I'm lost please help

danieljames

Active member
Hi fanatics. So I've run into a problem. my 1995 E36 325i won't unlock. I was driving and when I stopped the central locking wouldn't work. Stupid me decided to switch the car off and arm the alarm. Got a straining sound from the lock motor on the drivers door. And then nothing. Couldn't disarm the alarm and obviously couldn't start the car. It's a factory alarm and the batteries in the key are fine.

Has anyone solved an issue like this?
Or atleast what do I look for?I have no idea where to start. Unfortunately I'm not by the car now so I can't check anything right now.
Where would I find the alarm module?
Or where do I start looking?

Any advice guys?
 

danieljames

Active member
I disconnected the battery when u left where the car is standing. When I return ill connect and check. Thanks for the reply. If it helps my key is the two button type
 

Ratslaaf

///Member
What worries me is that the car won't start with the key either. There's two components to this, the alarm side and the immobiliser side. The alarm works with an RF signal sent by your remote to lock and unlock the car. The immobiliser part works with a transponder in your key and doesn't rely on the battery in your key to start the car. The one isn't reliant on the other, so that if the key battery or alarm fails, you should still be able to start the car - even if the key ended up in water.

What do you get on the dash when manually unlocking the car and trying to start it?
 

hoosain

New member
Ratslaaf@OBDWorx said:
What worries me is that the car won't start with the key either. There's two components to this, the alarm side and the immobiliser side. The alarm works with an RF signal sent by your remote to lock and unlock the car. The immobiliser part works with a transponder in your key and doesn't rely on the battery in your key to start the car. The one isn't reliant on the other, so that if the key battery or alarm fails, you should still be able to start the car - even if the key ended up in water.

What do you get on the dash when manually unlocking the car and trying to start it?

Iirc the two button keys never had a transponder
 

danieljames

Active member
Ratslaaf@OBDWorx said:
What worries me is that the car won't start with the key either. There's two components to this, the alarm side and the immobiliser side. The alarm works with an RF signal sent by your remote to lock and unlock the car. The immobiliser part works with a transponder in your key and doesn't rely on the battery in your key to start the car. The one isn't reliant on the other, so that if the key battery or alarm fails, you should still be able to start the car - even if the key ended up in water.

What do you get on the dash when manually unlocking the car and trying to start it?

Hi Ratslaaf. Well if I manually unlock the car and open the door the alarm starts screaming. If I allow that to stop and try starting the car car then nothing happens. I'll have to confirm what lights I'm getting on the dash when I rotate the key. The car is currently standing at my gf's uncle's place so I have to wait till they wake up.

There's obviously power to the big red cable on the starter. I'm wondering if the ignition is maybe switched out because the immobiliser is not disarmed? Not really sure how the alarm circuit works
 

hoosain

New member
Seems like your alarm and immobiliser are not switching off with the key
The alarm will switch off after a minute or so but the immobiliser circuit is still active so if you try to start it won't start
Could be one of two things the transmitter (your key) or the receiver unit in the car
You can try to do a reset with the keys
Get into the car close door
Turn ignition on but don't start car turn key back and remove key now immediately
Hold down the bottom button and simultaneously press the top button 3 times while still holding down the bottom button
The car hazards should flash and the doors unlock
 

danieljames

Active member
Just an update. Tried again this morning. All the dash light come on when turning the key but still no swing from the starter.
If I try and jump the starter , the alarm sounds immediately.
hoosain said:
Seems like your alarm and immobiliser are not switching off with the key
The alarm will switch off after a minute or so but the immobiliser circuit is still active so if you try to start it won't start
Could be one of two things the transmitter (your key) or the receiver unit in the car
You can try to do a reset with the keys
Get into the car close door
Turn ignition on but don't start car turn key back and remove key now immediately
Hold down the bottom button and simultaneously press the top button 3 times while still holding down the bottom button
The car hazards should flash and the doors unlock
I'm going to tow the car home now. I'll be trying to figure this thing out.
I'll most definitely try this^^
Thanks hoosain
 

danieljames

Active member
Ok so I unplugged this box which resides behind the glovebox. I'm now able to start the car but central locking/power windows don't work. I can see there was a sticker on the casing but someone tore it off. Can anyone identify it for ne please?
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Front view
035acf6fa7dc332074f25667a688e898.jpg
 

Nikhil

Honorary ///Member
I think thats referred to as the "comfort" module. Another thing you can try is removing the door pad on the drivers side, disconnecting the door lock actuator and reconnect that module.if it works like "normal" again then the actuator is acting up.
 

Ralf*

///Member
I have a thought

on my E36, many years ago now, the door lock microswitches became worn out, and this caused untold issues, in some cases not dissimilar to what you are experiencing.

if the microswitch has jammed/failed in the door closed position, and you have armed the alarm, then even though the door is open, it might still be "sensing" doors closed, and thus won't disarm

just a thought
 

danieljames

Active member
Ralf* said:
I have a thought

on my E36, many years ago now, the door lock microswitches became worn out, and this caused untold issues, in some cases not dissimilar to what you are experiencing.

if the microswitch has jammed/failed in the door closed position, and you have armed the alarm, then even though the door is open, it might still be "sensing" doors closed, and thus won't disarm

just a thought
Interesting thought.....although....when I connect t the battery with all the doors closed and then open the drivers door...The alarm sounds again.

But worth a check non tje less
 

danieljames

Active member
Hi boet. Just took a break to have supper. Going to remove the door lock actuator now after consulting the bentleys manual. Then see if I can figure out those microswitch thingys. Then have a look at the trunk wiring harness......and if all that fails.....I'll be lost again lol
 

Ralf*

///Member
danieljames said:
Hi boet. Just took a break to have supper. Going to remove the door lock actuator now after consulting the bentleys manual. Then see if I can figure out those microswitch thingys. Then have a look at the trunk wiring harness......and if all that fails.....I'll be lost again lol

the door microswitches are within the door lock striker, not the main mechanism located enclosed within the door

51218105511.jpg


that is where a lot of my problems were
 

danieljames

Active member
Hmmmm.......so I should kick myself.......turns out #7 fuse popped..... I'll admit I didn't check that and ran straight for the worst case scenario....really noob move 8 know....


So I was able to disarm the immobiliser...YAAAAAAY!!!!!!!


New problem though....#7 fuse(central locking) keeps popping when I try to unlock the car.....whether I use the remote or by turning the key in the door lock itself.........I'm assuming this would be caused by the door actuator shorting out somehow?

Damn....and I just put the damn door panel back on!!!!


I would say it's shorting out somewhere because the original fuse is 7.5 A.....and it popped two of my 10 A fuses
 

danieljames

Active member
988593fc6d3d5f2e9f3588d68cc8a694.jpg


Turned out to be two broken wires in the boot harness.....All sorted now.

Thanks again for all the replies.
BEEEG UPS to all of you
 

Ralf*

///Member
well done, and so you, and we, all learn from the troubles and issues others have had

:clapper:
 

danieljames

Active member
F************************K!!!!!!!!!!!!



Everything back together and now there's no spark???????????????

Crankshaft sensor checks out at 520 ohm. Research time again
 
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