discussion New Member. Obd2 dead

[Beamer 73]

Good Morning

This is my 1st post, and I am looking forward to great results.

I have a 2007, 320i with high mileage. I have multiple fault codes. Which I hope to discuss later and get some solutions. I however can't go forward without resolving my 1st issue, with good reason. My Obd2 port has no power, when tool is plugged in. I have checked the f58 fuse for display and obd. Which was only as a precaution, as my dash display was working fine. Fuse was fine. I tried to check current flow with a multimeter on obd (left bottom pin) , and is problematic on its own. (pin of meter VS size on plug female pin obd, earth and not a sparky) But can't say with certainty if there is a problem or not. It however did not lit up or had any reading on meter. I did not try the battery disconnect 'trick' found on YouTube, and I am currently not sure if it will work or if I will get a solution. I can't, like I said, go forward with out resolving this 1st as it will determine the identification of other faults problems and its fix. Your help and input is appreciated.

 

[QikNish]

I'd check the DME also... With multiple faults, you possibly have an issue there? Or could just be broken pins in the obd port. Wiggle the connector around. Try another connector.

 

[Tinuva]

Silly question I guess, but you did turn the ignition key to the position just before the engine start?

 

[Beamer 73]

I have tried on and off just in case. Just the key in and pressed in(on) like I said. I plugged it into my daughter audi and it lit up immediately.

 

[Kyle]

Silly question I guess, but you did turn the ignition key to the position just before the engine start?

07 so E90, he would have to press the start button without his foot on the brake...


@Beamer 73 you mentioned some other error codes on the car, when last was your battery replaced?

 

[Beamer 73]

Funny you are mentioning that. I considered it to be a possible problem. As I had a power failure when I did some window tinting( interior lights on). Run flat. I bought the 320 from a guy who did not care much I must admit. (ONLY REALIZED THAT LATER) No fault codes, idling perfectly, selecting auto 100%. Then there was a noice from the exhaust(rattling), gearbox light came on, engine light came on. Idling erratic. I started it this morning. All codes still there but idling nice. Even in drive. Display on my radio clear (I thought radio was faulty as light display were not fully lit up) can read all info on radio perfectly now. But obviously I need to check all possibilities through the obd to illiminate all possiblities. I will check the obd now, after my radio self repair. Might be voltage drops on the battery.

Can the problem be so simple?

This for your input. Awesome.

 

[Beamer 73]

Thx for your input.

 

[Kyle]

Funny you are mentioning that. I considered it to be a possible problem. As I had a power failure when I did some window tinting( interior lights on). Run flat. I bought the 320 from a guy who did not care much I must admit. (ONLY REALIZED THAT LATER) No fault codes, idling perfectly, selecting auto 100%. Then there was a noice from the exhaust(rattling), gearbox light came on, engine light came on. Idling erratic. I started it this morning. All codes still there but idling nice. Even in drive. Display on my radio clear (I thought radio was faulty as light display were not fully lit up) can read all info on radio perfectly now. But obviously I need to check all possibilities through the obd to illiminate all possiblities. I will check the obd now, after my radio self repair. Might be voltage drops on the battery.

Can the problem be so simple?

This for your input. Awesome.

It's difficult to say for sure, however these cars are VERY sensitive towards battery voltages (Even if the car swings fine). If you have no record of when it was last replaced then I would start there.

 

[Beamer 73]

I am going to do exactly that. Not the cheapest starting point. But initial cost VS possible elimination of other more expensive faults. Worth the change. Will test battery of course 1st.

 

[Kyle]

I am going to do exactly that. Not the cheapest starting point. But initial cost VS possible elimination of other more expensive faults. Worth the change. Will test battery of course 1st.

There have been times when a battery "tested" fine but replacing it solved some of the errors you mentioned.

Definitely not the cheapest thing thing to do, and if you had a record of it being replaced recently then I would have advised you to start looking elsewhere for the fault.

 

[Beamer 73]

Awesome. Will give feedback.

 

[Beamer 73]

It's a new battery. Date on it is Jan 2021.hiwever it's a 652. Bmw guidelines suggest a 668. Can this battery be inferior to amps etc?

 

[Beamer 73]

I see on Google. The 652 is 70amps/h while the 668 is 80amp/h. Will that make such a big difference?

 

[Dr Evil]

I see on Google. The 652 is 70amps/h while the 668 is 80amp/h. Will that make such a big difference?

Yep big difference also the CCA will be less which helps with cold starts.


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[Beamer 73]

I'd check the DME also... With multiple faults, you possibly have an issue there? Or could just be broken pins in the obd port. Wiggle the connector around. Try another connector.

Thx Dr. Evil, mind me asking. What does DME stand for? too many variables on the net🙈

 

[Beamer 73]

ecu? how do i check it?

 

[Tinuva]

If the dme was faulty the engine wouldn't be able to run at all

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