E90 320D Turbo Needed

garywinter

New member
Hi All,

2005 E90 320D M47 Engine

I haven't posted on thid forum for a long time as my E90 has been trouble free. Until now.:thumbdo:
I had a diagnostic done and the actuator on the turbo has failed.

Does anybody know where I can have the turbo fixed, exchanged or buy a new one.

I have contacted a place and they say they have a unit in stock. Is it worth buying this turbo or am I just going to waist my money. Price given on service exchange is R7200.

Has anybody had dealings with Turbofix in Nigel?

I will appreciate any advise.
Thanks
 

DieselFan

Honorary ///Member
What turbo is it a mitsubishi or garret?

And have you had it diagnosed is it not just the electronic actuator?
 

garywinter

New member
DieselFan said:
What turbo is it a mitsubishi or garret?

And have you had it diagnosed is it not just the electronic actuator?

I have the M47 engine and a search on the web reveals that it is Garret.
I have had a diagnostic done and it is just the actuator that has gone.
It has the electronic actuator.
 

stiaan

Member
Strange TurboDirect can't help, 4 months back when I was looking for a turbo for my N47 320d, everybody had the Garret in stock for the M47, but no Mitsubishi turbo for my N47. Had to go to stealers and pay R20 000 :(

Sent from my BlackBerry 9360 using Tapatalk
 

Andy1GP

///Member
AFAIK the pre lci E90 320d's have the mitsubishi turbo's.

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=VC32&mospid=48480&btnr=11_3667&hg=11&fg=50

Mine is an 07 pre lci and it also has the Mitsubishi.

Also from what little I know of these turbos the actuator is part of the turbine housing and can only be replaced. Unless one attempts a repair but you'll have to get another turbo for that anyways.

Sucks really, since with the Garret's you can order a service kit and rebuild the internals and keep the shaft and housing for another 200k+ kms.
 

garywinter

New member
I got an exchange unit from Turboworks in Centurion.
Very freindly and they seem to know what they are doing.

I still need to fit the turbo. I'm going to start tonight.

The old turbo does not look to bad but there is play on the shaft and the vanes are almost touching the housing wall so I can imagine that I was probably very near having the turbo fail.
 

Andy1GP

///Member
garywinter said:
I got an exchange unit from Turboworks in Centurion.
Very freindly and they seem to know what they are doing.

I still need to fit the turbo. I'm going to start tonight.

The old turbo does not look to bad but there is play on the shaft and the vanes are almost touching the housing wall so I can imagine that I was probably very near having the turbo fail.

Please take pics and post up when you have time. It will mean a lot to the community.

Good luck with the huge endeavor :thumbs:
 

DieselFan

Honorary ///Member
Cant you swap the mitsubishi kak for a garret? Or do you think it would have to be retuned? Rolf from promotec said the hybrid turbo available for my car would be a garret so I don't see why one can't fit a stock one?
 

garywinter

New member
Unfortunately I did not take any photos, I should have.

These are just a few tips, it is not a complete write up, I found some write ups by using Google.

Tips for removing turbo.
Remove the electronic actuator from the turbo before you undo the turbo from the exhaust manifold.

There is a bolt under the turbo that needs to be removed, 13mm hex. I used a small 1/4 inch ratchet and socket for this.

Remove Exhaust Clamp between turbo and exhaust.

Remove 3 bolts that fasten turbo to exhaust manifold. This is a dual hex bolt 12mm.

Undo the water pipe from the thermostat housing and the EGR cooler.

You should now be able to get the turbo out.

Install:
Remove power steering pump.

Place turbo in.

Connect Bottom oil drain tube.

Put 2 bolts in that hold the turbo to the exhaust manifold but do not fasten.

Connect turbo to exhaust, this took me some time.

Remove the 2 bolts that connect turbo to the manifold, slide new gasket in and fasten all 3 bolts.

Fasten clamp for oil drain tube

Prime the turbo with fresh oil.

Connect oil feed tube to block.

Install bolt at bottom of turbo (13mm).

Replace power steering pump, the bolt at the back is difficult to get to.

The turbo is now in.

I just need to put back all the plastic bits.
 

garywinter

New member
I have eventually started the motor and went for a test drive, the engine revs up very slowly to 3000 and then I can feel the boost coming in.
I don't know what to do anymore.
Is the car in limp mode?
Do I need to have the faults cleared?
Please help, at this point any advise will help.
 

Spannie

New member
Hi guys, sorry for deviating off topic, but how reliable are the pre LCI E90 320d's in terms of turbo life. Are the Mitsubishi turbo's really crappy?
 

DieselFan

Honorary ///Member
There is a thread on diesel reliability in the diesel section. I suggest you check that out. All depends on how you care for the turbo.
 

netercol

New member
Spannie said:
Hi guys, sorry for deviating off topic, but how reliable are the pre LCI E90 320d's in terms of turbo life. Are the Mitsubishi turbo's really crappy?

no.. mitsubishi turbo's are not bad turbo's.. on par with garrett i would say.

the problem imho lies more with small turbo's on diesel engines in general..turbo diesels generally run much higher pressure ratios than their petrol brothers.. so all smaller engined diesels, from vw to mercs, bmw's give more trouble in general because of the fact that a small turbo reaches much higher rotational speeds than say the bigger turbo's on 330d's..
 

garywinter

New member
Good Morning All :blueCry:

I have changed the MAP sensor last night and no luck, still battles to rev up to 30000 and then the power increases but the pullaway is really k@k.

I even took off the inlet manifold to check that the swirl flaps are not closed, no problems found there and no improvement in power.

I am going to fit a new MAF today and I really hope and pray thit this is the problem.
 

ChefDJ

///Member
garywinter said:
Good Morning All :blueCry:

I have changed the MAP sensor last night and no luck, still battles to rev up to 30000 and then the power increases but the pullaway is really k@k.

I even took off the inlet manifold to check that the swirl flaps are not closed, no problems found there and no improvement in power.

I am going to fit a new MAF today and I really hope and pray thit this is the problem.

Have you noticed an increase in black smoke?

I'm thinking there's a vacuum leak somewhere that you've missed.
 

Spannie

New member
Is there a diagnostics tool that the BMW guys use to run logs and scan for errors? Similar to VAG-COM?
 
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