven't heard any turbo issues about the current offering of diesels...
 
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