Proper Oil for my e36 m3 coupe

[hoosain]

i use total quartz 9000 in my 4 door a briliant oil try it out

 

[calypso]

The thing is that I have been looking around. A lot of the Guys in the US use 000W50 or 0W40 some even use 0W30. While we use TWS in our cars here.

The guys in the US have a different engine to ours. They also have to deal with much lower temperatures in winter.

 

[ClassicB]

Plugs for the 3.0lt-
NGK: PKR7A (alternative- DCPR8EVX)
Bosch: Y 5 DDC

i could be wrong but thats from the catologues.
anyone know if this is right?

Plugs, get from dealer.(Dont mess around with wrong plugs on a m3)

Why do you say this Prin? have you had a bad experience?


Yup, spare shop gave me NGK's for my 3.0L it ran terrribly, changed to the Bosch Y5DDC, and there was a huge difference i say stick to the dealers, because if you go to spare shops they will tell you they dont have the bosch,& give you some other crap plug which they say is for your car.

3.2 and 3.0l does take a different plug.

 

[Yuvan]

No not Bosch. BMW use NGK for m3.

Eish the ///M is always special in every way compared to its smaller siblings, BMW usually gives me bosch for the 320i and 328i!

 

[Fordkoppie]

Plugs for the 3.0lt-
NGK: PKR7A (alternative- DCPR8EVX)
Bosch: Y 5 DDC

i could be wrong but thats from the catologues.
anyone know if this is right?

I actually used the NGK DCPR8EVX in my ex e36 M3(s50b30) and they were perfect.
Then some clown managed to convince me after about 5000km that the car would be smoother with the OEM Bosch plugs, so I changed them again for the OEM ones and there were absolutely no difference in the car’s runnings.
Different story but the rough idle was caused by worn vanos.
The DCPR8EVX is one with a thin tungsten electrode and should last very long if you are not constantly in heavy traffic and doing short trips. That is because the DCPR8EVX is a “colder” plug than the OEM one, so chances of detonation is reduced.

 

[Dogland]

Use 15W40 or 10W60.

I used 5W40 in my M3 (3.2) and it definitely ran hotter..its just not the right oil for our climate.

 

[kabal]

isnt the part before the W the visosity at a cold temperature?

once the oil is at operating temp, a 15W40 is identical to a 5W40 no???

 

[Fordkoppie]

isnt the part before the W the visosity at a cold temperature?

once the oil is at operating temp, a 15W40 is identical to a 5W40 no???

Yes and no.
I would rather say very similar than identical

 

[Dogland]

Believe this will help you...

http://www.shell.com/home/page/zaf/.../oils_lubricants/lubematch/app_lubematch.html

 

[calypso]

Or this:
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/iframe.do?categoryId=9024084&contentId=7044829

How hot your engine run with 5w40? And how hard was it being driven?

 

[Dogland]

Well happened twice....relatively hard it was JUST JUST past the middle mark.

I was doing about 200km/h and noticed the needle...immediately backed off.

When I had 15W40 oil I did 245km/h and oil temp was fine.

Heres my silly sketch...but hey its somthing. :rollsmile:

 

[Mike1]

Dude, where did I recommend TWS? :thumbdo:

I would have recommended the Liqui Moly equivalent, a much newer, better specced and more advanced oil...

---

once the oil is at operating temp, a 15W40 is identical to a 5W40 no???

Partially correct in that the tested Viscosity of the oil will be the same, however that doesn't account for the additive package within the oil itself.

An example:

Oil Brand A - 15W40
Oil Brand B - 15W40

Oil brand A is cheap oil, contains very little Manufacturer approvals and is a SG API specced oil.

Oil brand B is good stuff, has BMW approvals, the latest Longlife Rating and is the current API SM spec.

Although both A&B will be at the same viscosity, oil brand B will have a better wear additive, a more advanced polymer giving it a greater ability to withstand heat, a lower burn rate and other additives like anti-foaming and anti rust.

Cheaper oils do not have these properties or are not as advanced which means that yes they are both the same viscosity, but dont necessary perform the same.

You must remember that oil comes from a base to which additives are added. All lubricants share the same base, its the additives which make oils different.

isnt the part before the W the visosity at a cold temperature?

Correct. This is the viscosity of the oil when poured at 0 degrees Celsius. The lower the number the thinner the oil as well as the better startup circulation and protection.

Mike

 

[McFly]

I wonder if anyone can sugest a good oil and plugs to use in my e36 m3 coupe.Its got 107000km on clock and i wanted to have it serviced with proper stuff

Castrol Magnatec will never let you down. For your plugs try NGK BKR6EIX. You should get better performance from them.

No offence, but those are the wrong plugs for a E36 M3.

The BKR6EK are the standard plugs for e36's but the BKR6EIX give better perfomance. They are Iridium plugs with the same gap as the EK's. They are like an upgrade for the engine. Check on the NGK website.

 

[kabal]

thanks mike.

what I was alluding to, is that, given the "same spec" (loosely termed) a 5W40 will make no differnce in normal operating temperature compared to a 15W40

 

[Mike1]

No, not in terms of Viscosity no. Startup will be affected though. :thumbs:

 

[Prego]

Thanks for all the advice guys-seems like i started a small debate

 

[calypso]

Well happened twice....relatively hard it was JUST JUST past the middle mark.

I was doing about 200km/h and noticed the needle...immediately backed off.

When I had 15W40 oil I did 245km/h and oil temp was fine.

Heres my silly sketch...but hey its somthing. :rollsmile:

Thats water temp, what did the oil do? Limit for oil is 130 then you need to chill out.