All warning lights on 320d E90 Lci

[Cray]

Ok so I'm gonna ask the question and answer it :clapper: But was just hoping if someone had this before and/or could it be something ells wrong rather then the expensive part BMW says it is....I know, I know just trying to see and understand the problem better and if its common????

So 3 weeks ago went to the shop 800m from home, on my way back this happens.

Airbag Red Light, Car on Lift red light, ABS yellow, Traction yellow, ! red...one or two more cant remember. The speedometer, rev counter not working. Back light off. Flickers and hazards not working, electric windows not working, aircon not working, door lock button not working, key FOB to lock and unlock not working.....but hey the car drives perfectly fine.

At home I wanted to disconnect battery (like very clever google says), but I cant open boot, no key hole. So after crawling through the back seats and pulling hatch inside, I disconnected the battery like 20 min and connected again and bang all fine....for a week.

After doing the procedure a second time, all lights off and the only thing not working is my flickers, hazards, electric front windows. Took the car for diagnostic at BMW and they told me the following.

My control unit went and will cost 8k to be replaced. I tried to get more info, but thats about it. On the quote it says "Footwell Module"

On the diagnostic report it says the following and I quote...

"windows not working correctly. connect isid and batterychaerger. do quick test. work through test scheduel. found vehicle storing frm module fault. check voltagesupply. check fuses. vehicle storing no communication fault with frm. check lines and plug connections betweenfrm and gateway frm faulty and needs to be replaced." (I quoted exactly )

What is FRM...controll unit. I took my car to battery centre and they did a load test and it tested in the red?

Today all the lights came on again....seems like once a week...

Anyway...just thought I'd supply my experience with this electrical problem I'm facing at the moment, dont have 8k lying around now. Off the record they said I can drive like this as it should cause my car to die on me....oi oi oi

 

[akash]

Im no expert but maybe consider changing the car battery.

What charge is the battery giving off?

 

[Kish2604]

Change the battery first and check voltage supply from alternator...

 

[Ratslaaf]

Your FRM is busted. It's a big issue on the LCI cars. I do repair them for a loooot less than R8k. Send me a PM to discuss the way forward.

Ta,

Gert

 

[Cray]

Thanks for replies guys. I havent checked my battery charge, will check tonight. But I doubt its that's....but for reference will post results here.

Gert thanks, I assumed as much. I will send you a PM. I found this pick on the net so not mine, but is this where the FRM is located...

 

[DeanoBlado]

I had this on my LCI not so long ago, the dash had Christmas lights on. Was the battery that was low on charge.

 

[sclass]

F.R.M

 

[Ratslaaf]

Thanks for replies guys. I havent checked my battery charge, will check tonight. But I doubt its that's....but for reference will post results here.

Gert thanks, I assumed as much. I will send you a PM. I found this pick on the net so not mine, but is this where the FRM is located...

Yup, that's it. On the older preLCI cars they used FRMFA and FRM2. These are pretty much bullet proof. But the FRM3 used in cars from '09 onwards (1, 3, X1, X5, X6 and R56) are very sensitive to being jump started.

 

[nicholasslimpic]

May just be voltage related

 

[Cray]

Hey All just an update and some funny things my mind thinks :skit:

So obdworx can sort me out and will be my final resort once I can plan it and get some cash in ect.

But some stuff I've checked.

1. Voltage meter on battery when car is off reads 12.2 volt and when I start the car it averages 14.5/7 volt. So I am assuming the battery plus alt is fine.

2. At the moment its only my window cluster/buttons on drivers door, indicators and hazards that dont work. With the red car on lift light. Every second or 5th day then all lights come on again and aircon stops working. But then I just disconnect one of the positives (not the main one) by the battery for a second, reconnect and then all lights are of and only above not working.

3. The weekend I replaced my brake pads, cause they where long overdue. I then saw the front brake sensor, broke apart, with wires broken, touching, ect. Could this have caused a short? Anyway new pads and new sensors, did the reset and the brake warning lights are off and my car stops like it should

4. I read on the net (I know not all can be trusted) that cheap xenon globes can mess with the cars frm? Couple months ago my one globe blew and I bought 4 xenon globes from some indian racing shop, with chinese writing on the box...yes I know lol Then just before all this started happening, I had two yellow warning lights for globes, yet all my lights front and back is working. Then when this problem started, no more warning lights for my globes....is it possible that this caused it or am I scrapping at some cheap fix, when in fact I need my FRM repaired.

Lastly, I took the FRM out, to have a look (I'm a touchy feely kinda guy) and yes it is a FRM3, like said above. Very small pc board and looks very clean, with that rubbery spray stuff. No dry joints, no obvious blown capacitors, ect.

Anyway.....

Oh and I have never jump started my car or jump another car....so do they just go....

 

[Lizzard]

I see you are fault finding on the car, that's great to see you are willing to go and troubleshoot the car.

Regarding your disconnect of the other positive battery cable,..... please avoid this and disconnect the negative cable rather to be on the safe side. Don't touch those positive cables.

It does sound like you have a short maybe somewhere because why would the car be fine for a few days to give you and issue on the 5th day. Weird.

But try and see if you cant get to Gert to assist you in this, he is good in this and will resolve this faster then you think. He isn't expensive and his work is great (I know :rollsmile

Please keep us updated

 

[KarshS]

Happened to me as well.

Gert the boss sorted it out for me :rollsmile:

 

[Ratslaaf]

Cray, bud, it's the FRM I'm not joking when I say I do 8 to 12 of these a week.

 

[bmw mechanic]

Sounds like you have an FRM3 thats faulty....can be repaired...no need to replace

 

[tank288]

Ja sorry man i feel your pain. i have issues with my FRM as well... turns out i actually had the wrong FRM in mine some one managed to crowbar it in. and indicators and lights where crazy at times

i will also personally say GERT IS THE MAN !! he sorted me out in under a day and that's saying a lot as my car was FULL of faults at that time...

i am a DIY nut but sometimes it pains me to say it but it works out cheaper just taking it to someone that knows. With BMW electronics you don't want to just fiddle.

 

[Cray]

Thanks for everyone's remarks. Yeah I know its the FRM3...was just cool trying to check things myself.

Gert, dont worry buddy, will be sending it your way soon. Will PM you when ready

PS - I love you...wait what...Where is the CAS situated that I need to send with the FRM for you to do your magic

 

[Ratslaaf]

Hahaha, Im flattered but I would help without any such gestures :roflol:

Easiest way to get the CAS out is to remove the sunglasses holder by your right knee. Once this is removed (may need a little persuasion) you'll see the black CAS behind it. It's only get the one long M10 bolt on the left of it holding it down. It has a big black connector to the left and a ribbon type connector in the middle.

 

[gerald5ive]

I had a similar issue on my e90 320d. All lights on the dash came on. rev counter went wonky. Speedo would jump to 0 and then to my current speed. Gearbox would randomly go into limp mode etc. ABS DTC BRAKE lights were all on. If i switched the car off and on all the lights went off and i could drive again for a while. It seemed like it only happened when the car got hot.

I read that it could be a battery issue so i went ahead and changed the battery even though my existing battery tested fine.

Then i called Gert who said he can fix it, but the problem is that hes on the other side of the world. So i decided to try 1 more thing before packing some padkos and heading to Gert.

I ran a diagnostics using INPA and the car complained about IBS module error but my car doesnt have an IBS module. Then under the suspension menu, one of the modules complained about voltage > 18v. But i tested charging circuit and it was fine. So i decided to change the regulator...
Original Valeo regulator was R1300 from diesel electric but no stock so i had to settle for a pirate part from a auto electrician at R650. I put it in and problem was gone for good. So to make a long story short.....

A REGULATOR IS CAPABLE OF RANDOMLY THROWING OUT VOLTAGE SPIKES.

I always believed a regulator was either working or not but i got schooled. Hope this post helps others.

 

[MHuzaifa]

I Have the same issue my car is currently standing at home in the garage , on my way back from the show on saturday @mall of the south i had the abs failure, transmission failure and drivetrain malfunction on the idrive unit and the lights appeared all over the dashboard and advised to drive at a stable or moderate speed then the rev counter and speedometer dropped to zero and after a few jerks the car switched off everything locked and i was unable to move the car at all, i tried jumping the car it started i drove for around 2km and the car did the same thing and switched off tried jumping again and the car starts but the moment i remove the jumper cables the car switches off, i then got another battery just to get the car home the car started and i drove the car home, from what i know i have a 652 battery in the car when tested it was fine but it doesnt seem to work on the car anymore and another thing when jumping the car the cables spark which means there is a short in the car im clueless as to whats going on, any idea what could be the cause of this as im very lost as well, i was having an idea that something was going to go wrong because on a cold or hot start the car struggles alittle to start and the revs are always higher then usual that is on cold start its around 1300rmp and then after a while drops to normal which i would assume is 500-600rmp but on a hot start it starts at 800-900rmp and stays there for awhile before going down and even on a cold start after it drops to normal i switch off and start again and it goes up high again and i have to wait again till it comes back down to normal.

Any help and advise would be really appreciated ...

 

[Donovan2412]

I Have the same issue my car is currently standing at home in the garage , on my way back from the show on saturday @mall of the south i had the abs failure, transmission failure and drivetrain malfunction on the idrive unit and the lights appeared all over the dashboard and advised to drive at a stable or moderate speed then the rev counter and speedometer dropped to zero and after a few jerks the car switched off everything locked and i was unable to move the car at all, i tried jumping the car it started i drove for around 2km and the car did the same thing and switched off tried jumping again and the car starts but the moment i remove the jumper cables the car switches off, i then got another battery just to get the car home the car started and i drove the car home, from what i know i have a 652 battery in the car when tested it was fine but it doesnt seem to work on the car anymore and another thing when jumping the car the cables spark which means there is a short in the car im clueless as to whats going on, any idea what could be the cause of this as im very lost as well, i was having an idea that something was going to go wrong because on a cold or hot start the car struggles alittle to start and the revs are always higher then usual that is on cold start its around 1300rmp and then after a while drops to normal which i would assume is 500-600rmp but on a hot start it starts at 800-900rmp and stays there for awhile before going down and even on a cold start after it drops to normal i switch off and start again and it goes up high again and i have to wait again till it comes back down to normal.

Any help and advise would be really appreciated ...

How is your alternator doing?