technical BMW E46 330i Engine Rebuild OEM+

TheFlash

New member
This is going to be a journey.

Was originally intending to do some basic maintenance on my 2002 E46 330i.
The original list
- Sump gasket, small oil leak (needed to drop subframe)
- Add headers, remove cats
- Water pipes: plastic parts are aging
- Engine and gearbox mounts
- Driveshaft flex disc
- Diff oil
- Gearbox oil

Attached are some basic pictures of what I started with. It should be noted that the car has been well maintained over the years. This leak started as a tiny drip and was only present for a few months before I started addressing.

Anyway, below are the basic bits ordered; little did I think at the time this was going to spiral into a full build.

The headers were ordered from UK, very hard to get well-fitting ones for RHD

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The original plan was to use E46 M3 headers cut off the ends, and TIG-weld stainless flanges. This is still doable but without a proper jig and flanges to align, it would be time-consuming and require a lot of trial and error.
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Some new lambda sensors with longer wires to match new locations lower down


Turner Motorsport solid rubber engine mounts: I originally thought the flex disc was worn due to a loose feeling when taking of hard; it turned out to be a broken engine mount, which I only discovered later. Worth noting the diff mounts were changed a while ago with OE ones.
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Blank off the unused lambda sensor bung, as this car only had the primary; it would have coded out the secondary anyway.
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The leak that started this
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Worth noting SGF makes the original flex joint so this is same as OE
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I used OE Diff and Transmission oilsIMG_8692.jpeg
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Let's just start the journey; I removed the headers, not the easiest thing to remove.
Need to remove bolts with various socket sets and extensions 1/4" and 3/8"

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Noticed this bracket, which supports the exhaust, was broken; will get to rewelding it later
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Test-fitting the headers; fitment was perfect. The O2 sensors had no issues contacting the engine or body, with plenty of clearance; the steering universal joint also cleared this well.

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The exhaust flange end of the headers
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Intake removed to get to all the water pipes I wanted to replace.
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The turning point: ever since this car was new, it has consumed a fair amount of oil. Over the years, it slowly started to increase the amount it took.

The car at this point had 240 000Kms on the clock and was consuming about 1L per 2500Kms, I knew this was most likely due to the two-piece oil ring design that BMW used and workarounds such as the pilot mod. I was going to change the spark plugs and was looking at the buildup around them, and the fact that I had removed everything around the engine to do the above-mentioned items, I said to myself, the engine could come out quite easily now :), and thus I went down the rabbit hole.
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TheFlash

New member
Chapter One - Tools to remove the engine

Bolt-on supports for the jack stands; these help secure into the factory jack spots and safely support the car

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The jacks I use: this low-profile jack helps get the front end up. The car is on H&R sports with Koni STR shocks, so normal trolley jacks don't work. I also have a higher-lift low-profile jack to lift the rear, as the racing jack runs out of lift.
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A cheap engine stand did the job and made things easier

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This engine stand with the balance bar made it possible to put engine and gearbox back in case as one assembly

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The car support on stands
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TheFlash

New member
Chapter Two: The Side Quest

What really took care of the road for a week or so was a failed water pipe. I had changed the main radiator hoses to Stett Performance hoses, what I didn't expect to fail was the plastic flange that connects the hose to the thermostat. This happened one night, and I had my car flat-bedded home.

The towing service attached the safety hook to the lower control arm and forgot to remove it before trying to roll the car of. I only notice the resulting damage the next morning.

I used the TRS (cheapie) to make sure nothing else was damaged, replaces with something much better than original later.
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The final replacement from Turner MS helped give better camber adjustment, with the car riding lower.

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Installed, there are two types of these camber arms which Turner sells. It's worth noting that the adjustment here is on the outside, which helps because on the left side the exhaust would be in the way when doing wheel alignment on the other version
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Got a set of water pipes only for the plastic flanges; I suspect the broken engine mount might have also contributed to the aging flange

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Needed a car with weight on it to torque the control arms; the diff had to be unbolted and moved out of the way to get the left control arm bolt out. Other than that, it was a simple job.
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TheFlash

New member
Chapter Three - Engine Removal
Incredible write up... Please share where you got those supports for the jack stands please?
I originally bought them from eBay, but I also found them here

 
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TheFlash

New member
Chapter Three - Engine Removal

Remove Intake, Exhaust Manifolds

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Remove the drive shaft bolts on the gearbox side from the flex disc
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The driveshaft removed
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The gear linkage removal
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Gearbox removed
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The flywheel is visible once the gearbox has been removed
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Remove the engine harness and bell housing bolts.

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Finally, the engine is removed and mounted to the stand

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The empty engine bay

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TheFlash

New member
Chapter Four - The Engine Teardown

Vanos Removed
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The dual mass flywheel wasn't in bad condition but LUK clutch and flywheel replacement was ordered
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The pressure plate
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Clutch after 240 000kms
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Head removed condition of cylinders

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Camshaft had some scoring, but apparently this is normal on M54's
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Head crated up for shipment to Vanderlinder Racing for gas flow, engineering, and CAMs
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Bottom end being taken apart
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Rod bearings were not in bad shape for the mileage
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Upper rod bearing
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Main bearings could have been reused
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The only real issue was the oil rings; they had a 2mm gap. The compression rings were still within tolerance, but as mentioned previously, oil rings were a known issue even when the car was new; it seems to be only the 3L M54s. I think the 2.5L used a 3-piece oil control ring
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The carbonised exhaust side of the head
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