E36 turbo build advice

bac

New member
Hey guys in process of piecing together a build, need some input. I got a M50nv complete engine, was thinking using a m54 crank, m50nv rods with arps bolts, m50nv pistons, Arp main + head bolts, new water/oil pumps/gaskets etc, stock m50nv head (maybe send to do solid lifter +cams). Suggestions on correct headgasket to use? Using a garret gt35 bb turbo and prob get local fab guys to build top mount branch and intake mani with big tb. Plan to run 0.5bar on pump, and say 1.5bar or 50/50 ethanol. Want to keep it as a high comp build due to the ethanol, will tune using a Haltech 2000. Can perhaps do the Copper ring inserts around the sleeves for better gasket sealing? Been reading up tons and all seem to say setup should hold and seem very stout motors. What's your thoughts guys?
 

Gizmo

Banned
Is there a reason why you are choosing the non vanos head? Vanos will help spool the turbo faster. Solid lifters are not needed unless you want spin the motor beyond 7000rpm and also m54b30 cranks don't exactly like high rpms. Don't use stock NV pistons and rods as they will be the weak links in your build, rather install forged pistons and rods. Besides the NV rods are 140mm and won't work with the b30 crank. Keep the stock bore of 84mm and use a stock head gasket, you will only need pyramid rings if you bore the block out.
Get hold of shorty, he has a great m50 based motor making 800hp and can give you his recipe for success. Good luck.
 

bac

New member
Been searching up a bit and noticed the NV head flows better and has the dual springs, dint really want vanos due to vanos issues and management doesn't really run it well compare to oem ecu. The M50tu rod is 140mm, the NV is 135mm. Heard after 1bar the system starts to get pressurised even with the arps and the pyramid rings are a must. Hope shorty can chime in and give us some info.
 

Gizmo

Banned
Luckily the vanos on the E36 is very simple and easy enough to operate properly seeing as you going to use a proper ECU, it will be a cake walk.
The gasket issues you speak of are on motors with 86-87mm bore diameter where there is too little meat/gasket material between cylinders, you keeping 84mm bore which would use just a cometic MLS gasket, a stock gasket would also hold up at 84mm bore too.
TY on the rods, got 'em mixed up.
I think Shaid would prefer you PM him as I think there are a few little secrets that he doesn't want to share with the world.
 

Nikhil

Honorary ///Member
When you decide on what route you going, please put up a build thread as i am super interested :rollsmile: From the reading and reserch I have done the M50 NV head is alot better. Lots of mixed reviews about the commetic head gaskets from the states, Vac has a mls that seems to be ver highly rated.

A good recipie is

Eagle rods
Acl bearings
Forged pistons( Wiseco,CP, Arias)
Arp bolts everywhere.

The head can remain stock and just be refershed new lifters and valve steam seals. you could also port and polish :rollsmile:

The stock M50 manifold is also pretty good, ICS performance use it on the Boosted 1000hp M3 they built so I really wouldn’t change it unless boosting above 1,5bar. I honestly wouldn’t keep the 84mm bore and would rather go 84.5mm to have some fresh cylinder wall. The guys in the states and UK have bored upto 86mm on boosted M50 application so 84.5 is just scratching the surface really.

Keep in mind that a lightened flywheel will also aid in this setup at the sacrifice of some torque.
:=):
 

Major

Active member
Nikhil said:
The guys in the states and UK have bored upto 86mm on boosted M50 application so 84.5 is just scratching the surface really.

Keep in mind that a lightened flywheel will also aid in this setup at the sacrifice of some torque.
:=):

Some go as high as 87mm with a cutring, unless they're planning on insane power, M54 crank, and say hello to 3.2L.

As for the lightened flywheel, turbo's like load and time to spool, if this was a supercharger then yes go for it, but for a turbo a large number of the builds I've seen use the stock dual mass flywheel and a 6-puck unsprung clutch. At most maybe a lightened steel flywheel and a sprung clutch.

As for the rods, try find ones from the M52B28, and if not then the M54 while you get the crank. Both are forged, but the M54 is fracture split which is slightly lighter/weaker.

I'm interested in how you arrange the turbo and wastegate/s, us right-hand drive guys get pretty shanked with the E36 and trying to make a smooth intake path to the intercooler while trying to squeeze everything past the steering column on the exhaust side of things. Probably run a screamer pipe off the wastegate to save some effort. :)
 

bac

New member
Def gonna run the dual mass with upgrade clutch. As for the rods it real confusing as some say m50nv much stronger than m52, others opt different:hammerhead:. I do have access to all just to choose the correct one. I managed to source the Arp headstuds, just two minded on the Arp main studs if necessary over stock, or have spare s54 bits, maybe the studs are stronger and same sized? Other parts to swap from s54? Regarding the gasket should I run oem or Cometic or opt for the famous Cutring with the wire?
 

Major

Active member
bac said:
As for the rods it real confusing as some say m50nv much stronger than m52, others opt different:hammerhead:. I do have access to all just to choose the correct one.
I reckon just get the M54 crank and rods. If you're planning on big power the point is moot, go custom.

bac said:
I managed to source the Arp headstuds, just two minded on the Arp main studs if necessary over stock, or have spare s54 bits, maybe the studs are stronger and same sized? Other parts to swap from s54?
What power are you planning on? And is the cost of main studs a dealbreaker, when they buy peace of mind?

bac said:
Regarding the gasket should I run oem or Cometic or opt for the famous Cutring with the wire?
Again, is the price a dealbreaker? Obviously if you have a decent workshop then the cutring and wire is what you want, because some day when you want more power you'll wish you did. Whether it must be a thicker gasket depends on your piston plans, whether you'll go custom or not, etc.
 
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