E90 320d maintenance

tman

Well-known member
Following my last post I completed powersteering fluid flush.

Its quite a simple DIY, I followed this YouTube tutorial: LINK

I dont have a pump, so I used a air mattress pump, Oros bottle and 10mm pipe to make my own.

The old fluid was NASTY so say the least. Building the home made pump took about 5min, and the entire DIY another 10min.

Pump
timg_20170422_101424_8480310877.jpg

Getting in there nice and deep like...
timg_20170423_093851_8929844517.jpg

timg_20170423_093852_5611548786.jpg

Old Fluid:
timg_20170423_095014_1158086047.jpg


Highly recommend DIY for the post MP guys. Just make sure you use the right fluid (the cap will say either CHF11s or ATF). I bought synthetic CHF11s fluid from Goldwagen @ R185 for a liter.

Stay tuned for the next DIY...
 

matthewproctor

New member
Thanks for this thread guys! I picked up a mint 2011 E90 LCI 320dAuto MSport with 62000km on the clock. Says 8000km before a service is due. What do I need to do?

Appreciate the help!
 

tman

Well-known member
matthewproctor said:
Thanks for this thread guys! I picked up a mint 2011 E90 LCI 320dAuto MSport with 62000km on the clock. Says 8000km before a service is due. What do I need to do?

Appreciate the help!
62000km is really low. When can we see pics of this beauty?

I presume you are out of motorplan? I would start by getting the motorplan printout to see what was done under plan, and take it from there.

Oil, oil filter, and maybe some additional filters like diesel filter, air filter and cabin filter. We all know how BMW just loves to "forget" about those.

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tman

Well-known member
Recently replaced my back disks and pads, here is a short write up.

I would encourage all to review the following video. I did a lot of research and it was by far the most comprehensive. It should be applicable for all E90’s. LINK

This is not a hard DIY, and can be completed with simple tools. With that said if you want to attempt this DIY, or any DIY involving a critical part (such as your brakes), do proper research and planning, make sure you have enough time, and triple check all screws and nuts before testing the result. Your steps might differ slightly if you are using a trolley jack. I only have a normal jack, so it took a bit longer.

1. Make sure the handbrake is engaged, and loosen the wheel nuts of your wheel.

2. Jack up car, place jack stands under car, and remove remainder of wheel nuts and remove wheel. Release hand brake.
WARNING: do not, under any circumstance attempt this without supporting the car just with the jack. Using jack stands is essential, and could save your life.

3. Remove anti vibration clip.

4. Remove rubber caliper guide pin covers, and using an Allan bit remove the 2 caliper guide pins.

5. Remove the caliper, and unclip the remaining pad. Compress the piston using a C-clamp. Rest the caliper on the trailing arm, do not let it hang by the brake line, as you don’t want to stretch the lines. At this point it’s also important to note that you might want to remove the brake pad sensor (depending on what wheel you are working on). If you want to re-use the old sensor, be careful not to break the sensor on this step.

6. Remove the 2x16mm caliper carrier screws at the back.

7. Using a 6mm allan bit, remove the centre screw, holding the disk on the hub

8. Take a hammer to loosen the disk from the hub. I opted to use the C-clamp and kind of hook the back of the disk, and using a jank-pulling motion, to hammer it from the back. After more than a 100 000km my disks where on there pretty good and I had to repeat this process sever times, turning the disk a quarter of a rotation between hammering to get it loose.

9. Now that the disk has been removed, inspect your hand brake shoes for wear.

10. Before placing the new disk on to the hub, you might want to remove corrosion/rust and apply an anti-corrosion lubricant to the hub.

11. Secure the new disk on the hub and tighten the 6mm centre screw.

12. As per the video, its probably a good idea to clean the caliper carrier of
brake dust and corrosion/rust before installing the 2x16mm screws again (see step 6).

13. Before installing the new pads, you might want to add some lubricant to the ears of the pads. From the research, I have conducted, there are several products that will do the trick. Just be sure whatever you are using is resistant to very high temps as the brake can get very hot (don’t just use normal grease for example). Remember to also install your brake bad wear sensor at this step.

14. Install the new pads and place the caliper to rest on the caliper carrier.

15. Tighten the 2 caliper carrier guide pins, and install the rubber plugs. Don’t forget to also secure your anti vibration clip.

16. Put the wheel back on, and torque the wheel nuts once the car is jacked down.

17. Repeat steps 1 – 16 for the other wheel!

18. Before “living your life a quarter mile at a time”, remember to pump the brakes a few times. At this point you may also want to reset your brake service light.
 

tman

Well-known member
Lekker Boys!

Another small update for the 320d owners.

The Mass Air Flow sensor needs to be cleaned at least with every air filter change. Quite a few issues can arise from a dirty MAF, have a look at some common issues here: http://www.carsdirect.com/car-repair/how-to-tell-if-you-have-a-faulty-mass-airflow-sensor

Cleaning the MAF:

Before staring, invest in a good quality MAF cleaner, I opted for Liqui Moly.

whatsapp image 2017-05-10 at 16.21.19_1073868772.jpeg


Loosen the following screws:

whatsapp image 2017-05-10 at 15.12.43_2507755779.jpeg


and this, (there is another screw on the other size, not pictured here)

whatsapp image 2017-05-10 at 15.12.51_6390991704.jpeg


When taking everything apart, be careful not to damage the MAF sensor wire. At this point you can attempt to remove the sensor from the tube, I opted not too. Using your MAF cleaner, spray that thin wire you see in the pic below a few times from each direction until clean. Wait until everything dries, and re-assemble!

Total time 60min, inducing the 30min waiting for everything to dry.
difficulty: 1/10

whatsapp image 2017-05-10 at 16.14.22_9790530866.jpeg
 

tman

Well-known member
Small Update

I've been delaying the replacement of my vibration damper pulley (Im almost on 150 000km), but since it sounds like there is a damn budgie in my bonnet, I pulled the trigger and took my car to Ross Duncan this morning.

Turns out my Power-steering pulley and belt will also need replacing, total bill with OEM parts and labour came to R8350.
 

momo1

Well-known member
tman said:
Small Update

I've been delaying the replacement of my vibration damper pulley (Im almost on 150 000km), but since it sounds like there is a damn budgie in my bonnet, I pulled the trigger and took my car to Ross Duncan this morning.

Turns out my Power-steering pulley and belt will also need replacing, total bill with OEM parts and labour came to R8350.

Did you contact John from leo haese, he quoted R6800 excl belt including Vat.
 

tman

Well-known member
momo1 said:
tman said:
Small Update

I've been delaying the replacement of my vibration damper pulley (Im almost on 150 000km), but since it sounds like there is a damn budgie in my bonnet, I pulled the trigger and took my car to Ross Duncan this morning.

Turns out my Power-steering pulley and belt will also need replacing, total bill with OEM parts and labour came to R8350.

Did you contact John from leo haese, he quoted R6800 excl belt including Vat.

Nah, its already a mission for me to drive to Midrand from JHB, so PTA will be too much of a stretch, unfortunately. Furthermore, Ross is even cheaper still.
R6500 for vibration damper pulley
R1850 for Powersteering pulley and belt
 

momo1

Well-known member
tman said:
momo1 said:
tman said:
Small Update

I've been delaying the replacement of my vibration damper pulley (Im almost on 150 000km), but since it sounds like there is a damn budgie in my bonnet, I pulled the trigger and took my car to Ross Duncan this morning.

Turns out my Power-steering pulley and belt will also need replacing, total bill with OEM parts and labour came to R8350.

Did you contact John from leo haese, he quoted R6800 excl belt including Vat.

Nah, its already a mission for me to drive to Midrand from JHB, so PTA will be too much of a stretch, unfortunately. Furthermore, Ross is even cheaper still.
R6500 for vibration damper pulley
R1850 for Powersteering pulley and belt

and the convenience I suppose , I have heard good things about Ross as well.
 

RAArmstrong

///Member
momo1 said:
tman said:
momo1 said:
tman said:
Small Update

I've been delaying the replacement of my vibration damper pulley (Im almost on 150 000km), but since it sounds like there is a damn budgie in my bonnet, I pulled the trigger and took my car to Ross Duncan this morning.

Turns out my Power-steering pulley and belt will also need replacing, total bill with OEM parts and labour came to R8350.

Did you contact John from leo haese, he quoted R6800 excl belt including Vat.

Nah, its already a mission for me to drive to Midrand from JHB, so PTA will be too much of a stretch, unfortunately. Furthermore, Ross is even cheaper still.
R6500 for vibration damper pulley
R1850 for Powersteering pulley and belt

and the convenience I suppose , I have heard good things about Ross as well.

I dunno about Ross, I wanted him to quote me on replacing boost pipe seals. He told me its not possible and I must replace the whole boost pipe. So my car wont see the inside of his workshop
 

Bushnut#1

Member
Iv had my e90 320d for just over 5years and had zero concerns at all, Serviced on time at BMW every 7500km or annually. Only real costy replacements iv had was Run Flat due to back wheels that were buckled had them repaired last year and since then no concerns at all.
 
Same here bushnut , had mine for 3yrs . Serviced on time at BMW and problem free driving excluding replacement of battery , only real cost ....

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Bushnut#1

Member
Deon Rupnarain said:
Same here bushnut , had mine for 3yrs . Serviced on time at BMW and problem free driving excluding replacement of battery , only real cost ....

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Realy is a great car, also had battery replaced under motorplan due to Tracking device draining battery as car wasn't used daily at that time , was a bit of a fight as motorplan initially didnt want to replace it.
 
My warranty officially expired yesterday 29 and I never ever claimed ...now i don't have a warranty....so I am kinda worried .....#Not

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