discussion E92 M3

KPM3_30

Moderator
Staff member
Lots of info available on the forum, just use the search function.

 

Nukleuz

Well-known member
The main things i would recommend you look out for is:

- head Light fluid Bottle cracks ( these cars are notorious for cracking, and the cars are getting on with age, so most of them have leaks )
- O-pipe is not pinches causing restrictions
- Flux Capacitor is not giving any errors as they are expensive to replace.
 

///Avi

///Member
When checking the car look for any erratic idle or hesitation through the revs. This may be a sign the throttle actuators are on the way out. Scan the car for any codes as well.

Hopefully rod bearings and throttle actuators are done on the car. That’s a huge plus. Bearings should be done at around 80k km of mileage at the latest.

Inspect the suspension, if the car has edc they are fairly expensive to replace those dampers if you plan to stick with OEM.

The valve cover gaskets leak from time to time, the idler pulley squeaks. These are not particularly large issues but it could help you get the price down to sort that out.

If it’s dct make sure the shifts feel crisp and healthy.

Good luck with the purchase, truly brilliant cars.
 

Rods1318

New member
When checking the car look for any erratic idle or hesitation through the revs. This may be a sign the throttle actuators are on the way out. Scan the car for any codes as well.

Hopefully rod bearings and throttle actuators are done on the car. That’s a huge plus. Bearings should be done at around 80k km of mileage at the latest.

Inspect the suspension, if the car has edc they are fairly expensive to replace those dampers if you plan to stick with OEM.

The valve cover gaskets leak from time to time, the idler pulley squeaks. These are not particularly large issues but it could help you get the price down to sort that out.

If it’s dct make sure the shifts feel crisp and healthy.

Good luck with the purchase, truly brilliant cars.
Thanks will keep in mind
 

Scott021

New member
When checking the car look for any erratic idle or hesitation through the revs. This may be a sign the throttle actuators are on the way out. Scan the car for any codes as well.

Hopefully rod bearings and throttle actuators are done on the car. That’s a huge plus. Bearings should be done at around 80k km of mileage at the latest.

Inspect the suspension, if the car has edc they are fairly expensive to replace those dampers if you plan to stick with OEM.

The valve cover gaskets leak from time to time, the idler pulley squeaks. These are not particularly large issues but it could help you get the price down to sort that out.

If it’s dct make sure the shifts feel crisp and healthy.

Good luck with the purchase, truly brilliant cars.
What @///Avi said. Also run your hand over the diff to check for slight leak/weeping - it would likely just need new seals.

Either budget for the engine bearings to be changed or verify the invoice with the workshop that did the change.

Check the engine oil level and if no reading, then it possibly needs a new oil level sensor - not uncommon but pricey for the part and labour to replace.

Actuators can fail any time and won't damage the engine so not a critical preventative maintenance item, but can be a PITA to get home in limp mode of/when one or both fail. When 1 goes just replace them both with units from Rebuild.org - they have a lifetime warranty and are 1/4 the price from BMW. Fit them yourself - I'm a novice and I could do it.

Check the life left in the brake discs. Mine needs discs, pads, sensors, fluid - not a cheap day out.

Otherwise normal used car buying advice applies, check service history, signs of changes to the bodywork. Make sure the front wheel arch liners are all in place and intact. The DCT oil cooler sits at the front right and would be exposed to stones/damage if not protected. Also check the condition of the undertray (which is rubbish and will likely need replacing).

None of the above, apart from questionable service history and questionable bodywork, should make you run away from a car, but rather just to be aware of things that could and/or should be on your radar to budget for.

Sent from my SM-N770F using Tapatalk
 

Rods1318

New member
What @///Avi said. Also run your hand over the diff to check for slight leak/weeping - it would likely just need new seals.

Either budget for the engine bearings to be changed or verify the invoice with the workshop that did the change.

Check the engine oil level and if no reading, then it possibly needs a new oil level sensor - not uncommon but pricey for the part and labour to replace.

Actuators can fail any time and won't damage the engine so not a critical preventative maintenance item, but can be a PITA to get home in limp mode of/when one or both fail. When 1 goes just replace them both with units from Rebuild.org - they have a lifetime warranty and are 1/4 the price from BMW. Fit them yourself - I'm a novice and I could do it.

Check the life left in the brake discs. Mine needs discs, pads, sensors, fluid - not a cheap day out.

Otherwise normal used car buying advice applies, check service history, signs of changes to the bodywork. Make sure the front wheel arch liners are all in place and intact. The DCT oil cooler sits at the front right and would be exposed to stones/damage if not protected. Also check the condition of the undertray (which is rubbish and will likely need replacing).

None of the above, apart from questionable service history and questionable bodywork, should make you run away from a car, but rather just to be aware of things that could and/or should be on your radar to budget for.

Sent from my SM-N770F using Tapatalk
Hi

Thank you

i will check all as explained i am seeing the car today in PMB
 
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