My first car: GTi MK2 16v

[330Tractor]

Hi guys

So my dad recently bought me my first car.
It's a 1992 Golf MK2 GTi 16v.

I would appreciate it if I could get advice,
My alternator belt snapped a month ago, and the car couldn't start, we hooked it up directly on the battery with jumper cables via my dad's tractor and tried firing her up like that, since then she has been idling at 3500rpm constantly.
We replaced the belt, cleaned the injectors, as well as the spark plugs, replaced the intake gasket and it's still idling so high.
Could it be that the management system was damaged or the tuning went out when we jumped the car?
(Management is a Dicktator STD)

Thanks in advance. :blowheart:

 

[WIDEOPN-X5]

I know very little about electronics (as I may be about to reveal) but is there perhaps a difference in voltage between the tractor system and the car? 24v vs 12v....

I know from my early years in the shipping industry dealing with trucks in particular that were discharged from ships then wouldn't start. The stevedores would always have to have a 24v booster pack on standby to start them up.

If I'm right then maybe this has damaged the dicktator system?

 

[Gizmo]

Dictator is garbage and is most probably the issue if it isn't a vacuum leak.

 

[Nick]

If it has the that old injection system, its gona give you headaches for days.
It has a flappy thing on the right of the engine bay where the pipes all sit, if that is dirty then it wont operate correcly and will effect the idling.
I had my system rebuilt before it started working 100%.
Maybe take a pic of the engine bay so i can see what system it has.


Coil was also a problem, it would over heat and make all the rest of the electronics go haywire.

 

[Nick]

Fuel pump at the rear wheel (cant remeber which side) also can affect the car.

I went thro 2 of them in my time.

 

[MikeR]

:withStu: as its an old car I would advice checking / replacing as much of the rubber hoses & fuel pipes as possible first then move onto the electronics.

when you say Tractor - do you mean the 330d in your title ?, advice when jump starting in the future:-
1. Place both vehicles in Park or Neutral and shut off the ignition in both cars.
2.Attach one of the red clips to the positive terminal of your battery.
It has “POS” or “+” on it, or it’s bigger than the negative terminal.
3. Attach the other red clip to the positive terminal of the other car.
4. Attach one of the black clips to the negative terminal on the other battery.
5. Attach the last black clip to an unpainted metal surface on your car that isn’t near the battery. Use one of the metal struts that holds the hood open.
To jump start a car, you'll need to make sure you connect the jumper cables in the proper order.
6. Start the working vehicle and let the engine run for a few minutes.
Try to start your vehicle.
7. If it won’t start, make sure that the cables are properly connected and run the engine for five minutes. Then try to start your car again. If it still won’t start, your battery may be beyond help.

 

[Boss Wit NOS]

Hi guys

So my dad recently bought me my first car.
It's a 1992 Golf MK2 GTi 16v.

I would appreciate it if I could get advice,
My alternator belt snapped a month ago, and the car couldn't start, we hooked it up directly on the battery with jumper cables via my dad's tractor and tried firing her up like that, since then she has been idling at 3500rpm constantly.
We replaced the belt, cleaned the injectors, as well as the spark plugs, replaced the intake gasket and it's still idling so high.
Could it be that the management system was damaged or the tuning went out when we jumped the car?
(Management is a Dicktator STD)

Thanks in advance. :blowheart:

yeah just be careful when jump starting a car with aftermarket management, I think your cold start could of went out when u jump started the car, how long do you idle the car? does the revs go down at all once the car has warmed up?

 

[DINODENASH]

Nice car man !
Also had a 1988 MK2 GTi 16v back in the day

I suggest you join the VW club of South Africa
Pending where you based and don't come right, search for user name panic-mechanic and make contact -
(Stephan van Tonder - Jhb - Putfontein Benoni)

He knows these cars through the back of his head !
Good luck

 

[330Tractor]

Dictator is garbage and is most probably the issue if it isn't a vacuum leak.

As soon as i'm done with school, i'm gonna fit spitronics :tiptoe:

---

Fuel pump at the rear wheel (cant remeber which side) also can affect the car.

I went thro 2 of them in my time.

There you go.

---

:withStu: as its an old car I would advice checking / replacing as much of the rubber hoses & fuel pipes as possible first then move onto the electronics.

when you say Tractor - do you mean the 330d in your title ?, advice when jump starting in the future:-
1. Place both vehicles in Park or Neutral and shut off the ignition in both cars.
2.Attach one of the red clips to the positive terminal of your battery.
It has “POS” or “+” on it, or it’s bigger than the negative terminal.
3. Attach the other red clip to the positive terminal of the other car.
4. Attach one of the black clips to the negative terminal on the other battery.
5. Attach the last black clip to an unpainted metal surface on your car that isn’t near the battery. Use one of the metal struts that holds the hood open.
To jump start a car, you'll need to make sure you connect the jumper cables in the proper order.
6. Start the working vehicle and let the engine run for a few minutes.
Try to start your vehicle.
7. If it won’t start, make sure that the cables are properly connected and run the engine for five minutes. Then try to start your car again. If it still won’t start, your battery may be beyond help.

Yeah it was a 330D,
We know how to jump a car :biglol:

---

Hi guys

So my dad recently bought me my first car.
It's a 1992 Golf MK2 GTi 16v.

I would appreciate it if I could get advice,
My alternator belt snapped a month ago, and the car couldn't start, we hooked it up directly on the battery with jumper cables via my dad's tractor and tried firing her up like that, since then she has been idling at 3500rpm constantly.
We replaced the belt, cleaned the injectors, as well as the spark plugs, replaced the intake gasket and it's still idling so high.
Could it be that the management system was damaged or the tuning went out when we jumped the car?
(Management is a Dicktator STD)

Thanks in advance. :blowheart:

yeah just be careful when jump starting a car with aftermarket management, I think your cold start could of went out when u jump started the car, how long do you idle the car? does the revs go down at all once the car has warmed up?

On a cold start it idles low, but when the car heats up the revs goes to 3500 constant.

---

There she is :rollsmile:

 

[Nick]

That looks different to what mine did.
Mine had a bog black box thing on the right hand side.

 

[330Tractor]

That looks different to what mine did.
Mine had a bog black box thing on the right hand side.

Do you mean the standard ecu box?

 

[Nick]

mine looked like this.

 

[330Tractor]

mine looked like this.

Oh i see what you mean, the previous owner fitted a K&N cone filter.

 

[Bazza]

Still one of my favourite cars of all time, LOVE me a golf jumbo!! Look after her and good luck with the repair.

 

[Ebo]

Loved my Jumbo GTi, and further down the line I had the Jetta Cli 16v both blue metallic. Would probably still of had both ,but alas somebody grew tired of me refusing the sale and decided to expropriate both cars!

 

[Lostboy]

@OP, It sounds like your management might be playing tricks on you, its weird you saying that the car gets up to 3500rpms when at operating temp, when on cold start up, does your rev needle jump around or stays steady and works it way down or up ?

I would check the throttle body as the idle air by-pass port tends to get dirty this is located in the throttle body (small little hole) just before the 1stage flap, 2ndly i would check for any air leaks/or replace the old rubbers close and around the throttle 3rdly your distributor check for any play, i cant remember if theses cars came out with the advance vacuum set up on the dizzy. if it has a small rubber running to the throttle, replace or check for leaks

Nick you had the 1.8 KR 16v set up and using the old KJET fuel injection set up.

 

[MarshallGTi]

mine looked like this.

Nick, thats the original K-jet injection, the flap was for fuel metering. Youngsters dumped that (probably a good idea) in favour of letting Dictator run the fuel.

@330Tractor, see if you can find the dictator software and a base map for a 16v, sounds like during the flat battery/jump start process the ECU lost/forgot the tuned map and has gone into a sort of safe-mode. Otherwise a decent tuner who knows dictator should be able to help, definitely get hold of Panic on the VW forum, dudes a genius especially on older VW stuff.

Doubt it would be a vacuum leak, any problem with vacuum on a 16v or problem on the idle valve, the idle is very erratic and usually below 900rpm

 

[VictorMike]

mine looked like this.

is that... a bungee cord holding your battery?

 

[330Tractor]

@OP, It sounds like your management might be playing tricks on you, its weird you saying that the car gets up to 3500rpms when at operating temp, when on cold start up, does your rev needle jump around or stays steady and works it way down or up ?

I would check the throttle body as the idle air by-pass port tends to get dirty this is located in the throttle body (small little hole) just before the 1stage flap, 2ndly i would check for any air leaks/or replace the old rubbers close and around the throttle 3rdly your distributor check for any play, i cant remember if theses cars came out with the advance vacuum set up on the dizzy. if it has a small rubber running to the throttle, replace or check for leaks

Nick you had the 1.8 KR 16v set up and using the old KJET fuel injection set up.

On a cold start, it idles fine for 2 mins then it slowly goes up to 3500. And when you rev it, it goes up, then down to 3500.

We cleaned the whole throttle body with so alcohol spray, checked for leaks and got nothing. But whats weird is when I plug the management halfway it, it idles at low rpm's but is taking in a lot of air. I'm going to take it for tuning next week and hopefully it resolves my issue.

---

mine looked like this.

Nick, thats the original K-jet injection, the flap was for fuel metering. Youngsters dumped that (probably a good idea) in favour of letting Dictator run the fuel.

@330Tractor, see if you can find the dictator software and a base map for a 16v, sounds like during the flat battery/jump start process the ECU lost/forgot the tuned map and has gone into a sort of safe-mode. Otherwise a decent tuner who knows dictator should be able to help, definitely get hold of Panic on the VW forum, dudes a genius especially on older VW stuff.

Doubt it would be a vacuum leak, any problem with vacuum on a 16v or problem on the idle valve, the idle is very erratic and usually below 900rpm

She is going in next week for a tune :rollsmile: