E36 M3 *new owner*

[Sheldo]

I agree with a lot of the above comments,

Go m50.
Swap and chat internals, head bolts , gaskets as required to achieve you power goal.
Get the turbo, manifold, wasgate, blow of valve you want, and intercooleer mounting, piping , intercooler.

I think this will be the most cost effective way to get a strong motor into your car. Its still a BMW l6 which is a plus. I read lots of build where people just add are headstuds and a thicker gasket to lower comprecion then boost from there making good power.
Google m50b25 turbo build, you l find a lot of good info out there

I wanted to do this on my e34 525i when I had it

Go m50

All the custom this and that with a 1/2jz swap and the fabrications, electronics etc, too much hassle and expensive to get it looking. And working properly, expensive as well

Good luck my 2c

Thank you so much for the reply. Will definitely look. There are lots of info that is pointing me into the m50 route. I will just need to wrap my head around the whole engine management etc. How that works.


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Would it not be cheaper/better to repair and upgrade the original motor? Is that possible?

For the power goals I doubt that will be a cheaper option. But I could be wrong

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[Sheldo]

So just thought I'd update you guys on the events of the project car. I've sold the M3 motor and purchased a M52B28 Cast Iron block. I'm going to put the motor in NA for now and turbo charge it over time. once its running it gives me time to sort out the interior and odds and ends that need attention. I've also had the M3 clutch buttoned so I can still track the car NA and see whats what. I bought the M52 with the original ECU and wiring harness to escape using a stand alone management right now. Ive also replaced the hideous red oil filter housing with a more OEM silver one. cleaned out the oil sump. not sure why, my OCD kicked in. I'm also not using the standard headers - I will be going with the m3 header and exhaust combo. Please give me any advice with installing the new motor as I'm doing all the work myself - purely from a cost and passion point of view. any advice with the ecu and wiring will be greatly appreciated as well. here are some progress pics

 

[KingKalie]

This is like reverse phsycology, put a 328i badge on an m3 :smilebounce: i hope it gets a huge turbo in the near future

 

[Sheldo]

This is like reverse phsycology, put a 328i badge on an m3 :smilebounce: i hope it gets a huge turbo in the near future

LOL! everyone cannot understand my logic.. it will definitely have a big turbo in the near future. otherwise this is a massive sin I'm commiting

 

[KingKalie]

I totally get it, besides you are giving new life to a fantastic machine again, N/A m52b28 or turbo beast.. either way it's still a great car

 

[Captain_Stealth]

Try get a non vanos head


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[KingKalie]

Try get a non vanos head


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Agreed especially for turbo application, it's kinda useless.. although he could always just go for the stroker option on the engine as it is and we'll all just call it a US spec m3 :biglol:

 

[Sheldo]

Try get a non vanos head


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it does have a non Vanos head already. thanks for the input!

 

[Sheldo]

I totally get it, besides you are giving new life to a fantastic machine again, N/A m52b28 or turbo beast.. either way it's still a great car

thank you for the support! really appreciate it! I just cannot wait to drive it now. it needs so much work that I can do once its running.

 

[Sheldo]

Hi guys ! Need some assistance with my build. The motor is in and swinging - I’ve done ews delete - but I assume my ews is still interfering and holding back fuel and spark to the motor

The DME and fuel relays are getting no power..

Can anyone here recommended someone that can come to me and align my DME to the ews for a reasonable price ? *in Sandton area*

Thank you in advance!


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[KingKalie]

Pause for a minute, DME from m52b28 motor? Crank and cam sensors good?

 

[Nikhil]

Bru from all reading ive done today if it was EWS causing the issue the car wont even swing so no power to the starter.

Did some digging on the ECU that you have plugged (Bosch Silver Label) in and got the below

525i
E34
M50/B25 Non Vanos
thru 8/91
0 261 200 405
Bosch Motronic M3.1 N

located EWS II module (it is on the passenger side with a big yellow plug under the knee bolster), bridge wires 1 & 3 together is the ignition switch that sends power to the starter. Each wire is black with yellow. Next, at the engine bay, next to the diagnostic port, is the wiring harness. clip the # 7 wire (This wire is the one that sends the signal to pin #66 on the DME side letting it know that the EWSII is active). So by cutting the #7 wire earlier, the EWS II is not sending a signal

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Pause for a minute, DME from m52b28 motor? Crank and cam sensors good?

328 block, 325 NV head and intake, 525 NV ECU, Everything else E36 M3

 

[Sheldo]

Yes ok I see. So in order for the car to swing - does the DME have to have power ? Coz I’m picking up no power on DME relay and fuel relay.


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[Nikhil]

Yes ok I see. So in order for the car to swing - does the DME have to have power ? Coz I’m picking up no power on DME relay and fuel relay.


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DME will signal the starter so that is definitely working.

 

[individj]

relay good?

 

[KingKalie]

The crank pulse sends signals to the DME and FP relays, so if the crank sensor is bad it won't activate the relays, if the relays are bad you wont get power to the pump or DME, do you have spark on all cylinders? are the injectors pulsing? does the FP work when it's jumped?

 

[Sheldo]

Yes pump works if it’s jumped. I don’t know if there is spark. I put in a new crank sensor before trying to swing it.that does sound like the problem I’m having tho. If I connect the fuel pump fuse to direct power it runs constantly. But fuse is getting 0.04v.


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[KingKalie]

Best to get a multimeter and test the crank and cam sensor should read around 540 to 1280 if I'm not mistaken. and check for spark before you pull the sensors, faulty crank sensor will cause low or no spark and won't activate relays as mentioned before, also make sure the injector rail ground is secured when checking for pulsing

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Have you tried to start the car while the pump is jumped?

 

[Sheldo]

Oh ok - I’ll check for that injector ground. I haven’t checked that. I did try swing with the pump on - it doesn’t start. So no spark makes sense.


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[Nikhil]

Oh ok - I’ll check for that injector ground. I haven’t checked that. I did try swing with the pump on - it doesn’t start. So no spark makes sense.


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just remember the throttle body is closed and the icv is not connected so the engine is not getting any oxygen so need to get that sorted aswell along with the grounding on the coils