Alternator issues on the e34 535i

Gerhardm32

///Member
Hi All,

I have read this thread, http://www.bmwfanatics.co.za/showthread.php?tid=4690&highlight=altenator ,the only test not done is in post 5, "I took lead off battery and car died and A check can be done at night with engine idling and lights on , then watch if lights brighten as you rev the motor to say 2000 revs .They should brighten if alternator is working". I will try this, but I replaced the battery today and Autozone came up with the solution that my regulator is stuffed, NOT, I replaced it 1 May 2010 with a brand new 1 from Midas, not even a secondhand 1. The alternator charged at 13.08v when he tested it, then he had this new idea of brushes inside the alternator :thinking: :dunno:, I am dumb with these things. All I know is the regulators are the main problem on the new cars, it's not like the old days with brushes and diodes and stuff anymore. Can anyone tell me about this and if so, how much to fix it because I am very close to sell or use matches on this car. It's just so frustrating not to know how to on this complex car. I have tested the alternator a home and it was charging at 13.22v at that stage.:)
 

netercol

New member
just bear in mind its kinda risky removing one lead from the battery while the car is running, easy to cause a voltage spike on a electronic heavy car like a beemer.. leaving you with more than a busted altenator.

if the voltage stays stable at about 13.5 to 14 volts while idling and reving up, it unlikely that the regulator is at fault.. its job is to keep the voltage from spiking.

what exactly is wrong?
 

zaleonardz

Well-known member
Gerhard,

If you are getting anything over 12.8 across the battery when the car is running, then it should charge, 13 is not perfect but its acceptable.

give us a better description of the issue, or is it just draining the battery ?

There is another painful test that you can do if you suspect a parasidic drain.

Fully charge up the battery on a bench using a bench charger. Make sure that the car, interior lights, and everything is off

Rip out all the fuses, and connect an AMP meter in series, put the fuses back one one by one, and if you find a significant increase in current draw, then there is your problem, everything on that line.

A parasidic drain is prob one of the worst faults on a car :(
 

Gerhardm32

///Member
For the last 2 months the battery drained within 12 hours to about 10v which does not start the car, which means jump start or put a charger on it for a while, then while you drive the battery drains and by the 4th time you start it, it's jump start time again, which means the alternator is not charging, but I have this suspecion that the charging is not the same as in a manual car. I have taken the volt meter on numerous drives connected to the battery while driving and it went from 12.9v to 13.63v, everytime is different. So I am fed up with the guessing games of everyone and no one can give me a proper solution. Everytime I hear a different story and now after 2 months I have spend R2500 and a third battery already on this F:censored:G problem, I am ready to sell because I have wasted enough money and effort on a problem that is still with me.
 

Raybimmer

New member
Gerhard When I replaced my E36 325i regulator ( R170 at Diesel Electric EL ) the Bosch part no on box was 1197 311 090 and after that all was well .
IMHO you either have undercharging or battery fault .
If regulator is correct alternator should be charging at 13,8 volts , so 13.2 volts is close .Regulator has two brushes that make contact with commutator .
Battery can be given load test at battery retailer this will show up internal fault if present , battery may have 13,5 volts but when loaded the amperage is not enough to start car .(Nine torch batteries at 1.5 volts each give a total of 13,5 volts but amperage is very low )
Have you checked your discharge on your battery ? Is your alarm/immobiliser not draining the battery ? Can you disconnect it and check .
Can an auto electrician in your area test your alternator ?
Hope you come right , it is frustrating-I push started my car for about 2 months intermittently then replaced starter solenoid and now it seems ok . :thumbsup:
Was thinking of fixing my bike and showing the bm what what !!! :slap:
 

Gerhardm32

///Member
Ok new update, I replaced the battery today at 12:30 pm and got back home, tested it and the volts were on 12.54, thrown the charger on it on heavy duty for 1 and a half hour and then changed it trickle charge. I am currently at work since 18:00 and just went to check it, it's still on 12.72v and with the alarm active there were no drop in voltage as before, I think I found the problem, my battery supplier for 12 years now screwed up on this now and his number is no longer on my phone already. I bought this battery from Autozone and will go and test it at 3 am again. I should be able to know by monday if I am sorted or not. Thanks for all your input.:wave:

Thinking of it now, hopefully my battery survives till 6am, only had 1 hour sleep since yesterday at 17:00.
 

Gerhardm32

///Member
Update on this alternator is, there is nothing wrong with it. The car is now just fine, nothing pulling down the battery and the car starts everytime without the need to jump start since saturday.:) The batteries I got from my 12 year long supplier were vrot since day 1 evertime. :cursin: But to say the least, I am not going to use him ever again.:)
 

Raybimmer

New member
Great news but did you take the battery back for a check ( load cell test ) after fitting a new one each time ? They would charge the battery fully then apply a heavy load and after a set time measure the strength , which would show up an internal fault i.e. dead cell etc . What make of batteries were they ? Would it fit in the salesmans rectum ? ( probably full !!!)
 

Gerhardm32

///Member
Just an update on my flat battery problem, saturday morning it was dead again after 3 weeks of working fine, I found the problem today :excited: F:censored:G fuse holder on the radio broke and made a short from time to time, which then caused the battery to be drained. So I just took it out and soldered the wires back on. Just needed to give this update. I have just had enough troubles for now with a car. For the last 2 weeks it has just been endless stuff breaking and stop working on the 535i. :thumbsup:
 
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