Hi Guys
I am looking at buying a e36 325i (M50B25) Iron Block With Vanos
I have searched and found the following anything else I should check for ?
• Check for Noisy Vanos
• Engine temp must not be more than half as if it is its probably overheated
• Water Pump
• Damage to radiator from Clutch Fan
• Leaking Radiator on plastic corners
• On manual transmissions, 2nd gear can completely blow out, or it may refuse to go into 5th gear when cold. Though very rare, this problem is expensive and requires a rebuild or replacement altogether
• Power steering hose can leak. In worst cases, the condition eventually leads to hose failure, resulting in a loss of steering assist.
• Rear shock mount failure is a very common problem and can occur at as low as 20,000 miles. The symptoms begin with a dull clunking noise in the rear over bumps or rough roads, indicating that the shock piston rod has separated from the bushing mount. This can progress into metallic noises as the mount bolts shear off if not replaced in a timely fashion.
• During your test drive do pay attention to all the sounds inside the car, especially those coming from the back as they could point out such a problem. In order to fix it, E46 mounts can be installed but it's quite tricky to do so and might require some serious funds
• DME compartment flooding is a common problem for model years up to ’94. Symptoms are hard starting or no start condition after heavy rain or a car wash. Insufficient drainage allows water to collect in the intake plenum cowl for the heating/AC, and overflows into the DME compartment.
• Earlier E36s had issues regarding defective ignition coils from Zundspule and Bemis. They were replaced with Bosch coils. If you still have the older brands installed, replace them right away. Cracked coils can seriously damage the ECU.
• Inadequate water drainage and/or rust proofing on some models causes rusting at the bottom of the front passenger side fender where it meets the door so be sure to check those too.
• Clutch and Brake Shudder
• Check Aircon
• Check Power steering is not noisy and that it has fluid
• Make sure all warning lights come on line
• Check airflow meter is working
• Check Shocks
• Check Play on steering wheel
• Check looseness of Gearlever (bushes)
• Check Brakes, press hard make sure it doesn’t pull to 1 side
• Check if the car drives straight
• Turn the wheels all the way and drive in a circle to test for any suspension clunks
• Go over Speed bumps for any suspension clunks
• Knocking engine Noise at the bottom
• Loose metal sound on top of the motor could indicate of the timing chain issue
• Thick blue smoke from the exhaust when you start up and rev the engine with the gear in neutral or park is a bad sign - stay away from this one.
• Check the water in the radiator, this should be clean and oil free.
• A low level of oil or sludgy, black oil on the dipstick suggests infrequent oil changes and a lack of TLC (Tender Loving Care).
• Rev the motor and see for white smoke
• Check for oil leaks underneath the car
• Unscrupulous sellers could turn the speedometer back to make the kilometres appear less. Check that the speedometer digits aren’t crooked or scratched or that screws haven’t been tampered with.
• Wear and tear on the carpeting and rubber of the brake, clutch and accelerator pedals should be consistent with the age of the car.
• Check for mismatched paint on adjacent body panels, this could show that it has been in an accident.
• Peeling paint could later lead to rust.
• Check that the gaps between the body panels are equal in width and that any edges are flush with each other.
• Look out for obvious over-spraying - take a peek at the wires in the engine compartment or behind the door or window rubbers. This could mean that the car has accident damage.
• Uneven wearing of the tyres or “feathering” is a sign that the wheels are off-balance, the suspension is not aligned or the shock absorbers are worn.
• Check under car for damage and rust
• Check under mats and spare wheel for rust
• Check for Spongy Brakes
• Mods or missing engine covers
• Smell of burnt oil or antifreeze
• With the engine off, open the oil filler cap and look inside the engine; use your flashlight. If the internal engine parts that you can see are covered with thick black deposits, it's also an indication of poor engine condition.
• Listen for noisy diff
• Check propshaft
• When stopped at the red light, is the engine idling smoothly or rpms jumping up and down?
Thanks
I am looking at buying a e36 325i (M50B25) Iron Block With Vanos
I have searched and found the following anything else I should check for ?
• Check for Noisy Vanos
• Engine temp must not be more than half as if it is its probably overheated
• Water Pump
• Damage to radiator from Clutch Fan
• Leaking Radiator on plastic corners
• On manual transmissions, 2nd gear can completely blow out, or it may refuse to go into 5th gear when cold. Though very rare, this problem is expensive and requires a rebuild or replacement altogether
• Power steering hose can leak. In worst cases, the condition eventually leads to hose failure, resulting in a loss of steering assist.
• Rear shock mount failure is a very common problem and can occur at as low as 20,000 miles. The symptoms begin with a dull clunking noise in the rear over bumps or rough roads, indicating that the shock piston rod has separated from the bushing mount. This can progress into metallic noises as the mount bolts shear off if not replaced in a timely fashion.
• During your test drive do pay attention to all the sounds inside the car, especially those coming from the back as they could point out such a problem. In order to fix it, E46 mounts can be installed but it's quite tricky to do so and might require some serious funds
• DME compartment flooding is a common problem for model years up to ’94. Symptoms are hard starting or no start condition after heavy rain or a car wash. Insufficient drainage allows water to collect in the intake plenum cowl for the heating/AC, and overflows into the DME compartment.
• Earlier E36s had issues regarding defective ignition coils from Zundspule and Bemis. They were replaced with Bosch coils. If you still have the older brands installed, replace them right away. Cracked coils can seriously damage the ECU.
• Inadequate water drainage and/or rust proofing on some models causes rusting at the bottom of the front passenger side fender where it meets the door so be sure to check those too.
• Clutch and Brake Shudder
• Check Aircon
• Check Power steering is not noisy and that it has fluid
• Make sure all warning lights come on line
• Check airflow meter is working
• Check Shocks
• Check Play on steering wheel
• Check looseness of Gearlever (bushes)
• Check Brakes, press hard make sure it doesn’t pull to 1 side
• Check if the car drives straight
• Turn the wheels all the way and drive in a circle to test for any suspension clunks
• Go over Speed bumps for any suspension clunks
• Knocking engine Noise at the bottom
• Loose metal sound on top of the motor could indicate of the timing chain issue
• Thick blue smoke from the exhaust when you start up and rev the engine with the gear in neutral or park is a bad sign - stay away from this one.
• Check the water in the radiator, this should be clean and oil free.
• A low level of oil or sludgy, black oil on the dipstick suggests infrequent oil changes and a lack of TLC (Tender Loving Care).
• Rev the motor and see for white smoke
• Check for oil leaks underneath the car
• Unscrupulous sellers could turn the speedometer back to make the kilometres appear less. Check that the speedometer digits aren’t crooked or scratched or that screws haven’t been tampered with.
• Wear and tear on the carpeting and rubber of the brake, clutch and accelerator pedals should be consistent with the age of the car.
• Check for mismatched paint on adjacent body panels, this could show that it has been in an accident.
• Peeling paint could later lead to rust.
• Check that the gaps between the body panels are equal in width and that any edges are flush with each other.
• Look out for obvious over-spraying - take a peek at the wires in the engine compartment or behind the door or window rubbers. This could mean that the car has accident damage.
• Uneven wearing of the tyres or “feathering” is a sign that the wheels are off-balance, the suspension is not aligned or the shock absorbers are worn.
• Check under car for damage and rust
• Check under mats and spare wheel for rust
• Check for Spongy Brakes
• Mods or missing engine covers
• Smell of burnt oil or antifreeze
• With the engine off, open the oil filler cap and look inside the engine; use your flashlight. If the internal engine parts that you can see are covered with thick black deposits, it's also an indication of poor engine condition.
• Listen for noisy diff
• Check propshaft
• When stopped at the red light, is the engine idling smoothly or rpms jumping up and down?
Thanks
