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Read the WELCOME ALL BMWFANATICS post.
Vanos Repair kit
- Thread starter AndrewPF
- Start date
check the CCV system there are many pipes to it that crack over time
also give the Maf a clean with Maf cleaner or electrical contact cleaner
are you able to read codes on the car? probably worth getting the codes read if you can find a vacuum leak and a Maf clean does not sort it out
also give the Maf a clean with Maf cleaner or electrical contact cleaner
are you able to read codes on the car? probably worth getting the codes read if you can find a vacuum leak and a Maf clean does not sort it out
Philip Foglar
///Member
Indeed, check these too!! ^^^
google e46 chewbacca sound 
Philip Foglar
///Member
moranor@axis said:google e46 chewbacca sound
LOL, that's the first time I hear of it called that! Sounds like he's got a fur ball stuck... :rollsmile:
Feedback. Thanks for all the info guys much appreciated. I'm nearly there. Found vacuum leak. Car shows no faults on codes, but still has flat spot and is miserable when cold and for the first second or two when floored :bangdesk: . On the bright side fuel consumption much better
so leak fixed and still having issues? there could be more than one...
Philip Foglar
///Member
Where was the vacuum leak? Just this past weekend I went digging in my "other" E46 to see what is causing my intermittent pinging and nasty flat spot on some stationary starts or rolling gear starts. It bogs down, then quite violently jerks as it brings the power back. Most annoying! I do still have to do the Vanos seals on this one, but with the mileage and overall mechanical condition, I don't think that it's a Vanos issue here. So my plan of action was to clean the MAF and then get the ICV out for a clean while inspecting intake boots. And that's when I got the lower intake boot out (or as RealOEM calls it, the tube elbow) and noticed a nice gaping crack on the flexible part that goes onto the ICV. So if this was indeed present (concerned that it cracked from me getting the boot off and it being brittle), then this was a nice source for a vacuum leak. The DISA was also inspected and lightly cleaned. The ICV was just a bit dirty, but still operating as it should, so at least it's now all cleaned up. No stock today, so hopefully will get the new intake boot tomorrow and fit it. Hoping this sorts me out!
Philip Foglar said:
Vacuum leak on same place. Couldn't get one in CT but managed a temporary fix with electrical heat shrink. Works very well because of the glue when it is heated. What i did find on the disa was that the one rubber that the butterfly is supposed to seal on has a damaged lip. I don't know if that is an issue as I can't find any info on the net about that particular issue. Had another small leak on the bottom cvv pipe where you can also look, you would see a little wetness of oil though
Philip Foglar
///Member
Fitted the new intake boot this afternoon, and it's made a world of difference so far! The hesitation is gone, and the pinging is almost completely gone! It's just a very slight hint every now and again when the engine is under load at lower revs. So I am going to keep an eye (ear) on that, but will probably so the lighter vacuum test around the DISA unit.
Philip Foglar
///Member
AndrewPF said:
It is, it's quite shocking! Just relieved that this sorted it out! Got the intake boot (the tube elbow) from Forsdicks Tygervalley, they had to get it from Auto Atlantic, only one in the Cape Peninsula. Paid R191 for which included a 10% discount, normally get 20%.
Here's some pics from this quick DIY:
All plain sailing until you get to the culprit, the lower intake boot, or tube elbow as RealOEM shows it as.
Remove this plastic panel that closes the DME compartment - it is secured by means of two simple plastic screw tabs that pop out. Then you can access the tricky to reach 6 mm hexagonal screw heads of the metal clamps holding this lower intake boot onto the ICV and throttle body.
DISA unit and then ICV removed.
The typical spot where these lower intake boots fail. And in my case I reckon it was still in the earlier stages such that it didn't cause an idle issue, but one heck of a hesitation, and pinging.
ICV wasn't stuck, just needed a bit of clean.
DISA unit seems healthy, and just needed a light clean.
The shiny new lower intake boot.
Everything back in place, and decided to clean the main intake boot a bit - rest of the engine bay will get a proper clean shortly!
And this done between 3 and 4 this afternoon in the blazing sun! :dizzy:
GPGrobler
///Member
AndrewPF said:
You do not "floor" a car when it is cold, but yes my 320i also miserable when cold, even bogging down and loud popping through the exhaust when I even dare try to go faster.
Philip Foglar said:AndrewPF said:
It is, it's quite shocking! Just relieved that this sorted it out! Got the intake boot (the tube elbow) from Forsdicks Tygervalley, they had to get it from Auto Atlantic, only one in the Cape Peninsula. Paid R191 for which included a 10% discount, normally get 20%.
Here's some pics from this quick DIY:
All plain sailing until you get to the culprit, the lower intake boot, or tube elbow as RealOEM shows it as.
Remove this plastic panel that closes the DME compartment - it is secured by means of two simple plastic screw tabs that pop out. Then you can access the tricky to reach 6 mm hexagonal screw heads of the metal clamps holding this lower intake boot onto the ICV and throttle body.
DISA unit and then ICV removed.
The typical spot where these lower intake boots fail. And in my case I reckon it was still in the earlier stages such that it didn't cause an idle issue, but one heck of a hesitation, and pinging.
ICV wasn't stuck, just needed a bit of clean.
DISA unit seems healthy, and just needed a light clean.
The shiny new lower intake boot.
Everything back in place, and decided to clean the main intake boot a bit - rest of the engine bay will get a proper clean shortly!
And this done between 3 and 4 this afternoon in the blazing sun! :dizzy:
Awesome Philip, when did the 330i become part of the family? :clapper:
Philip Foglar
///Member
Thanks! I still have to post a proper introduction for this car. In time, just have a few things that I still want to attend to first.
Well, I did the Vanos seals on the 320i and since it was mostly driven by my wife I let her drive it straight afterwards. She could feel a difference immediately, and why I mention this is simple. I didn't tell her what to expect, and what sort of improvements she might see. Just told her to drive it and see what she thinks. The first thing she commented on was that the pulling off and 1st to 2nd changes were far better and easier than before. I do think that over the next few hundred kilometres it settled in a bit and probably improved further, but can't say for sure since I only drove it a few times here and there.
Well, I did the Vanos seals on the 320i and since it was mostly driven by my wife I let her drive it straight afterwards. She could feel a difference immediately, and why I mention this is simple. I didn't tell her what to expect, and what sort of improvements she might see. Just told her to drive it and see what she thinks. The first thing she commented on was that the pulling off and 1st to 2nd changes were far better and easier than before. I do think that over the next few hundred kilometres it settled in a bit and probably improved further, but can't say for sure since I only drove it a few times here and there.
Philip Foglar said:
i guess its true, i noticed (on a 330 at least) after the new seals .. much smoother power between 2700 and 3200 rpm immediately. before i did the change, the power would surge like crazy at 3000 rpm. was almost like sitting in a turbo diesel. once the seals bedded in, the transition is very predictable now. definitely a job worth doing!
GPGrobler said:AndrewPF said:
You do not "floor" a car when it is cold, but yes my 320i also miserable when cold, even bogging down and loud popping through the exhaust when I even dare try to go faster.
Philip Foglar said:AndrewPF said:
It is, it's quite shocking! Just relieved that this sorted it out! Got the intake boot (the tube elbow) from Forsdicks Tygervalley, they had to get it from Auto Atlantic, only one in the Cape Peninsula. Paid R191 for which included a 10% discount, normally get 20%.
Here's some pics from this quick DIY:
All plain sailing until you get to the culprit, the lower intake boot, or tube elbow as RealOEM shows it as.
Remove this plastic panel that closes the DME compartment - it is secured by means of two simple plastic screw tabs that pop out. Then you can access the tricky to reach 6 mm hexagonal screw heads of the metal clamps holding this lower intake boot onto the ICV and throttle body.
DISA unit and then ICV removed.
The typical spot where these lower intake boots fail. And in my case I reckon it was still in the earlier stages such that it didn't cause an idle issue, but one heck of a hesitation, and pinging.
ICV wasn't stuck, just needed a bit of clean.
DISA unit seems healthy, and just needed a light clean.
The shiny new lower intake boot.
Everything back in place, and decided to clean the main intake boot a bit - rest of the engine bay will get a proper clean shortly!
And this done between 3 and 4 this afternoon in the blazing sun! :dizzy:
Awesome Philip, when did the 330i become part of the family? :clapper:
Nice DIY pics. Did all that and the car still bogs down before she pulls even when warm
Philip Foglar
///Member
Not sure if this was already asked and answered. Have you ruled out coil packs as being a cause? The 320i had a coil that got a bit weak and it would cause the engine to stutter from low speeds. It never had a misfire or idle issue, but the moment you set off from a rolling yield in 2nd or 3rd gear, it would stutter and bog down.
What about fuel pump/filter? Maybe worth having the fuel pressure tested.
What about fuel pump/filter? Maybe worth having the fuel pressure tested.
