Anti-Trap Error

[CrimsonJared]

I have a 2007 320i e90, the other day i opened all the windows cause it was hot, and then when i tried to roll them all back up, the back left didn't move, didn't even make a noise.

So after some research, i unplugged the battery, and then plugged back in, reset all the windows. and they all worked fine. except the back left would stick a bit when its completely open and wanted to close. And now the anti-trap error beeps and pops up every 10-12 seconds.

I took car to SMG in Century City (cape town), and they ran diagnostics, and said the error is related to the module. they replaced with another one for testing and seemed to fix the problem. But they want to charge me R6500 to replace with new one.

Is there not a way to recode/reset it, or remove the actual error message? Its so annoying driving with the noise every few seconds. Would really appreciate any help.

 

[Dewald Basson]

I have a 2007 320i e90, the other day i opened all the windows cause it was hot, and then when i tried to roll them all back up, the back left didn't move, didn't even make a noise.

So after some research, i unplugged the battery, and then plugged back in, reset all the windows. and they all worked fine. except the back left would stick a bit when its completely open and wanted to close. And now the anti-trap error beeps and pops up every 10-12 seconds.

I took car to SMG in Century City (cape town), and they ran diagnostics, and said the error is related to the module. they replaced with another one for testing and seemed to fix the problem. But they want to charge me R6500 to replace with new one.

Is there not a way to recode/reset it, or remove the actual error message? Its so annoying driving with the noise every few seconds. Would really appreciate any help.

Google the problem yet, I will bet you are not the first person who has had this issue. So maybe there is a DIY on the web

 

[CrimsonJared]

@Dewald
I have looked, I've tried all the resetting of windows etc. and doesn't seem to work. A lot of the people are mentioned setting in iDrive, but I don't have that feature.
Im not clued up on the coding or recoding of these types of things. And my warranty doesn't cover the replacing of the module.

 

[Lizzard]

Can the window move when you press the switch up and down?

Try and reinitialise that window again, maybe then the error will clear.

 

[CrimsonJared]

Can the window move when you press the switch up and down?

Try and reinitialise that window again, maybe then the error will clear.

It does move. the one-touch works. most of the time.
If the window is open completely, and I try to close the window. It moves maybe 1cm and then back down (as if its stuck), but eventually after 2 or 3 pulls of the button, it works normally.

---

Ok, so i tried this now.

Switched car on, engine running.
went to original window that gave the problem.
I rolled down window all the way.
held down button (to 2nd point) for 17 seconds
immediately pulled switch up to 2nd point and it moved up maybe 1/4 of the way and it stopped, i waiting for a little while, but nothing. if i let go and continue to bring it up but pulling on the button. it eventually starts working.

am i doing something wrong?

 

[Dewald Basson]

@Dewald
I have looked, I've tried all the resetting of windows etc. and doesn't seem to work. A lot of the people are mentioned setting in iDrive, but I don't have that feature.
Im not clued up on the coding or recoding of these types of things. And my warranty doesn't cover the replacing of the module.

Maybe contact gert at obdworkx. He does coding.

Link = click


Pretty sure he can sort you out

 

[CrimsonJared]

Thanks, i dropped him an email now

apparently, BMW say i need to replace this part:
http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-215221-61359364821-genuine-bmw-part.aspx

A Body Control Junction box P61359364821, does anyone know if there is a generic of these? should it be the problem...

 

[Lizzard]

Nooooooo.......

Definitely speak to Gert first

 

[Ratslaaf]

Eish, yes it does sound like the junction box has a problem. And if they installed another one to confirm then I guess that's the culprit.

As a last ditch attempt, you can attempt to reset it with Rheingold (although I would've thought the dealer did this), you can ping Chris Brand as he is in CT.

You can pick these up from the scrap yards for muuuch cheaper tho, around R1k for them up here. Just make sure you get the exact one (H1, H2, H3). It'll also have to be coded to the car, but I'll be able to assist remotely with the help of Chris.

 

[CrimsonJared]

Eish, yes it does sound like the junction box has a problem. And if they installed another one to confirm then I guess that's the culprit.

As a last ditch attempt, you can attempt to reset it with Rheingold (although I would've thought the dealer did this), you can ping Chris Brand as he is in CT.

You can pick these up from the scrap yards for muuuch cheaper tho, around R1k for them up here. Just make sure you get the exact one (H1, H2, H3). It'll also have to be coded to the car, but I'll be able to assist remotely with the help of Chris.

Ah man, you are the bomb! you are giving me hope
is it possible to check the parts before? i.e. i don't want to buy one from scrap yard and then its also faulty?

and another thing, how would i be able to tell which one it is? H1? H2?

How much would Chris charge to try and reset it?

 

[Ratslaaf]

Hey bud, the only way to check if parts are ok is to install them and see. Most scrapyards will take a part back if it doesn't work and you can prove it.

The type is printed on the case in big white letters. Just take yours out as a sample.

Best would be to ping Chris on the forum for assistance.

Ta,

 

[CrimsonJared]

Hey bud, the only way to check if parts are ok is to install them and see. Most scrapyards will take a part back if it doesn't work and you can prove it.

The type is printed on the case in big white letters. Just take yours out as a sample.

Best would be to ping Chris on the forum for assistance.

Ta,

Thanks, is it easy to take out? I'm not so clued up with working on cars, so will have to do some research.

And another thing, being a noob, how does one ping someone on the forum?

edit: no worries, i searched and found his profile, dropped him an email from there

 

[Ratslaaf]

Actually, it sucks donkey bits to take the JBE out. You have to remove the panel under the glovebox, and then the glovebox. The JBE is located right below the fuse box.

Once done, there's two 54 pin connectors that must be removed. Above the JBE it's fattened to the fuse box with two torx15 screws.

The painful part is removing the connector behind the JBE. It's one of those where you pull the clip sideways and the connector comes off. Once that's done, you can unplug the JBE from the fuse box and voila

 

[CrimsonJared]

So just to fill anyone in that might be interested.

The fault was with the actual door/window mechanism, and after replacing and recoding... everything is sorted. was still quite expensive.
Apparently, when the guys took the Junction box out of the other car, and put it into mine, it didn't have the code error yet, it would have come up after some time anyway. So I won't be going to BMW anymore, I'm going to a guy in Bellville, at a Garage808. great service!