E39 530d - what can one do in case of engine runaway

[Solo Man]

Have read about and even saw a video clip about an X5 diesel engine destroying itself because of engine oil entering the turbo. As i have both a E39 530d and X5 3l diesel, is there any suggestions as to what to do in case this should happen?
I see P1000 mentioned keeping a fire extinguisher in the car in case of such a senario, but what do you do if the paw-paw hits the fan?

 

[MikeR]

sit and watch and tape it...diesel will continue to detonate until fuel runs out nothing you can do - it wont burn so dont fear.
But its a very rare occurrence - my old man is a diesel mech by trade and has never seen it happen in his lifetime all 75 years of it..

 

[Hellas]

One could argue that you could spray the CO2 extinguisher into the air intake to smother the engine, but unless decently applied this will not work (as proven by Mythbusters ) or secondly hit the handbrake, footbrake and try to stall in 2nd gear, but you risk buggering the gearbox/clutch too.

 

[Ralf*]

One could argue that you could spray the CO2 extinguisher into the air intake to smother the engine, but unless decently applied this will not work (as proven by Mythbusters ) or secondly hit the handbrake, footbrake and try to stall in 2nd gear, but you risk buggering the gearbox/clutch too.

the 530d is automatic....so the "in gear" trick isn't going to work.

In my early years i worked for a Diesel Electric workshop in Brakpan, and witnessed a turbo runaway on a Turbo Diesel VW Passat....the technician was furiously ripping away at fuel lines and electrical looms....with no reaction, then another "cool-thinking" technician got in the drivers seat, put it into gear and released the clutch against the foot brake.....done

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PS...I also have a 2001 530d and it has also crossed my mind as well....what to do ?

 

[WerriesM5]

If it is to happen to a auto BMW,,,,, run!!!!

 

[P1000]

You can try to smother the engine by using a plank on the intake right before the air filter. (Do not try to use a body part) Or maybe a CO2 extinguisher, though I don't know if it will work. Or cut the pipe between the intercooler and the intake manifold to prevent oil from entering the engine, although it will be under great pressure so it might not be the best idea.

@MikeR It is not fuel that is burnt, it is oil that comes from worn out turbo seals, thus the engine feeds on its own oil until there is no more left, and it is completely destroyed.

 

[msm]

Put in drive and aim it at your nearest taxi :ka-boom:

 

[WyKiD]

Put in drive and aim it at your nearest taxi :ka-boom:

a useful diesel....runs and hides :grin:

 

[stevie G]

Put in drive and aim it at your nearest taxi :ka-boom:

like! :grin:

 

[Solo Man]

OK guys, i have heard all the advise, now i need to know how to prevent this from happening. Am i right in saying that the seals on the turbo is the problem. They leak and oil gets into the hot turbo, it combusts and it spools up and that is the end???
I have replaced the toilet roll type oil seperator with the upgraded type, the air filter is new, but what else to do??

 

[P1000]

OK guys, i have heard all the advise, now i need to know how to prevent this from happening. Am i right in saying that the seals on the turbo is the problem. They leak and oil gets into the hot turbo, it combusts and it spools up and that is the end???
I have replaced the toilet roll type oil seperator with the upgraded type, the air filter is new, but what else to do??

Replace the turbo... (and not with a rebuilt one, get an OEM one from the garrett distributor, they are relatively cheap @ R9500...)

That is the only way to guarantee that you won't run into this problem. Changing the crankcase breather (loo roll) every third service is a good protocol and will help prevent this from happening, though.

oh, and BTW. The oil leaks past the turbo seals into the intake manifold through the intake valves into the combustion chamber (engine) where it gets combusted and makes the engine run.

 

[MikeR]

You can try to smother the engine by using a plank on the intake right before the air filter. (Do not try to use a body part) Or maybe a CO2 extinguisher, though I don't know if it will work. Or cut the pipe between the intercooler and the intake manifold to prevent oil from entering the engine, although it will be under great pressure so it might not be the best idea.

@MikeR It is not fuel that is burnt, it is oil that comes from worn out turbo seals, thus the engine feeds on its own oil until there is no more left, and it is completely destroyed.

OIL IS STILL FUEL IN A DIESEL - so in retrospect....when all the fuel is burnt.

 

[spawn616]

ther is nothing wrong with rebuilt turbos,@9500(relatively cheap,almost fell off my chair wen i read that,) you can have your old turbo rebuilt 3 times with 6 month warranty on each rebuild,
the race turbo on my honda was 10k,10k is not cheap

 

[Sankekur]

I think you would do well to listen to what P1000 says, as he really knows his stuff.

 

[spawn616]

i think not in this case,my race turbo has been rebuilt before for 3k last year,the reason it failed is because the wastegate gt stuck and the motor tried to see what 400kw was like,and a piece of the sleeve did a dance in the turbo,ther is nothing wrong with rebuilt turbos as long as u take it to a well known company

 

[P1000]

i think not in this case,my race turbo has been rebuilt before for 3k last year,the reason it failed is because the wastegate gt stuck and the motor tried to see what 400kw was like,and a piece of the sleeve did a dance in the turbo,ther is nothing wrong with rebuilt turbos as long as u take it to a well known company

Your race car does not have a VNT turbo. Read Garrett's paper on why you should not rebuild them. But I agree it is possible, but only if you know what you are doing and do not touch the VNT mechanism. The other issue with the rebuild is that the impeller blades are under immense stress at 150000rpm (radial forces), and the rapid acceleration and deceleration of them in the turbo means that they start to suffer from fatigue cracks at the mileage most of these cars are now (200kkm). This leads to the exact thing you will see - many of these turbos fail by spewing out a turbine blade. I have heard of as many occurrences of that happening as plain bearing failure. That is why I recommend that you rather buy the whole turbo @R9500 as opposed to a rebuilt one for R6500. R9500 is cheap in relation to what you will pay for many other OEM turbos - like KKK etc. Or like the Polo TDI - R45k (integrated into exh manifold.)

 

[spawn616]

To replace the beairing and impeller is a simple service kit,that u can order from garrett,turbo direct in meyerton is very good and have rebuilt many vnt or holset turbos,as I said to u in pm,I do not believe our turbos see the extreme temps as the uk diesels do,to replace seals is a far less expensive job than replacing a whole turbo,unless ur housing has hairline cracks then yes I do agree with you in replacing the turbo

 

[P1000]

Turbo Direct and Turbo Exchange are probably the only places I recommend for this job (they do the work), unless you have experience or think you are up for this. I just prefer the peace of mind that comes with a new turbo. If you are already going to do the/pay for labour, might as well do it properly 1st time.

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To replace the beairing and impeller is a simple service kit,that u can order from garrett,turbo direct in meyerton is very good and have rebuilt many vnt or holset turbos,as I said to u in pm,I do not believe our turbos see the extreme temps as the uk diesels do,to replace seals is a far less expensive job than replacing a whole turbo,unless ur housing has hairline cracks then yes I do agree with you in replacing the turbo

What was the VNT turbos used in? I see holset VGT turbos use a completely different technology than VNT - and it should not suffer from the same perils.

 

[Solo Man]

I am from down under in the Cape region and plan to drive up to Pretoria within the next two weeks. If i visit one of the above mentioned service centres and have my car's turbo serviced/overhauled (bearings, seals, impeller), how long will it take and roughly how much moola?? Anyone with an answer, please help. Also, are these guys the only ones? What about Alpine Developements, do the service/overhaul turbos? And where are they located, as i plan to drive to Durbs after the service. They will have to remove and refitt the turbo as well.