Please help e46 due test in 3 weeks

stevejbourke

New member
Hi, I'm a newbie to the forum. I'm having some issues with my e46 318i. I'm getting vvt error codes p1062 and p1031. I checked the wiring and found a little oil in the eccentric shaft sensor, the o ring was cut. I cleaned it out with contact spray and dried everything off and plugged it back in. The codes came right back after driving for a while. The car doesnt go in to slow mode and seems to run ok. Its a little rough on idle but nothing bad. When I delete the codes it seems to run smoother. While I had the covers off I noticed a small cut in the hose that connects the MAF to the throttle. I have tapped this well and am sure I have no leaks. A few weeks back I got a MAF fault code but I deleted it and it hasn't come back in the last 4 weeks. 6 months ago I drove it home on 3 cylinders, I replaced the coil pack nearest the windscreen and it was running fine for a week and it failed on that coil pack again. I put the old coil pack in and its running fine since. I also replaced the battery with a heavy duty. Maybe I'm unlucky with parts failing at the same time but can any of these faults be related? What should I do next with the VVT problem? New sensor or motor?Has anyone had any similar problems and how were they fixed? Any help would be great
 

zaleonardz

Well-known member
Check on the VVT motor between the two poles and the body of the motor if you have infinate resistance.

Any resistance value, and your VVT motor is on its way out,

The fact that you are actually getting error messeges is a good thing, cause it means that there is something wrong.

Replacing the sensor is a massive pain in the butt, and if you do, DO NOT drop the sensor screws in the motor, or you will be at the very least dropping the oil pan.

Can I also suggest that you get some proper diagnostics tools, INPA at the least to give you better error descriptions.

Also note that if you do change the VVT motor, you have to do a re-calibration using DIS or ISIS.
 

Philip Foglar

///Member
I suspect that this is the 318i that has valvetronic like the N52 engines - the eccentric shaft sensor often gets oil contamination for a simple oil leak and in most cases I gather it then needs to be replaced. With the N52 6 cyl motors when this fails the engine idles erratically.
 

stevejbourke

New member
zaleonardz@DentDoctor said:
Check on the VVT motor between the two poles and the body of the motor if you have infinate resistance.

Any resistance value, and your VVT motor is on its way out,

The fact that you are actually getting error messeges is a good thing, cause it means that there is something wrong.

Replacing the sensor is a massive pain in the butt, and if you do, DO NOT drop the sensor screws in the motor, or you will be at the very least dropping the oil pan.

Can I also suggest that you get some proper diagnostics tools, INPA at the least to give you better error descriptions.

Also note that if you do change the VVT motor, you have to do a re-calibration using DIS or ISIS.


How come the sensor is a pain to replace? Just downloaded Inpa and ordered cable online. The re-calibration on the motor, is this something that can be done at home or is it a specialist job? any ideas for parts on motor and sensor? Thanks for the reply.:praise:


Philip Foglar said:
I suspect that this is the 318i that has valvetronic like the N52 engines - the eccentric shaft sensor often gets oil contamination for a simple oil leak and in most cases I gather it then needs to be replaced. With the N52 6 cyl motors when this fails the engine idles erratically.

Thanks for reply, when you talk about oil contamination do you mean on the plug connection side? The oil-dust seal is cut on the sensor and it had oil in the socket, not much but a little.
 

Philip Foglar

///Member
stevejbourke said:
zaleonardz@DentDoctor said:
Check on the VVT motor between the two poles and the body of the motor if you have infinate resistance.

Any resistance value, and your VVT motor is on its way out,

The fact that you are actually getting error messeges is a good thing, cause it means that there is something wrong.

Replacing the sensor is a massive pain in the butt, and if you do, DO NOT drop the sensor screws in the motor, or you will be at the very least dropping the oil pan.

Can I also suggest that you get some proper diagnostics tools, INPA at the least to give you better error descriptions.

Also note that if you do change the VVT motor, you have to do a re-calibration using DIS or ISIS.


How come the sensor is a pain to replace? Just downloaded Inpa and ordered cable online. The re-calibration on the motor, is this something that can be done at home or is it a specialist job? any ideas for parts on motor and sensor? Thanks for the reply.:praise:


Philip Foglar said:
I suspect that this is the 318i that has valvetronic like the N52 engines - the eccentric shaft sensor often gets oil contamination for a simple oil leak and in most cases I gather it then needs to be replaced. With the N52 6 cyl motors when this fails the engine idles erratically.

Thanks for reply, when you talk about oil contamination do you mean on the plug connection side? The oil-dust seal is cut on the sensor and it had oil in the socket, not much but a little.



It's a pain because if it is anything like the N52 engines this means the valve cover has to come off, and from what I've heard, it's not as simple as the E46 (M54 engines) valve cover. Why it is not as simple I must still find out, maybe less working space to begin with, but not sure what else.
 

stevejbourke

New member
Iceman007 said:
stevejbourke said:
I need to do valve cover gasket anyway, get an oil smell sometimes. God I miss my E36 :)

Oil smell = Vacuum pump :fencelook:

Isnt valve cover gasket not a common thing to cause this? Is the Vacuum pump a big job? I only get the smell sometimes, normally before car is up to temp.:argh:
 
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