First Dyno for my M3

[thireshan]

Hi

So got the M on the Dyno at Dynotech this weekend for the first time,couldnt understand y they stopped the car at 7500rpm when the e46 M3 revs to 8000rpm :thinker:,maybe sumone with more dyno knowledge can enlighten me.

Im at the coast so can you guys give figures of de-catt or stock M's outputs on the dyno's at the coast.

My M is de-catted

 

[Sherwin@xcede]

Hey bud, that's good power there. I think that's probably stronger than the average ///M. I rate you need software now

 

[thireshan]

Hey bud, that's good power there. I think that's probably stronger than the average ///M. I rate you need software now

Howzit.thanks,from judging the graph do u think the car would have made more power if revved to 8000rpm?

 

[zabbo]

When I had my ///M it was 100% stock and made the following at Zeemax:
224.5kW@7153 and 342Nm@5156

So your gains with the decat seem decent.

 

[Matt Q]

Hey There

I'm guessing that was power at the crank and not RW-KW??

If so.. that's a fairly nice power curve although your torque is dropping off pretty early... I recon judging by that graph you are starting to run rich up top... meaning your engine is sucking and the air she aint coming.. you need an upgrade to your intake dude...

Stock power is rated as 256 Kw and 365 NM or Torque, however that is benchmark at crank using Euro 98 fuel...

If you are getting 228 then that's pretty good by SA standards.. my best dyno when Jezzy was stock was 232Kw, can't remember the NM though..

I recon a basic octane booster and a better intake will see a nice gain in the mid to high levels... and some power pulleys should fatten your curve down below.

Xcede guys... do you tune the stock DME or are you using piggyback?

 

[Sherwin@xcede]

Howzit.thanks,from judging the graph do u think the car would have made more power if revved to 8000rpm?

I actually think the car was revved to 8000rpm. The rpm on the hyperpower never aligns properly with the cars.

Glad you got the car sorted & its operating.

Matt, we map via the OBD port.

 

[thireshan]

Hey There

I'm guessing that was power at the crank and not RW-KW??

If so.. that's a fairly nice power curve although your torque is dropping off pretty early... I recon judging by that graph you are starting to run rich up top... meaning your engine is sucking and the air she aint coming.. you need an upgrade to your intake dude...

Stock power is rated as 256 Kw and 365 NM or Torque, however that is benchmark at crank using Euro 98 fuel...

If you are getting 228 then that's pretty good by SA standards.. my best dyno when Jezzy was stock was 232Kw, can't remember the NM though..

I recon a basic octane booster and a better intake will see a nice gain in the mid to high levels... and some power pulleys should fatten your curve down below.

Xcede guys... do you tune the stock DME or are you using piggyback?

Hi matt

Dynotech gives flywheel figures.

with regards to the airflow up top,car is standing on a dyno so wouldn't
that be the reason for the engine not sucking enough air compared to driving on the road?,if not,would a drop in filter(K&N or BMC) be a good place to start with intake upgrade or will software be the answer?

 

[Matt Q]

with regards to the airflow up top,car is standing on a dyno so wouldn't
that be the reason for the engine not sucking enough air compared to driving on the road?,if not,would a drop in filter(K&N or BMC) be a good place to start with intake upgrade or will software be the answer?

Quick tuning lesson

An engine is really super simple when you break it down.

1. Open can
2. add air and fuel
3. close can
4. spark
5. BOOM
6. Open Can
7. Remove exhaust fumes
8. Close Can
Rinse and Repeat

In its simplest form, "tuning" an engine simply does 2 things

1. optimizes the AFR (Air Fuel Ration) and,
2. allows more air and fuel into the "can"

- More Air and Fuel = More power
- AFR ranges from rich to lean where rich is safer and less economical and lean is hotter and more powerful (and dangerous)

Now that you know the basics, what does this mean for tuning the M3?

Well.. for starters the stock fuel pump is good for delivering fuel at up to 600RWHP (with race gas) which is WAY more than most will ever need. Over 400RWHP you will need to upgrade your injectors to deliver more fuel to the cylinders... so fuel delivery is not your issue

That leaves Air. Now de-catting helps SLIIIGGGHTLY as it helps the removal of exhaust gasses and cooling, but without flowing MORE AIR into the cylinders, you can tune till the cows come home and you wont get much more power.

That leaves induction and there are 2 ways of improving it

1. Timing
2. Increased Airflow

1. Timing... it sounds like wizardry but all it means is the intake valves are open for longer to allow more time for air and fuel to enter the cylinder = more air/fuel = more power... simple

2. Increased airlow. This is where you need to choose NA or FI (and btw NOS is FI as it simply adds more oxygen in the form of NO2 which allows more fuel to be added)

SO.... in summary, until you optimise airflow, you can remap but it will be a bit of a waste of money and effort as you are still dealing with the stock airbox and setup which is fairly well optimized already

Add a performance filter and the DME will notice the higher airflow and add more fuel = more power

If you tune on top of a new filter your will notice really nice gains... of course adding compressed air (Supercharger/Turbo) is the best, but that starts to get very expensive

Does this help??

 

[thireshan]

with regards to the airflow up top,car is standing on a dyno so wouldn't
that be the reason for the engine not sucking enough air compared to driving on the road?,if not,would a drop in filter(K&N or BMC) be a good place to start with intake upgrade or will software be the answer?

Quick tuning lesson

An engine is really super simple when you break it down.

1. Open can
2. add air and fuel
3. close can
4. spark
5. BOOM
6. Open Can
7. Remove exhaust fumes
8. Close Can
Rinse and Repeat

In its simplest form, "tuning" an engine simply does 2 things

1. optimizes the AFR (Air Fuel Ration) and,
2. allows more air and fuel into the "can"

- More Air and Fuel = More power
- AFR ranges from rich to lean where rich is safer and less economical and lean is hotter and more powerful (and dangerous)

Now that you know the basics, what does this mean for tuning the M3?

Well.. for starters the stock fuel pump is good for delivering fuel at up to 600RWHP (with race gas) which is WAY more than most will ever need. Over 400RWHP you will need to upgrade your injectors to deliver more fuel to the cylinders... so fuel delivery is not your issue

That leaves Air. Now de-catting helps SLIIIGGGHTLY as it helps the removal of exhaust gasses and cooling, but without flowing MORE AIR into the cylinders, you can tune till the cows come home and you wont get much more power.

That leaves induction and there are 2 ways of improving it

1. Timing
2. Increased Airflow

1. Timing... it sounds like wizardry but all it means is the intake valves are open for longer to allow more time for air and fuel to enter the cylinder = more air/fuel = more power... simple

2. Increased airlow. This is where you need to choose NA or FI (and btw NOS is FI as it simply adds more oxygen in the form of NO2 which allows more fuel to be added)

SO.... in summary, until you optimise airflow, you can remap but it will be a bit of a waste of money and effort as you are still dealing with the stock airbox and setup which is fairly well optimized already

Add a performance filter and the DME will notice the higher airflow and add more fuel = more power

If you tune on top of a new filter your will notice really nice gains... of course adding compressed air (Supercharger/Turbo) is the best, but that starts to get very expensive

Does this help??

thanks for the info :wave:
supercharger or turbo is great but i like a na car so i think software & drop in filter will do for me....

 

[Matt Q]

If you prefer NA power.. you MUST look at a good set of power pulleys (try turner motorsport), a carbon fiber airbox and a light flywheel do this all BEFORE retuning