Sending it back next week, will update, can't be normal as its fine when the A/C is off.
Drama said:
When I come to a stop in traffic or at the traffic light, the idle drops below 1k then picks up a bit then stabilizes. 2013 DCT now with 20k on the clock. Assumed it's normal although it bugs me.
Yeah same here, although with the A/C on its alot 'rougher' to stabilize if that makes sense?
Kind of dangerous at a stop, if your foot is not firm on the brakes the car tried to jump forward.
Le Clue said:
Sounds like a gearbox issue? Anyone on the 1Addicts forum experiencing the same?
Yep similar issues, do definitive answers though!
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=611157
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=675318
SKYF said:
Check to see if latest DCT software has been installed.
akash said:
Maybe be a software issue on the gearbox i assume.
Could the dealer not just load the latest software if available?
Thanks guys, will ask them to check.
njabulosky said:
I'm scared now wanted to by a 2012 135i Dct early next year....[CRYING FACE][CRYING FACE][CRYING FACE]
Sorry bud, maybe i'm just OCD
No car is perfect! Just get it, its an awesome car especially with MP :hammerhead:
From 1addicts
I was told the 'injectors in this car are known to leak. The rough idle is from excess fuel in the combustion chambers which burns off' etc.
I'm thinking this could be the issue.
Already had the HPFP replaced, which caused a rough idle at cold start.
With the new HPFP, cold starts are fine, but the idle is rough when properly warmed up to 120 or just under.
tranzit said:
:thumbs:
This sounds like a boost / vacuum leak. Something on the intake has popped off letting unmetered MAF air in (N55) or wild MAP readings (N54). The closed loop idle system is trying to regain control over the leak but doesn't have enough control (strangle rev'ing, low RPMs, jerking). Perhaps the leak is small and without the AC the system can cover up the issue, but when the AC is on, the control system is pushed over the edge (no more room to adjust). This is the first thing I would suspect on any turbo car. If thats not the case, then look into (log) the incoming air count and see how that compares to expected values (if you can do this, otherwise BMW can do this). I am shocked you don't have error codes.
Perhaps there is something wrong with the AC, but these system have so many pressure checks (switches) and contol logic that usally if there is an AC problem it just won't turn on.
Could be the above as well
