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Read the WELCOME ALL BMWFANATICS post.
E81 Car Computer (56k Warning)
- Thread starter brukutu
- Start date
DonovanPorter
///Member
looking good man :thumbsup:
brukutu
///Member
Depending of what install you planning to do,Guetzer said:
Thnx man! keep it up!
I also have a 8'' 4:3 LCD...new...well I bought it at first and dicided not to use it....has no housing, straight LCD with a touchscreen....Paid R1600, willing to give it away for R600....
Only been used on my desk testing....
Post #1 Updated.
applehero
///Member
Man that sucks... Just like Murphy messing you around - Build and test everything, and when it comes to install it doesn't work.
I'm not very knowledgeable on electronics, but...
Perhaps with the extra amps the battery needs to output, makes the ecu freak out (I assume it did this while the car was on). So would try supply the necessary current, overshoot that, then under compensate it.
Also, from what I've seen from the OBC hidden menu, is that the voltage while the engine is running is around 14 Volts. Don't know if this will affect things...
A further thing to check is that no wires on your made up board are loose. Perhaps that is the intermittent current issue... :dunno:
I'm not very knowledgeable on electronics, but...
Perhaps with the extra amps the battery needs to output, makes the ecu freak out (I assume it did this while the car was on). So would try supply the necessary current, overshoot that, then under compensate it.
Also, from what I've seen from the OBC hidden menu, is that the voltage while the engine is running is around 14 Volts. Don't know if this will affect things...
A further thing to check is that no wires on your made up board are loose. Perhaps that is the intermittent current issue... :dunno:
brukutu
///Member
applehero said:
My computer can also measure voltage...voltage out of outlet with car off 13.8 or so...with car on 14-15V
Current issues is not due to loose wires, as i checked with the car off, but straight from the battery.
I dont think ECU controls anything to do with the power outlets.
What i think it happened was, the PSU pulse chargers the battery, so it shoots to 15A then it chill and shoots to 15A and so on....now that ligther socket male plug, gets hot, and cools down, get hot and cools down, but I believe it gets hotter then it cools, therefore bulding up heat on the fuse spring, then eventually spring melting onto the plastic, then loosing good contact with the fuse (just before full meldown i noticed voltage droping and shooting from 8-9V to 12V (spring not so good at that point) and eventually going off.
This will all be sorted by suplying the PSU with wires straight from battery (thanks to the fact that battery is in the boot
) and just doing a cut out circuit with a relay so that the battery is no longer connected to the PSU when the IGN is off to stop the PSU from drawing the battery dead when car is off.Any thoughts? Comments?
Also thinking to upgrade software from Centrafuse 2 to Centrafuse 3.
Hi Brukutu, thanks for your answer! If you succeed doing that, it'll be a great job! :clap:
On my side, I am still struggling with getting an appropriate audio-cable (2.5mm -> 3.5 mm
stereo (gold contacts), pin-jacks at 90 degrees, length 1.0/1.5m) for my mio v735...
I am looking forward to seeing your pictures of the connection of the CID to the radio.
Cheers, aj
On my side, I am still struggling with getting an appropriate audio-cable (2.5mm -> 3.5 mm
stereo (gold contacts), pin-jacks at 90 degrees, length 1.0/1.5m) for my mio v735...
I am looking forward to seeing your pictures of the connection of the CID to the radio.
Cheers, aj
zaleonardz
Well-known member
Howdy,
I just read your explination about the 15A pulses, it sounds plausable.
I think we do a 12v to 12v DC powersupply. I dont know if you know anything about powersupplies, but in essensce, this device monitors a DC signal, converts it to AC electronically, passes it though a transformer, rectifies it back to DC.
The added advantage of this is that if you have unstable power input, that you can stabalize the output electronicly. a fluctuation on the input is detected, and the conversion frequancy to AC is then increased, as visa versa.
I know we do 24 to 24 not sure about 12v though, will check it out.
Our quint range of powersupplies also have a "boost function", meaning a 10A supply can give double its current rating for a short time period, such as motors starting up.. but actually, our power supplies can deliver double its designed current rating indefinatly.
I will check on the morrow if we have a 12 to 12, and that should sort out your stablility issues
I just read your explination about the 15A pulses, it sounds plausable.
I think we do a 12v to 12v DC powersupply. I dont know if you know anything about powersupplies, but in essensce, this device monitors a DC signal, converts it to AC electronically, passes it though a transformer, rectifies it back to DC.
The added advantage of this is that if you have unstable power input, that you can stabalize the output electronicly. a fluctuation on the input is detected, and the conversion frequancy to AC is then increased, as visa versa.
I know we do 24 to 24 not sure about 12v though, will check it out.
Our quint range of powersupplies also have a "boost function", meaning a 10A supply can give double its current rating for a short time period, such as motors starting up.. but actually, our power supplies can deliver double its designed current rating indefinatly.
I will check on the morrow if we have a 12 to 12, and that should sort out your stablility issues
brukutu
///Member
Everything done only waiting for CID to mount screen and still need to solve power issuesapplehero said:
zaleonardz said:
That might help hey. Thanks. The power source aka alternator and battery can easily supply de current. If not mistaken the wiring to the sockets rated at 30A. Issue is the connector. Can't find any connectors that can take it. Maybe a infused connector and snap the fuse after it
Leo, also please check if you guys got a regulated psu 12v to 5v or to 6v rated at around 2A. Also pricing on it. Thanks Leo.
zaleonardz
Well-known member
Sorry man, I can do 12-24v in to 24v out only, we dont have a 12 to 12. Our industry does not use them. that does not mean they dont exist though, do some research and see who makes them, there has to be somebody that does that.
I am sure however I can help you out with that connector, we do a full range of PCB mount, inline, rail connectors, some of our terminals has a blade fuse holder, meaning there is a mechanism on top of the terminal that holds the fuse so that you can open and close it.
A trip to our sales counter in Randburg should be able to help ya out in what your looking for.
I am sure however I can help you out with that connector, we do a full range of PCB mount, inline, rail connectors, some of our terminals has a blade fuse holder, meaning there is a mechanism on top of the terminal that holds the fuse so that you can open and close it.
A trip to our sales counter in Randburg should be able to help ya out in what your looking for.
brukutu
///Member
thread moved to general forum and also made it smaller and neater.
http://www.bmwfanatics.co.za/showthread.php?tid=7978
http://www.bmwfanatics.co.za/showthread.php?tid=7978
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