ready to set this thing on fire please help

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Psymon69

Guest
I think we did check all this. it really sounds like a spark problem but ive got new wires, swopped out rotor and cap and coil so theres nothing left. ive checked that wire and seems all good. the mech also originally said spark system but all that has been ruled out.

but this petrol thing I dont get...
 
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Psymon69

Guest
swopped it with a good one and it made absolutely no difference. can the pickup on lead 6 cause this? im asking because the new leads are not OEM ones, should the thickness interfere with the signal?
but then again the car was doing this before the new leads also:thumbdo:
 

rick540

///Member
Crank sensor or valve timing I think is all that is left.

The pickup on # six is for injector timing on startup, it should be connected, plug leads should not stop it from working.
 
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Psymon69

Guest
is it as easy as plug out that sensor above the wheel on the crank? or must it be the whole wire up to the top where it plugs in? or can it not separate?

sorry for all the questions, just want to figure out if I can go to my buddy and do it one afternoon.

just want to say the car is much better again on this fuel. pulled a few times today and was sooo much fun having a car hardly missing at all! second and third is a beast with the lightened fly!:inlove:
 

rick540

///Member
Psymon69 said:
is it as easy as plug out that sensor above the wheel on the crank? or must it be the whole wire up to the top where it plugs in? or can it not separate?

sorry for all the questions, just want to figure out if I can go to my buddy and do it one afternoon.

just want to say the car is much better again on this fuel. pulled a few times today and was sooo much fun having a car hardly missing at all! second and third is a beast with the lightened fly!:inlove:

It's the sensor by the toothed wheel/pulley assembly, and yes together with the wrire right up to the top.

 

Raybimmer

New member
You unscrew the cap head at the bracket on the right side at the front of the block and the wire runs to the plug under the inlet manifold - has one of those wire clips to release it .
 
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Psymon69

Guest
ah ok then. yes ive had a look at that contraption and traced the wires when I got the car, as my 323 did not have this electronic timing. ill try and line up a working one, seems easy and quick enough to swop out.

thanx guys!
 

Raybimmer

New member
The early 325i motor had the sensor at the back of the motor ,the later one with distributor on the front on the cam had the sensor on the front of the motor . Check the sensor wire for wear marks , you may be lucky and see a chafe mark or two . Good luck .
 
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Psymon69

Guest
ya my 323 had the distributor on the block. thanx will have a look when I get a chance. will probably only be the weekend as work is picking up and then its dark when I get home.:yuck:
 
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Psymon69

Guest
okay I think i owe it to the fanatics to tell them i have fixed the problem. i also think you guys need to know how stupid i am. VERY embarrassed about what was causing the problem. almost 6 months of troubleshooting and who knows what the hell else.

anyway, it was the plugs. I had in bpR6es and it should have been bp6es. I feel like a complete tool and that I should never open the bonnet of my car again.

let the ridicule begin:nonono:
 
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Psymon69

Guest
moranor said:
lol well least its fixed now :rollsmile:

its like i can enjoy the car for the first time! had a nice spirited drive with Guetzer last night.
 
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Psymon69

Guest
hmmm was thinking of fixing the aircon (so making it slower haha) or tackle the dash lights (which of NONE come on) OR if a LSD comes by at a good price id love that.

any other suggestions?
 
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Psymon69

Guest
Normal stuff like exhaust and branch. Also a nice and light flywheel. Inside thers a little sound, but with the m20 growling i hardly listen to it.

I do think i must focus more on fixing little things, to up the value of the car. These cars go for stupid money if they are well looked after like this one.
 
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