The new daily - E46 330i Touring

Benji

Well-known member
Did a serious parts mission to Nelspruit this weekend - a combination of wanting to drive the car and giveaway pricing for rare parts.WhatsApp Image 2024-01-14 at 12.23.43_ba7fb64d.jpg

Ultra rare extended leather doorcards, nappa armrest and handbrake boot, individual door trims (because why not), full set of cube trim, MAF and a few other odds and ends.

Also got the key fobs working, it required me to cut open the key to change the battery - unnecessarily complicated.
 

Bernard///M3

BMW Car Club Member
Congrats Benji!!

So u coming to compete against the BMW Car Club Track Taxi at Track Days and Autocross 😜😂
 

Benji

Well-known member
I have been doing some troubleshooting on this car. Firstly the MAF was known to be bad and was "jippoed" when I bought the car, that has now been replaced, but then revealed erratic power at low revs, which I thought could have been a sticky throttle or ICV, so I cleaned those and found a massive vacuum leak in the ICV bellows. Vacuum leaks fixed, but car still drives erratically at low revs, I'm pretty sure it is the inlet cam sensor (Code 103 - CPS will be replaced this weekend). Hopefully the vanos seals are not completely stuffed.

I also thought I had a noisy idler pulley, so replaced them, but seems it is the powersteering pump making the noise. Lovely. At least a Topran pulley found its rightful home - in the bin :sick:
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Fitted a set of Style 68s on Eagle F1 Assy 6 :cool:
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I am surprised at how much worse the ride quality has become, definitely wont be doing M-sport suspension, but it needs to be lower...Hmmm...

Oh, it would seem I need new brakes...at least there wont be a lip on the disc when I remove it o_O Yes, it has been grinding for some time now...
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Tinuva

Staff & Webmaster
Staff member
Is this a narrow/wide set? I think the square style68 was for the M3 and the narrow/wide for the non-M3.

The narrow/wide set should make the car feel like it wants to keep going straight and makes turning slightly stiffer on the steering wheel. Also called, the car is now more prone to understeering.

One way to work around this feeling, is to make the tyre pressure the same on front and rear as oppposed to the oem reference of 2.2 front and 2.4 rear. What you do is set it to 2.4 all around. This will make the steering slightly easier. The goal however should be to choose the value closest that will allow all 4 tyres to wear as best possible. The rear you won't get perfect without changing the lower control arms with camber arms that are adjustable.

If you prefer the previous feeling where the car is more oversteer happy, you will need to go back to a square setup. Its the same thing people prefer for track cars.
 

Benji

Well-known member
Is this a narrow/wide set? I think the square style68 was for the M3 and the narrow/wide for the non-M3.

The narrow/wide set should make the car feel like it wants to keep going straight and makes turning slightly stiffer on the steering wheel. Also called, the car is now more prone to understeering.

One way to work around this feeling, is to make the tyre pressure the same on front and rear as oppposed to the oem reference of 2.2 front and 2.4 rear. What you do is set it to 2.4 all around. This will make the steering slightly easier. The goal however should be to choose the value closest that will allow all 4 tyres to wear as best possible. The rear you won't get perfect without changing the lower control arms with camber arms that are adjustable.

If you prefer the previous feeling where the car is more oversteer happy, you will need to go back to a square setup. Its the same thing people prefer for track cars.
Yeah it is a narrow and wide set. I was looking for a set of all-wides, but figured this is how BMW designed it and this is not a track/race car by any means, so just went with the flow on this one. Was in a bit of rush to get the wheels so I can sort the brakes. Have not driven it enough to notice any differences in handling yet, but will be experimenting with tyre pressures, at least to optimize the ride comfort lol
 

Peter@AEW

BMWFanatics Advertiser
Official Advertiser
You may wish to consider z4 m coupe lower front control arms as well as coil springs m3 shocks m3. It will drop it roughly 30mm
Small mod for the fronts and the rear just fits in .
If and when you ready give me a shout
 

Blue Shirt

Well-known member
Hi Benji, you already have my advice regarding the poor running of the engine. I just repeat a few points here in case someone else can also benefit:
  • Replace the CPS on the intake side and confirm wiring is still good
  • Eliminate all intake air leaks
  • Replace VANOS seals
  • Clean the VANOS oil pressure actuator
  • Check the DISA for proper functioning
Good luck with getting that M54B30 running smoothly again.
 

Benji

Well-known member
You may wish to consider z4 m coupe lower front control arms as well as coil springs m3 shocks m3. It will drop it roughly 30mm
Small mod for the fronts and the rear just fits in .
If and when you ready give me a shout
Thank you Peter...this is tempting but I dont think I will lower the car. Ive already scraped the bottom a few times at this height. Car does site missions and township parts missions.

I will need to do a suspension refresh...in the distant future. Just to confirm, is it not the Z4M lower control arm bushings that I need? Or are the whole LCAs interchangeable? I currently have M-sport LCAs which look a bit tired. I'll probably fit the E90 ix front strut mounts just to lower the front by 5mm and not loose any ride comfort.

Hi Benji, you already have my advice regarding the poor running of the engine. I just repeat a few points here in case someone else can also benefit:
  • Replace the CPS on the intake side and confirm wiring is still good
  • Eliminate all intake air leaks
  • Replace VANOS seals
  • Clean the VANOS oil pressure actuator
  • Check the DISA for proper functioning
Good luck with getting that M54B30 running smoothly again.
Thank you, will dig into this over the weekend and revert back
 

Tinuva

Staff & Webmaster
Staff member
Thank you Peter...this is tempting but I dont think I will lower the car. Ive already scraped the bottom a few times at this height. Car does site missions and township parts missions.

I will need to do a suspension refresh...in the distant future. Just to confirm, is it not the Z4M lower control arm bushings that I need? Or are the whole LCAs interchangeable? I currently have M-sport LCAs which look a bit tired. I'll probably fit the E90 ix front strut mounts just to lower the front by 5mm and not loose any ride comfort.


Thank you, will dig into this over the weekend and revert back

According to a threat on zhpmafia, the Z4 mounts will do 10mm. If you buy the sachs part you should save money.

you can also use the Z4 mounts (SACHS 802-066) to lower the front by 10mm without affecting suspension travel.
 

Tinuva

Staff & Webmaster
Staff member
View attachment 20412
This is how she stands without any weight in the back, having some internal monologue regarding the necessity of lowering the front...

Thank you, this is good info
Yeah if this car received the normal 330i springs and other suspension bits, I cant remember?, but I think Gizmo would do the front but not the back for tourings, you only want to lower front not rear. Stock 330i cars had the front always sit quite a bit higher than the rears. Always bugs me. So people usually only lower the front ever so slightly to even it out.
 

Benji

Well-known member
This car has brought about much head scratching to solve its drivability issues - as yet unsolved. I must extend gratitude to forum members Tinuva and Blue Shirt for their advice and time helping me learn this new platform. BMW Fanatics are awesome :)

I checked the functioning of my DISA valve, fixed a massive vacuum leak - replaced the intake boot and temp sensor O-ring and cleaned the vanos actuator (it was a bit sticky). I also cleaned the ICV and throttle body.
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I was getting erratic power delivery and intake CPS errors. I sourced an OEM CPS (had some aftermarket junk in there) and my CPS errors went away. The VANOS seems to be functioning well now, INPA command vs actual are tracking well. There is no longer that "bump" in power when one gets past 4000rpm. However, I do feel that it is down on power compared to how it had been when erratically functioning well. I have read on some dark corners of the internet that bad wheel speed sensors can cause drivability issues - so this is the next thing to fix. Which brings me to the 330i brake upgrade I did.

For reasons only known to BMW, the 330 has larger diff output shafts and requires the whole trailing arm assembly to be changed when upgrading to the 330i rear brakes. Upon installation, I noticed that one reluctor ring was missing, meaning the RR wheel speed does not read - cue no ABS, no traction control and unintentional sideways action at intersections. I think this may also put the car in a bit of a "limp mode" hence the slight lack of power. I f*$king hope so at this point anyway... My adaptations are well within limits and I am not getting any codes, except for 214 - Vehicle speed signal.
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After my horrendous experience with aftermarket brake discs, I bought OEM from the stealerships as we cant get ATE locally. I also changed the diff and gearbox fluids while the car was in the air.

Next up, I installed my black nappa handbrake boot. Im not sure I like it, I will try installing a black centre console (just need to source black cupholders) to see if that works better, otherwise I'll go back to my grey handbrake boot.
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I then managed to convince someone selling a non-runner township E46 to swap his M-tech 1 bumper with mine plus some change :cool: paint is not that great, but not any worse that my original bumper and matches the rest of the cars paint...also fitted a pair of clear front indicators which really modernizes the car - will change the fender indictors and source the blanking plates for the front bumper.
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Lastly, I found a set of 10mm spacers lying around, fitted them to the rear, but I feel like it could have another 5-10mm more poke...Has anyone here tried spacers on Style 68s? Im thinking 15mm all round, maybe 15mm in front, 20mm at the back...
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As always, the touring has been super useful:
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