M3 advise

V'NOLAN

Member
Hi guys, I'm new to the forum and bmw owners club.

I need some advise, I've just purchased a 95 e36 German spec M3 and need to do a major service and change all the pulleys, belts and control arm rubbers/ bushes

Do I need to buy all these parts from BMW or does pirate / after market parts work just as good? I don't want to be penny wise pound foolish and sit with a headache later on

What do you guys suggest or who can I contact ?
 

444YYY

Honorary ///Member
Original BMW parts only!!! If u want the car to perform as designed... Keep it OEM.
Post some pics of your car please...:)
 

Peejay

Events Organiser
OEM for belts, pulleys, filters and rubbers. Oil and plugs can be bought else where
 

BillyBob

Active member
As much as i agree with the keep it OEM statement, Dependent on what the car gets used for, aftermarket poly-urethane bushes might suit your purposes better if you're a very enthusiastic type of driver who likes getting it sideways often.

Same goes for pulleys - the stock water pump pulley is plastic, wich can get brittle with time.. A few specialist online companies have alloy underdrive pulley kits available, that effectively free up a few more horsepower by reducing parasitic drag losses. These will also last forever and a day if you get a proper set.

BMC and K&N also make replacement drop-in air filters for the stock airbox, which will last you forever with regular cleaning, frees up a tiny bit of horsepower, and won't gunk up your MAF provided you're conservative with filter oil application.

Pirate items are a no-no - use original belts, oil and service items as far as possible and stay away from your local spares shop when it comes to your M3... But bear in mind that the aftermarket scene caters for some awesome goodies for the M3's, which would actually make more power / last longer than the equivalent OEM BMW bits.
 

Karthik

New member
BillyBob said:
As much as i agree with the keep it OEM statement, Dependent on what the car gets used for, aftermarket poly-urethane bushes might suit your purposes better if you're a very enthusiastic type of driver who likes getting it sideways often.

Same goes for pulleys - the stock water pump pulley is plastic, wich can get brittle with time.. A few specialist online companies have alloy underdrive pulley kits available, that effectively free up a few more horsepower by reducing parasitic drag losses. These will also last forever and a day if you get a proper set.

BMC and K&N also make replacement drop-in air filters for the stock airbox, which will last you forever with regular cleaning, frees up a tiny bit of horsepower, and won't gunk up your MAF provided you're conservative with filter oil application.

Pirate items are a no-no - use original belts, oil and service items as far as possible and stay away from your local spares shop when it comes to your M3... But bear in mind that the aftermarket scene caters for some awesome goodies for the M3's, which would actually make more power / last longer than the equivalent OEM BMW bits.


This guy seems to know what he seems to be talking about so what he said :)
 

msm

Well-known member
BillyBob said:
As much as i agree with the keep it OEM statement, Dependent on what the car gets used for, aftermarket poly-urethane bushes might suit your purposes better if you're a very enthusiastic type of driver who likes getting it sideways often.

Same goes for pulleys - the stock water pump pulley is plastic, wich can get brittle with time.. A few specialist online companies have alloy underdrive pulley kits available, that effectively free up a few more horsepower by reducing parasitic drag losses. These will also last forever and a day if you get a proper set.

BMC and K&N also make replacement drop-in air filters for the stock airbox, which will last you forever with regular cleaning, frees up a tiny bit of horsepower, and won't gunk up your MAF provided you're conservative with filter oil application.

Pirate items are a no-no - use original belts, oil and service items as far as possible and stay away from your local spares shop when it comes to your M3... But bear in mind that the aftermarket scene caters for some awesome goodies for the M3's, which would actually make more power / last longer than the equivalent OEM BMW bits.

+1 on all except for the air filter. I'd keep that OEM and change it at regular intervals.
 

V'NOLAN

Member
BillyBob said:
As much as i agree with the keep it OEM statement, Dependent on what the car gets used for, aftermarket poly-urethane bushes might suit your purposes better if you're a very enthusiastic type of driver who likes getting it sideways often.

Same goes for pulleys - the stock water pump pulley is plastic, wich can get brittle with time.. A few specialist online companies have alloy underdrive pulley kits available, that effectively free up a few more horsepower by reducing parasitic drag losses. These will also last forever and a day if you get a proper set.

BMC and K&N also make replacement drop-in air filters for the stock airbox, which will last you forever with regular cleaning, frees up a tiny bit of horsepower, and won't gunk up your MAF provided you're conservative with filter oil application.

Pirate items are a no-no - use original belts, oil and service items as far as possible and stay away from your local spares shop when it comes to your M3... But bear in mind that the aftermarket scene caters for some awesome goodies for the M3's, which would actually make more power / last longer than the equivalent OEM BMW bits.

:thumbs::thumbs:Any recommendations of sites / places where I can buy this pulleys
 

BillyBob

Active member
Aftermarket air filters are a very contentious subject - personally, I've never had a MAF negatively affected by an aftermarket air filter, provided it hasn't been over-oiled.

And also bear in mind that MAFs are generally considered service items... E39 M5 / E46 M3 MAFs tend to start losing the plot between 60-80k km's, while not failing completely, they tend to start skewing airflow readings slightly, hampering performance a bit.

Also advisable on an E36 - check the service history and see what was done and replaced on the car's service record...

For your own peace of mind, do a complete fluid drain on the car - engine oil, coolant, hydraulic brake and clutch fluids, gearbox oil and diff oil, unless you have record of those items having been done at correct intervals. Gearbox and diff oils are notoriously overlooked items outside of motorplan, and can cost you a bundle in mechanical failures that could be prevented by regular fluid changes. Old Hydraulic brake and clutch fluids can cause gunking in the master and slave cylinders, causing premature wear on the pistons and workings, making for expensive replacements / reconditioning repairs.

Also check for O2 sensors, cam position sensors and any evidence of the MAF having been replaced - especially if you find the car running a bit rich / stumbling through the lower rev range / being heavy on fuel.

Lastly, check the front suspension mounts, shock towers, the rear subframe and top shock mounts + surrounding area in the boot.. Unless the car's been owned by a little old lady it's entire life, you stand the chance of some windgat hellcat having been tail happy and over-zealous with donuts and track use, or even just a lot of clutch-sidestepping smoking launches. Ensure the diff carrier / cradle, the surrounding mounting points, and the shock mounts & surrounding body work don't show any signs of cracks or metal fatigue - if they do, get it fixed ASAP, or you'll be in for an expensive repair in future.

Interestingly enough - BMW actually had factory reinforcement kits, containing top mount plates for both the front and rear shock towers, as well as reinforcing plate meant to be welded into the rear towers - though I'm unsure whether they were designed for track use in the Motorsport program, or actually issued as a recall to be fitted to all E36 M3's. Either way though, if you have any evidence of wear and tear in those areas, do as much as you can to cure it and strengthen the area... My old man had a Dakar yellow 4-door a few years ago that'd obviously seen a hard life at the hands of the previous owner, and by the time we caught it, the top shock mounts had practically torn clean out of the body - cost a fortune to fix, and it always made one feel somewhat uncomfortable in really pushing on in the car..
 

Sankekur

///Member
msm said:
BillyBob said:
As much as i agree with the keep it OEM statement, Dependent on what the car gets used for, aftermarket poly-urethane bushes might suit your purposes better if you're a very enthusiastic type of driver who likes getting it sideways often.

Same goes for pulleys - the stock water pump pulley is plastic, wich can get brittle with time.. A few specialist online companies have alloy underdrive pulley kits available, that effectively free up a few more horsepower by reducing parasitic drag losses. These will also last forever and a day if you get a proper set.

BMC and K&N also make replacement drop-in air filters for the stock airbox, which will last you forever with regular cleaning, frees up a tiny bit of horsepower, and won't gunk up your MAF provided you're conservative with filter oil application.

Pirate items are a no-no - use original belts, oil and service items as far as possible and stay away from your local spares shop when it comes to your M3... But bear in mind that the aftermarket scene caters for some awesome goodies for the M3's, which would actually make more power / last longer than the equivalent OEM BMW bits.

+1 on all except for the air filter. I'd keep that OEM and change it at regular intervals.

+1
 

Peejay

Events Organiser
If OEM is good enough for the new M3, good enough for CSL, good enough for BMW Performance air boxes...then their good enough for me.

Also the 3.0 M3 was fitted with a steel water pump plulley not plastic. Its the impeller thats plastic which needs to be converted to steel. BMW sorted this problem with the 3.2 :thumbs:

Also the OEM oil and plugs that BMW supply is TWS and NGK(for 3.2). The oil is R199ea (depending on which BMW) for 1 litre, you need 7 and plugs are approx R 173ea plus on minus. Anyways my point is that my local spare shop supplied me the plugs (Same thing) for R 80ea and Oil for R160. I think that a big saving for the same stuff.
 

BillyBob

Active member
Heven, apologies... US spec S50's have a plastic pulley, but you're right, local S50's got an steel one according to spec.

That being said, I've seen a broken plastic one on an M3, which I could only assume to have originally come from an M50/M52 engine in a budget repair in that case.

Ta for mentioning the plastic water pump impellers on the 3.0 - ticking time bomb if it hasn't been replaced.

Also, check the plastic hose spouts on the radiator - they tend to get brittle and start cracking.

Further items to check would include coils, Vanos seals for leaks, Vanos wiring which gets brittle and breaks, and oil pumps sometimes tend to shear off the main shaft, which will destroy the motor in a heartbeat. I don't know whether they also suffer from the drive nut coming loose, like the M52's - maybe someone else can clarify..

Lastly, ensure that your service history includes regular valve adjustments, and if you have no record of it being done recently, get it done... Solid lifter heads don't auto-adjust valve clearances, and hence they need to be shimmed every so often.. I'm unsure as to the prescribed BMW adjustment / checking intervals, but I'd guess every major service..
 

V'NOLAN

Member
:
heven said:
If OEM is good enough for the new M3, good enough for CSL, good enough for BMW Performance air boxes...then their good enough for me.

Also the 3.0 M3 was fitted with a steel water pump plulley not plastic. Its the impeller thats plastic which needs to be converted to steel. BMW sorted this problem with the 3.2 :thumbs:

Also the OEM oil and plugs that BMW supply is TWS and NGK(for 3.2). The oil is R199ea (depending on which BMW) for 1 litre, you need 7 and plugs are approx R 173ea plus on minus. Anyways my point is that my local spare shop supplied me the plugs (Same thing) for R 80ea and Oil for R160. I think that a big saving for the same stuff.

:ty:Will the 3.2 impeller fit on the 3.0?
 

Peejay

Events Organiser
Yes I think it would. But as Billy says the problem is sorted for SA spec cars.

BillyBob said:
Also, check the plastic hose spouts on the radiator - they tend to get brittle and start cracking.

Further items to check would include coils, Vanos seals for leaks, Vanos wiring which gets brittle and breaks, and oil pumps sometimes tend to shear off the main shaft, which will destroy the motor in a heartbeat. I don't know whether they also suffer from the drive nut coming loose, like the M52's - maybe someone else can clarify..

Lastly, ensure that your service history includes regular valve adjustments, and if you have no record of it being done recently, get it done... Solid lifter heads don't auto-adjust valve clearances, and hence they need to be shimmed every so often.. I'm unsure as to the prescribed BMW adjustment / checking intervals, but I'd guess every major service..

Correct:thumbs: Good to change all fluids as you mentioned earlier. Apparently BMW use a special additive in the coolant to prevent the brittleness but 1 has to chnage every 2 years.

I think theres a mod for the oil nut where you weld it on that fixes this problem.
And yes check the vanos. Mine was leaking when I got it. All the seal where stuffed.
 

BillyBob

Active member
Just replace the entire pump mate... They're not too expensive.

But yes, the metal impeller should fit the 3.0 pump with a bit of machining... Dunno how freely available seal kits are, so hence saying rather replace it.

Also, heven, the factory BMW filters aren't bad, but their costs start adding up, expecially on the M cars... An aftermarket serviceable filter flows better and is reusable many times over... Though, it's a matter of personal preference for most. Interestingly enough, the CSL's air filter is actually a unit designed and manufactured by BMC... :=):

Personally though, I wouldn't hesitate to change the air box on an E36 M3 altogether and fit a CAI kit - they really are restrictive, and severely muffle the intake noise of the engine.

Ta for clarifying on the oil pump... Once again, I'd replace it as well, unless I have evidence of it recently having been replaced - it's not worth risking a R30k engine rebuild for the sake of skimping on an oil pump replacement.. And if they are susceptible to the same nut issue, loc-tite and fixing wire should sort it, or just tack-weld the nut on.
 

Peejay

Events Organiser
Yeah it is personal preference. :thumbs:

Hey different strokes for different folks.:roflol: :thumbs:
 

rick540

///Member
As much as OEM is the way to go, if you keep your eyes open, you can buy "some" OEM parts at 1/4 the cost elsewhere.

Bosch/Hella/Behr/Bilstein/Sachs/Corteco/Kolbenschmidt/3M/BASF/Jurid are just some of the names I can buy in a box without the BMW logo on, they are the exact same parts without the levy applied.

One has to hunt for the stuff but it's out there for sure.
 

BillyBob

Active member
Unfortunately part and parcel of M3 ownership mate.. Unless you know exactly where the car is coming from, or you've got service documentation indicating that these factors have been recently checked / addressed, you'll need to shell out a bit of cash and invest a good few hours in the car to ensure peace of mind motoring.. There are just some replacements and work to be done that one can't afford to compromise with when it come to an //M motor.

But rest assured, when it's done, you'll know it's bulletproof and just enjoy the car so much more for it.. And it'll be a good while before you'd have to shell out for those kind of expenses again.

As Rick's mentioned, certain parts on the M3 do have aftermarket-branded derivatives that are exactly the same part.. Best thing to do would be searching online or asking on the forum when something needs replacing.

 
Top