Service spots

Thunder

///Member
Hey guys.

I was wondering if anybody has a place that does checks and services, that doesn`t charge a fortune?

have a few things on my car that I think needs to be replaced but would like to get a professional opinion beforehand.

Please help a rookie out.:praise:
 
D

Dippies

Guest
in order to aid you the best can you elaborate on the issues you are experiencing and in what area you are.......

Cause it does not help to recommend places in PTA if you reside in CT also what model. and if the car is still on motorplan?
 

Thunder

///Member
Ha ha Sorry yes I forgot about that part lol
I`m from the east rand in Gauteng
Well I think my power steering is going weird because turning left is harder than turning right, my brake and clutch pedal swivels from left to right, my clutch pedal has a type of bubble before you feel it working, and since this weekend after I resprayed my brake drums in the back I`ve got a weird knock every now and then.
Its a 94 E36 316I, not on a motor plan.
Any help will really be appreciated:ty:
 
D

Dippies

Guest
Thunder said:
Well I think my power steering is going weird because turning left is harder than turning right

I mite be mistaken but it does not make sense if it where power steering would cause harder Steering to both sides... I would check with steering rack, mite be bend, or obstructed, or worn "tie rod and steering" ends

The tie rod is part of the steering mechanism in a vehicle. A tie rod is a slender structural rod that is used as a tie and capable of carrying tensile loads only.

A tie rod consists of an inner and an outer end. The spokes on a bicycle’s wheels are tie rods. As the ratio of its length to the radius of gyration of its cross section is normally quite large, it would likely buckle under the action of compressive forces.

The tie rod transmits force from the steering center link or the rack gear to the steering knuckle. This will cause the wheel to turn. The outer tie rod end connects with an adjusting sleeve, which allows the length of the tie rod to be adjustable. This adjustment is used to set a vehicle’s alignment angle.

The working strength of the tie rod is that of the product of the allowable working stress and the minimum cross-sectional area. If the threads are cut into a cylindrical rod, that minimum area can be found at the root of the thread. Rods are often made thicker at the ends and this then means that the tie rod does not become weaker when the threads are cut into it.

Tie rods are connected at the ends in various ways. But it is desirable that the strength of the connection should be at least an equal strength to that of the rod. The ends can be threaded and then passed through drilled holes or shackles (this is a U-shaped piece of metal that is secured with a pin or bolt across the opening), and then retained by nuts that are screwed on the ends.

If the ends are threaded right hand and left hand, the length between the points of loading may be altered. This then brings a second method for prestressing the rod at will by turning it in the buts so that the length will be charged.

A turnbuckle (a device that is used for adjusting the tension in tie rods) can accomplish the same purpose. Another way of making any end connections is to forge an eye or hook on the rod.

It is advisable that your vehicle’s steering and suspension systems are checked regularly, at least once a year along with a complete wheel alignment. A worn tie rod can cause wandering, erratic steering and also major tire wear.

If a tie rod is necessary then a wheel alignment will also be required because tie rod replacement will disturb the alignment setting.
As the ratio of its length to the radius of gyration of its cross section is normally quite large, it would likely buckle under the action of compressive forces.

The tie rod transmits force from the steering center link or the rack gear to the steering knuckle. This will cause the wheel to turn. The outer tie rod end connects with an adjusting sleeve, which allows the length of the tie rod to be adjustable. This adjustment is used to set a vehicle’s alignment angle.

The working strength of the tie rod is that of the product of the allowable working stress and the minimum cross-sectional area. If the threads are cut into a cylindrical rod, that minimum area can be found at the root of the thread. Rods are often made thicker at the ends and this then means that the tie rod does not become weaker when the threads are cut into it.

Tie rods are connected at the ends in various ways. But it is desirable that the strength of the connection should be at least an equal strength to that of the rod. The ends can be threaded and then passed through drilled holes or shackles (this is a U-shaped piece of metal that is secured with a pin or bolt across the opening), and then retained by nuts that are screwed on the ends.

If the ends are threaded right hand and left hand, the length between the points of loading may be altered. This then brings a second method for prestressing the rod at will by turning it in the buts so that the length will be charged. A turnbuckle (a device that is used for adjusting the tension in tie rods) can accomplish the same purpose. Another way of making any end connections is to forge an eye or hook on the rod.

It is advisable that your vehicle’s steering and suspension systems are checked regularly, at least once a year along with a complete wheel alignment. A worn tie rod can cause wandering, erratic steering and also major tire wear. If a tie rod is necessary then a wheel alignment will also be required because tie rod replacement will disturb the alignment setting. I

I presume that you bought the car second hand, and the previous owner loved climbing pavements and or drove over something.

The second thing i would suggest that you change your power steering fluid and mite aid in the power steering pump performance. Also verify that the Power Steering pump is running when you turn the Steering wheel. All the parts mentioned needs to be checked and mite steer you in the right direction.


Thunder said:
my brake and clutch pedal swivels from left to right, my clutch pedal has a type of bubble before you feel it working, and since this weekend after I resprayed my brake drums in the back I`ve got a weird knock every now and then.


Its a 94 E36 316I
Any help will really be appreciated:ty:


Maybe someone else can advise on the Clutch problems.

Hope this helps and you get it sorted soon...


Is there someone else that can verify this. or aid in the Response this is my 2 cents
 

Thunder

///Member
Thanx for the info Dippies, but if it was the tie rod wouldn`t it have been picked up in a wheel alignment? As i got that done on the 14th after I switched from my stock 15 inch wheels to 17 inch mags.
Before the switch, the steering wheel will turn up to about 30 to 45 degrees than feel like it got stuck, and the jump futher, but only to the left.
I don`t mind to pay for someone to fix it, but most of the guys now a days charge you an arm and a leg just to check and tell you whats wrong.
 
D

Dippies

Guest
It would def been picked up in the Wheel alignment, but then i would suggest that you grab a pair of overalls and get under neath the car to check the whole steering rack. Including the Tierod and steering ends, yourself. cause a bend Tie rod and steering end gives the same issues,

Does the pump work when the car is idling and you turn the steering wheel.

how often do you replace your power steering fluid?
I think the life span is 2 years.

I was wondering about the Power steering because i owned a 1994 316I E36 and never experienced the same problem when i upgraded the wheels to 17inch and i had lowered suspension 40mm drop.

I think that you will have to go through a process of elimination on this one and check all the parts From Steering rack - Power Steering pump.

Hope someone can aid you in this
 

Thunder

///Member
I myself have never replaced the pump, but do have a smallish leak on the pipe under the reservoir (as they call it).
It does hum from time to time, then i just top up the fluid, haven`t had the time to replace the pipe yet, don`t really know where to get one though. Will have to have a look this weekend on the rack because this steering issue is really becoming a problem.
 

Peter@AEW

BMWFanatics Advertiser
Official Advertiser
Your rack is worn and your clutch is worn.
Clutch is typically R1500 and a rack overhaul about the same.
Both excluding labour.

Call Shaun at 0832731840 he is out your side.
 
Top