E36 M3 Fuel Smell

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Administrator
Staff member
I assume the harnesses would be different in the 3.0 M and the 3.2 M but am not certain. There was a 3.0 ecu for sale on the forum not too long ago. There are a few other cars that also use the same Bosch ecu as the S50B30 :thumbs:


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Gizmo

Banned
I have a 06/1995 3.0lt m3 DME here, I don't know if its working or not, but doesn't it need to be aligned with the EWS or is it before EWS came out?
WBSBF92060EA68875
 

Gizmo

Banned
Come grab it and see if you can get it to work, if so then gimme R1k for it, if not then return it.:thumbs:
 

Prev

Administrator
Staff member
Gizmo said:
Come grab it and see if you can get it to work, if so then gimme R1k for it, if not then return it.:thumbs:

That's a good deal :thumbs::bravo:
 

V'NOLAN

Member
thank you Gizmo. ill give you a call this weekend to collect if you available seeing as its a long weekend
 

Peter@AEW

BMWFanatics Advertiser
Official Advertiser
V said:
will keep you guys posted.

think i should start my own thread

That is always a good idea as it tracks events on the car and should you ever wish to sell it is open for any prospective buyer to see.

Think of it as virtual service history
 

V'NOLAN

Member
So the car has come back from Budler today. Good part is that the idle and responsiveness is back

Now for the bad part :argh:
The engine seems 100% and I've been told that there's no way a 3.2 ecu will work on my motor but the car is not performing. It has a RGM exhaust, K&N filter and chip from a mods perspective.




The 2 do list



The car is still burning rich. You can only smell it when the car is at a standstill and the Window is open.
The idle is still uneven. The Rev counter does not jump but you can hear it. Is that normal?
what is the standard kw output for a 3lt M up here?
 

B16A4

Member
thats bad news buddy. definitely the ECU is messing things up for you and you are even lucky to have the car running
 

Peter@AEW

BMWFanatics Advertiser
Official Advertiser
Two things looking at the dyno graph.
1. Vanos seals and solenoid seals......both will give idle and performance issues and the torque dips from 2k to 5k.
2. DME is not doing its job as the power is too low and I know that the compression on the car is ok.

I would for one try and get hold of another DME unit to compare against yours.
I would equally do the vanos work and have the cams checked for alignment.

A clean 328 produces more power that your car. (Before Lysis did vanos on his 328 it was producing 116Kw and running extremely lean at the top range....he unfortunately did not manage a post vanos work dyno as the car was sold)
 

V'NOLAN

Member
Im trying to get ahold of Gizmo to collect it and do the swop out to check

I spoke to Morne about the power issues and he said that if the Ecu was an issue it would have reflected on his checks and given errors. His suggestion is that I try their chips.

Standard e36 M3's make between 115 - 117kw on their dyno

Not sure what the costs are to do Vanos seals and solenoid seals and once open is it better to change/replace/refurb other parts attached to those housings / units
 

ClassicB

///Member
V said:
Im trying to get ahold of Gizmo to collect it and do the swop out to check

I spoke to Morne about the power issues and he said that if the Ecu was an issue it would have reflected on his checks and given errors. His suggestion is that I try their chips.

Standard e36 M3's make between 115 - 117kw on their dyno

Not sure what the costs are to do Vanos seals and solenoid seals and once open is it better to change/replace/refurb other parts attached to those housings / units

If they do around 115wkw on their dyno, your car would only be losing about 8-10wkw.

If you doing vanos seals, I would get the rattle repair kit while you at it and replace the valve cover gasket with a new one
 

K33G4N

New member
Now it makes sense why you were taking long to catch up to me last time!:thumbdo: WTF

Did you reset the adaptations as yet?

Thats like the easiest thing to try, and its free.....
 

K33G4N

New member
This is what I was told and what I did to reset the ECU.

Disconnect negative cable of battery for 1 hour. After an hour reconnect the battery.

Take the car for a smooth 45min to 1 HR drive. DONT FLOOR IT !!!

Busting it when car is over fueling or under fueling can damage pistons engine spark plugs etc. The ecu will reset and re-calibrate ur air fuel ratios etc.

Might reset the chip also. But doesn't sound like the chip is doing any good. I'd rather remove the chip.

So this is what I was told to do, I tried it, and it definitely worked. Car felt smoother, no stuttering/fluttering or hesitation when pressed the throttle. Fuel consumption dropped by about 2L per 100km
 
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