technical Warning Light: Engine fault! Reduced power, help required.

Yatish123

New member
Hi Members and a Happy New Year to everyone.

I have an 2009 e92 335i DCT as previously mentioned sometime back when I bought my car. I have it for almost 3 years and I have never had any real issues until a few weeks back now. All my services was done with BMW and was stock standard which I looked after.

The start of my problems came around 3 weeks ago, when I decided to do stage 1 software and downpipes on my car in Jhb before I could come back to Durban.

The very same day, when I had received my car after the modifications, my expansion tank cracked open at the side and was replaced the next day and when it was up to temperature, it held up and that problem was solved. The car was running fine in Jhb and had no problems whatsoever.

So I then drove down to Durban a few days later. On my drive down to Durban, approx. 100km into my trip, an engine warning light came up, "Engine fault! Reduced power" which made me extremely worried, I then proceeded to pullover and switch the car off and then then on, which removed the fault warning. It did this around 4 times down on my trip to Durban and was advised by my tuner, the car would be fine to drive down and he would be down in Durban to take a look at it in a 2 weeks, even when the warning light did come on, it felt like I had all my power rather than it being reduced. I made it down to Durban in one peice and it felt like the car was at it's optimum.

1 day later, I decided to take a drive to ballito, which is around 14km from my residence. On the fast lane with lots of traffic, I received multiple warning lights and then my car was stone cold dead on the fast lane which caused a huge traffic situation. I then got a rollback to tow it away and the next day I took my battery to a battery centre which confirmed it was dead and I needed to replace it which I did. I got a diagnostic guy to come out and clear any faults which he did when the new battery was replaced. It started fine and I had no warning lights which felt good to see, I then drove it locally and then the dreaded, "Engine fault! Reduced power" light came on once again and this time was different as the car felt very slow and the car was shuddering with reduced power and misses when you rev and once again, I switched off and then on again which removed the warning light and car felt fine until it did it again 5 minutes later.

I then parked the car off and did not use it again for 3 days. When I did start it after 3 days, the swing of the start felt longer then usual from 1 swing to 3 swings which I felt was strange so I then proceeded to check my alternator which was charging so that was not the issue.

I then realized and confirmed my theory, if I drive the car efficiently or hard if the oil temperature is under 100°C, no warning lights or any lack of performance symptoms are shown. As soon as it reached around 100°C, it then threw the engine fault light sometimes with actual loss of power and sometimes without. I tested it this theory twice and this is the conclusion I have come too.

Is there anyone that has had the same or any similar issues to mine and if any of the members are willing to give me some advice on what I should do and if anyone can help, it would be highly appreciated.

Thank you!
 

AshG108

///Member
Hi,

Firstly - you r car should have a Stage 2 tune if you have downpipes and not stage 1.
Secondly - Do you have an ODB adaptor or something to log your codes, you seem to review the issues but the behavior of your car can be a few things if it is now looked into using diagnostics rather.
Third - Since you have your car and you have been servicing it at BMW, have you researched and done all preventative maintenance on the car before loading a tune and doing DPs? Expansion tank seems to be a wear and tear item but on the 2009 335i, I stand to be corrected but that seems to be an N54 motor which has a few niggles that need to be done before modding.

Most common issues on N54 that I am aware off are:
  • High-Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP) Failure
  • Turbocharger Failure / Wastegate Rattle
  • Leaky Fuel Injectors
  • Leaking Boost / Chargepipe Failure
  • Valve Cover Oil Leak
  • Carbon Build-up
  • Vanos Solenoids
  • Water Pump Failure
So if you have not checked these items before maybe keep this is a list of items to check out while you at it as well.

So get an OBD connector like even Carly - or get it to someone to run the codes and post the codes here so you can get some help on it first and then take it from there in terms of fixes and what to fix first.

If you in Jhb, give @Sherwin@xcede a call to check it out and run the codes too, they can also help with any of the repairs too.

Good luck!
 

Bugger

///Member
You may also need to review what spark plugs you're using, with a tune and downpipes you should theoretically be using 2 step colder spark plugs, and check your coil packs.

Not advertising, but this is an example of what you should potentially be looking for:


Reduced engine warnings can be MANY things, so start with the easy ones first. As mentioned by Ash, check those issues he listed as well. You need to pull all the codes the car is throwing and review them individually. I had similar issues on my M5 that was Stage 2 and it took a long time and lots of money to resolve, so hopefully yours is an easy fix. Good luck
 

NBN

Well-known member
My money is on the car throwing 30FF codes … which is a boost or vacuum leak . Not sure if your specific software/tune only starts to kick in once the oil is up to operating temp ( my jb4 use to have this feature but I am unfamiliar if a flash can mimic this ) .

As others have suggested , start by reading the codes and take it from there , remember if it’s a 2009 there is a probability that some 14yr old part has worn out and the tune is amplifying the issue .
 

AudiDriver

Active member
Hi,

Firstly - you r car should have a Stage 2 tune if you have downpipes and not stage 1.
Secondly - Do you have an ODB adaptor or something to log your codes, you seem to review the issues but the behavior of your car can be a few things if it is now looked into using diagnostics rather.
Third - Since you have your car and you have been servicing it at BMW, have you researched and done all preventative maintenance on the car before loading a tune and doing DPs? Expansion tank seems to be a wear and tear item but on the 2009 335i, I stand to be corrected but that seems to be an N54 motor which has a few niggles that need to be done before modding.

Most common issues on N54 that I am aware off are:
  • High-Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP) Failure
  • Turbocharger Failure / Wastegate Rattle
  • Leaky Fuel Injectors
  • Leaking Boost / Chargepipe Failure
  • Valve Cover Oil Leak
  • Carbon Build-up
  • Vanos Solenoids
  • Water Pump Failure
So if you have not checked these items before maybe keep this is a list of items to check out while you at it as well.

So get an OBD connector like even Carly - or get it to someone to run the codes and post the codes here so you can get some help on it first and then take it from there in terms of fixes and what to fix first.

If you in Jhb, give @Sherwin@xcede a call to check it out and run the codes too, they can also help with any of the repairs too.

Good luck!

This is good advice. Follow it.

I must add, again based on my own experience and a good few cars modified, if you don't have the (...at least access to...) equipment and knowledge (research is key) to log and fault find, best leave it stock...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

QikNish

Well-known member
Diagnostics will show you a misfire code or something. I had an issue with my 1M last week... drove fine at low rpm but soon as I got on it i'd get a misfire. Switch off and on and it would clear and drive fine. MHD Diagnostics showed cyl 6 misfire. (could have been plug, coil or injector) ... I decided to do the basics and sure enough pulled number 6 plug out and it had a fine crack on the ceramic. Swopped all 6 for BMW sourced plugs and runs like a champ again.
 

KarshS

///Member
Replace all coils and spark plugs with new.
Replace all your vacuum lines and do a pressure test on the boost pipes.

Do that and it should be better.

If you don't have rev 12 injectors. Get those as well.

Above will make it much more reliable. It's a must on the n54

Do above and take it from there
 

Yatish123

New member
Hi,

Firstly - you r car should have a Stage 2 tune if you have downpipes and not stage 1.
Secondly - Do you have an ODB adaptor or something to log your codes, you seem to review the issues but the behavior of your car can be a few things if it is now looked into using diagnostics rather.
Third - Since you have your car and you have been servicing it at BMW, have you researched and done all preventative maintenance on the car before loading a tune and doing DPs? Expansion tank seems to be a wear and tear item but on the 2009 335i, I stand to be corrected but that seems to be an N54 motor which has a few niggles that need to be done before modding.

Most common issues on N54 that I am aware off are:
  • High-Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP) Failure
  • Turbocharger Failure / Wastegate Rattle
  • Leaky Fuel Injectors
  • Leaking Boost / Chargepipe Failure
  • Valve Cover Oil Leak
  • Carbon Build-up
  • Vanos Solenoids
  • Water Pump Failure
So if you have not checked these items before maybe keep this is a list of items to check out while you at it as well.

So get an OBD connector like even Carly - or get it to someone to run the codes and post the codes here so you can get some help on it first and then take it from there in terms of fixes and what to fix first.

If you in Jhb, give @Sherwin@xcede a call to check it out and run the codes too, they can also help with any of the repairs too.

Good luck!
Hi Ash.

Thank you for advice.

I did get BMW to do a full check including critical parts and the only issues that they have mentioned was the raditor and the V-Belt needed to be replaced which I did. Thereafter, I ran the car for around 3 months and then modified the car. I will definitely look into the list of common issues and will take it from there.

I bought an launch CReader 3001 locally to read the fault code and only 1 fault code that came up is P0087 "Fuel Rail/System Pressure - Too Low"

I will keep you updated.

Thank you.
 

Yatish123

New member
You may also need to review what spark plugs you're using, with a tune and downpipes you should theoretically be using 2 step colder spark plugs, and check your coil packs.

Not advertising, but this is an example of what you should potentially be looking for:


Reduced engine warnings can be MANY things, so start with the easy ones first. As mentioned by Ash, check those issues he listed as well. You need to pull all the codes the car is throwing and review them individually. I had similar issues on my M5 that was Stage 2 and it took a long time and lots of money to resolve, so hopefully yours is an easy fix. Good luck
Hi Bugger.

Thank you for your suggestions. I will definitely look into the colder spark plugs.

Thank you once again for your help.
 

Yatish123

New member
You may also need to review what spark plugs you're using, with a tune and downpipes you should theoretically be using 2 step colder spark plugs, and check your coil packs.

Not advertising, but this is an example of what you should potentially be looking for:


Reduced engine warnings can be MANY things, so start with the easy ones first. As mentioned by Ash, check those issues he listed as well. You need to pull all the codes the car is throwing and review them individually. I had similar issues on my M5 that was Stage 2 and it took a long time and lots of money to resolve, so hopefully yours is an easy fix. Good luck
Hi Bugger.

Thank you for your suggestions. I will definitely look into the colder spark plugs.
My money is on the car throwing 30FF codes … which is a boost or vacuum leak . Not sure if your specific software/tune only starts to kick in once the oil is up to operating temp ( my jb4 use to have this feature but I am unfamiliar if a flash can mimic this ) .

As others have suggested , start by reading the codes and take it from there , remember if it’s a 2009 there is a probability that some 14yr old part has worn out and the tune is amplifying the issue .
Thank you for your help. I fully agree with you, that some worn part was on it's way out and now with the increased power, it is starting to show.
 

Yatish123

New member
Diagnostics will show you a misfire code or something. I had an issue with my 1M last week... drove fine at low rpm but soon as I got on it i'd get a misfire. Switch off and on and it would clear and drive fine. MHD Diagnostics showed cyl 6 misfire. (could have been plug, coil or injector) ... I decided to do the basics and sure enough pulled number 6 plug out and it had a fine crack on the ceramic. Swopped all 6 for BMW sourced plugs and runs like a champ again.
Thanks for the advice.
 

Yatish123

New member
Replace all coils and spark plugs with new.
Replace all your vacuum lines and do a pressure test on the boost pipes.

Do that and it should be better.

If you don't have rev 12 injectors. Get those as well.

Above will make it much more reliable. It's a must on the n54

Do above and take it from there
Thanks for the advice.
 
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