Havoc said:
Sorry Gents. I tried to upload the photo's but still with no Luck. Will keep on trying
Nastaliq
"The SA would have told you about running the engine in since its new, and bedding (wearing) the brakes in....so just follow the advice".
I am not sure if i understand you right but no one , not even the dealer said something about bedding in the brakes or running in the engine. That is why i need the right advice from the gents on the forum.
They also said that no heat up or cooling down is not really needed but i want to look after my baby the best way possible. This is the main reason i am asking about the temp gauge, short trip cool down and long trip cool down. I dont want to hurt a brand new turbo.
Thanks to all the members for a warm welcome. Much appreciated.
I am not surprised. In the US, they get a salesperson/ SA to orient you with the car for about 2 hours. They teach you how the controls work, help you customise settings like auto lock and DRL and so on, they pair your phone with BT, they show you how everythignworks and how to care and maintain the car.
I have noticed here in SA though, they say, heres your keys, if you have a problem call me anytime...lekker.....meet up.
You didnt get the car for free, and the salesman made some comms off of you, so the least he can do, is tell you how everything works. we have sales guys on ehre, that would chime in like minimike and the likes.
They can actually say if the salesman is supposed to show you how everything works or not.
Nonetheless,the information they do not provide, is why we exist as a community.
so,
Bedding allows your brakes to reach their full potential. Until they are bedded, your brakes simply do not work as well as they can.You should set aside time to bed the brakes according to the instructions below.
Proper bedding improves pedal feel, reduces or eliminates brake squeal, prevents (and often cures) brake judder, reduces brake dust, and extends the life of your pads and rotors.
From about 100km/h, gently apply the brakes a couple of times to bring them up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.
Make eight to ten near-stops from 100km/h to about 20-15 km/h. Do it HARD by pressing the brakes firmly, but do not lock the wheels or engage ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 100km/h and then apply the brakes again.
DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP!
If you stop completely and sit with your foot on the brake pedal, you will imprint pad material onto the hot rotors, which could lead to vibration and uneven braking.
The brakes may begin to fade after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A strong smell from the brakes, and even some smoke, is normal.
After the last near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and cruise for a while, using the brakes as little as possible.
The brakes need only a few minutes to cool down.
After the break-in cycle, there should be a slight blue tint and a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is what you are looking for.
The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across the rotors. This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life.
After the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes may still not be fully broken in. A second bed-in cycle, AFTER the brakes have cooled down fully from the first cycle, may be necessary before the brakes really start to perform well. After the second cycle, the pedal will become noticeably firmer.
Although, you would have already driven the car for a while now, so perhaps proper brake bedding in is moot at this point :dunno:
Now on the matter of running in the engine. here there are various opinions, but basically drive it "easy" for the first few hundred kms.
Essentially, you dont want to pull it out of your garage and drive to the shops 2 kms down the roads, without letting it idle and driving it, like you just stole it.
From what i understand about motors (which is very limited mind you) is that gradually increasing the operating temperatures helps all the seals and rings actually seal properly. it allows the engine to "break in" and "wear in" with grooves and bores and that mechanical stuff.
So in a nutshell, maybe for the 1st 200/ 300 kms, dont drop it like its HOT, although with any new car, thats hard to do :clap:
Although they may have told you heating up and colling the turbo afterward is not required, I am sure the other guys will agree with me when I say, its better to do it, and the benefit long term, outweigh the short term benefit of driving from cold-start-up.
As far as the oil temp is concerned, you can access the hidden menu through code 07.00 (engine coolant) on the OBC. I have tried doing it otherwise on my pre LCI and now on the LCI, and unless I am missing something, it cant be done. The workaround though is to access it through the hidden menu, which CANT be done on-the-fly unfortunately.
Try
http://e90.wetpaint.com/page/BC+hidden+menus?t=anon to see how this is accessed.
I am sure the other more experienced older guys on here can add much much more, so I am certain the replies will come rolling in.
Havoc said:
Sorry Gents. I tried to upload the photo's but still with no Luck. Will keep on trying
Nastaliq
"The SA would have told you about running the engine in since its new, and bedding (wearing) the brakes in....so just follow the advice".
I am not sure if i understand you right but no one , not even the dealer said something about bedding in the brakes or running in the engine. That is why i need the right advice from the gents on the forum.
They also said that no heat up or cooling down is not really needed but i want to look after my baby the best way possible. This is the main reason i am asking about the temp gauge, short trip cool down and long trip cool down. I dont want to hurt a brand new turbo.
Thanks to all the members for a warm welcome. Much appreciated.
Coming back to the photo part of things, I created a photbucket account and now i am lost. How to go from here.
There is another couple of things i wanne know but will ask one question at a time.
Is is advisable to use a mequires wax on the car after the first wash to try my best to protect the paint? I have the "cleaner wax liquid" and the normal rubbing on one in a tin. Which one do I use?
Also Sonex rim cleaner with a layer of smartwax rim wax i hear is the way to go on the rims. Where can i find this stuff in JHB? This morning she has 300Km on and i wanne treat her right from the start.
Thanks for the help
SONAX....SONAX....SONAX... I would sell this stuff for them on weekends if they paid me.
I bought SONAX extreme rim cleaner from builders warehouse. I can tell you that it works like magic. It cleans RIMS like I have never seen anything clean rims before. To see how well it works, see:
http://www.bmwfanatics.co.za/showthread.php?tid=17002
Anyway, the Sonax - BW for abour R50/60 a bottle, as far as smartwax is concerned, try crazydetailer, they have awesome service and are top guys to deal with.
