335i Loss of Power - No Codes

[" N1KHAR-ZN "]

Is your GIAC "tune" a plug n play device? That could be causing the issue. I suggest removing it and going the MHD route. It is affordable and I would say a must for the modern N54 owner.

If you are unsure, SR SPEEDWORX deal with GIAC software. They will be able to help you out

Sent from my HUAWEI GRA-L09 using Tapatalk

 

[Cliver]

So a week has passed and I still have no solution. The Bosch workshop claim they searched meticulously for a boost leak but could not find any issues. They ran the car on a dyno and only get maximum of 80kW and 210Nm at wheels? They say there is absolutely no boost. They think the GIAC software is masking some fault codes and suggest that I ask BMW to reload stock software back into the car and they are sure it will start to give fault codes. The problem for me is that GIAC do not appear to exist anymore in RSA, so I have no means of reloading the software (R6k down the drain).
I did a test with my icarsoft code reader and monitored the Intake Manifold Pressure as reported on the OBD. Before the throttle valve it varies from about 0-50kpa (0.5bar) when I drive. After the throttle valve it stays at a pretty much constant value of 1.8bar (26psi) even at idle. In my understanding this would mean there is serious boost. But there is obviously none. So this implies a faulty intake manifold pressure sensor. However Bosch say that there might be some other issue in the engine which causes it to report a false pressure value so as to not damage the engine. I do not have enough knowledge to agree/disagree.

I would firstly try to perhaps load an MHD flash since you no longer have your stock file available and considering that a hardware issue cannot be found.

From a little "googling" I did it appears the MHD flash is not recommended with the GIAC flash still present. So I think the plan now would be to flash my car back to standard/stock at BMW (R1200), see what fault codes appear and hopefully find the hardware issue. I can then pursue the MHD route. Can you recommend a Supplier in the JHB/East Rand area for the required MHD cable?
Can anyone comment on the permanent 1.8 bar being reported for the intake manifold pressure after the throttle valve? Is the system reporting a false value, or should I try replacing the sensor (I have no idea of the cost but am sure it won't be less than R1k)

---

Take it to 357 on Rivonia. Sanjay will sort your problem out. Great workmanship from those guys :thumbs:

What is the name of the company?

---

[quote='"]
Is your GIAC "tune" a plug n play device? That could be causing the issue. I suggest removing it and going the MHD route. It is affordable and I would say a must for the modern N54 owner.

If you are unsure, SR SPEEDWORX deal with GIAC software. They will be able to help you out

Sent from my HUAWEI GRA-L09 using Tapatalk
[/quote]

GIAC was flashed via the OBD port. I contacted GIAC in the USA. SR SPEEDWORX appear to no longer be an approved dealer. They now have two local GIAC dealers: SP Tuning and Fastcar Performance (unfortunately both are in Natal).
Any recommendation who can set me up with the MHD cable etc in JHB/East Rand area?

 

[Rayzor]

Take it to 357 on Rivonia. Sanjay will sort your problem out. Great workmanship from those guys :thumbs:

What is the name of the company?

---

The company name is The 357
Address: 102, 100 12th Ave, Edenburg, Sandton, 2128
Phone: 082 908 3690
:thumbs:

 

[akash]

Perhaps rather then go with the OEM flash with BMW and then take it from there.

 

[boost3d]

I would purchase/get an Inpa/D-Kan cable , download the MHD app and purchase the flasher module. You will be able to backup your current file/software onto your phones memory card. Therafter, you can flash your car back to stock using MHD. I would recommend getting hold of a really good battery charger when backing up and flashing your car for the first time....

Since seeing you purchased the flasher module, you should be able to generate logs even with the stock software in place. I highly doubt that you are generating 26psi worth of boost, so that could indicate a problematic sensor.

This thread is very, very useful and i would go through it with a fine tooth comb regarding boost and vacuum leaks
http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13114

 

[Cliver]

I would purchase/get an Inpa/D-Kan cable , download the MHD app and purchase the flasher module. You will be able to backup your current file/software onto your phones memory card. Therafter, you can flash your car back to stock using MHD. I would recommend getting hold of a really good battery charger when backing up and flashing your car for the first time....

Since seeing you purchased the flasher module, you should be able to generate logs even with the stock software in place. I highly doubt that you are generating 26psi worth of boost, so that could indicate a problematic sensor.

This thread is very, very useful and i would go through it with a fine tooth comb regarding boost and vacuum leaks
http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13114

Thanks for the suggestions. One thing that worries me a bit is the following extract I found (also on N54tech): "If the car has been previously flashed (with say Dinan, GIAC, etc) you may run in to problems as these tuners delete the commands used to read out your BIN". If this is the case, will the backup just fail, or is there a chance I brick the ECU?
Will it be safer just to overwrite the GIAC flash with the MHD stock flash? It means losing the GIAC software, but I will still afterwards be able to flash the MHD stage 1?

 

[boost3d]

I only suggested backing up the giac software as you mentioned it was money down the drain...

Personally , i would use the MHD flashes going forward and disregard the giac stuff completely, for no other reason, then the lack of customer support etc etc


Will it be safer just to overwrite the GIAC flash with the MHD stock flash?

Yip, flashing back to stock means the car will revert back to the 'latest' stock software for your car , depending on your DME.

 

[Cliver]

I only suggested backing up the giac software as you mentioned it was money down the drain...

Personally , i would use the MHD flashes going forward and disregard the giac stuff completely, for no other reason, then the lack of customer support etc etc


Will it be safer just to overwrite the GIAC flash with the MHD stock flash?

Yip, flashing back to stock means the car will revert back to the 'latest' stock software for your car , depending on your DME.

Is this the right cable: https://www.gumtree.co.za/a-car-acc...-tool-with-a-switch/1002231510080911344433709
(I did see cheaper, but at least this is close to where I stay)
Sorry for all the questions!

 

[boost3d]

I only suggested backing up the giac software as you mentioned it was money down the drain...

Personally , i would use the MHD flashes going forward and disregard the giac stuff completely, for no other reason, then the lack of customer support etc etc


Will it be safer just to overwrite the GIAC flash with the MHD stock flash?

Yip, flashing back to stock means the car will revert back to the 'latest' stock software for your car , depending on your DME.

Is this the right cable: https://www.gumtree.co.za/a-car-acc...-tool-with-a-switch/1002231510080911344433709
(I did see cheaper, but at least this is close to where I stay)
Sorry for all the questions!

Get the cable from @Firi@Rennzport .....he tests them out before he sells them, those inpa cables are fickle, you will also need an Android based phone with an OTG adaptor

 

[akash]

I only suggested backing up the giac software as you mentioned it was money down the drain...

Personally , i would use the MHD flashes going forward and disregard the giac stuff completely, for no other reason, then the lack of customer support etc etc


Will it be safer just to overwrite the GIAC flash with the MHD stock flash?

Yip, flashing back to stock means the car will revert back to the 'latest' stock software for your car , depending on your DME.

Is this the right cable: https://www.gumtree.co.za/a-car-acc...-tool-with-a-switch/1002231510080911344433709
(I did see cheaper, but at least this is close to where I stay)
Sorry for all the questions!

Contact NAS325ci he also has the cables i bought mine from him for R550 works everytime

 

[///Avi]

I only suggested backing up the giac software as you mentioned it was money down the drain...

Personally , i would use the MHD flashes going forward and disregard the giac stuff completely, for no other reason, then the lack of customer support etc etc


Will it be safer just to overwrite the GIAC flash with the MHD stock flash?

Yip, flashing back to stock means the car will revert back to the 'latest' stock software for your car , depending on your DME.

Is this the right cable: https://www.gumtree.co.za/a-car-acc...-tool-with-a-switch/1002231510080911344433709
(I did see cheaper, but at least this is close to where I stay)
Sorry for all the questions!

@nas325ci will sort you out with the cable. Send him a PM.

 

[Twinz]

As suggested by others:thumbs:

My comment:
1. Get a good OBD cable from Firi...his got stock.
2. You must have a reliable battery charger to do the following...after you have purchased the MHD licence
* With ignition on and battery charger connected Read the codes
* Then go to "Back up" software...then back up...if MHD rejects the back up then exit...unplug cable and start the car...if starting then proceed.
* Connect cable again..turn on ignition (not starting car)...then choose "flash back to stock". If MHD still rejects it then you have to go to a Giac installer to have the Giac tune removed.
* If its working then complete the stock flash write...when done take the car for a drive to make sure all is good.
* If sorted then choose from the many stage 1 or stage 2 flashes.

3. In the meanwhile check the codes that MHD read and try resolve it, if its mechanical of nature...maybe its something small then you can fix it and continue to use Giac until you can remove it.

:thumbs:

I would purchase/get an Inpa/D-Kan cable , download the MHD app and purchase the flasher module. You will be able to backup your current file/software onto your phones memory card. Therafter, you can flash your car back to stock using MHD. I would recommend getting hold of a really good battery charger when backing up and flashing your car for the first time....

Since seeing you purchased the flasher module, you should be able to generate logs even with the stock software in place. I highly doubt that you are generating 26psi worth of boost, so that could indicate a problematic sensor.

This thread is very, very useful and i would go through it with a fine tooth comb regarding boost and vacuum leaks
http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13114

Thanks for the suggestions. One thing that worries me a bit is the following extract I found (also on N54tech): "If the car has been previously flashed (with say Dinan, GIAC, etc) you may run in to problems as these tuners delete the commands used to read out your BIN". If this is the case, will the backup just fail, or is there a chance I brick the ECU?
Will it be safer just to overwrite the GIAC flash with the MHD stock flash? It means losing the GIAC software, but I will still afterwards be able to flash the MHD stage 1?

 

[Cliver]

As suggested by others:thumbs:

My comment:
1. Get a good OBD cable from Firi...his got stock.
2. You must have a reliable battery charger to do the following...after you have purchased the MHD licence
* With ignition on and battery charger connected Read the codes
* Then go to "Back up" software...then back up...if MHD rejects the back up then exit...unplug cable and start the car...if starting then proceed.
* Connect cable again..turn on ignition (not starting car)...then choose "flash back to stock". If MHD still rejects it then you have to go to a Giac installer to have the Giac tune removed.
* If its working then complete the stock flash write...when done take the car for a drive to make sure all is good.
* If sorted then choose from the many stage 1 or stage 2 flashes.

3. In the meanwhile check the codes that MHD read and try resolve it, if its mechanical of nature...maybe its something small then you can fix it and continue to use Giac until you can remove it.

:thumbs:

Thanks. I should have a cable before the weekend and will try your suggestions

 

[Cliver]

Latest on this story:
Managed to buy the MHD modules on Google play after a bit of a struggle.
Tried to backup my GIAC flash. Got "read protected" message.
Flashed back to stock. All seems to have gone OK.
Car started. Went for a drive. Still no power. But at least this time got the half engine light at about 6000 rpm.
Read the codes: 30FF only. Insufficient charge pressure.
Disconnected one of the little hoses off the top of one of what I understand to be vacuum "accumulators". No sound of air being sucked in. Blew into the hose. Heard a hissing sound from somewhere. Traced it to rotten vacuum pipes connected to some or other valve sitting above the area of the alternator between the oil filter and air filter box. Checked the other vacuum pipes I could see from the top. Several are on the verge of failing.
So hopefully lack of vacuum is the cause (wastegates can't operate? ).
My back is a bit wrecked, so will have to try find some trustworthy place to replace all the hoses as access to some is not that easy. It is a bit unfortunate the really poor quality of these hoses installed by bmw.
Really appreciate all the input received on this forum.

 

[Shuaib1]

Glad to hear your software situation is sorted, once the vacuum lines are replaced I'm sure you will be boosting right :thumbs:

 

[BeemerFanatic]

At what age do theses pipes get old and brittle?

 

[FiRi@Rennzport]

You can contact a forum member here Afzil aka bybym3. He will definitely be able to assist with replacing the hoses and checking from there if anything is else is amiss.

You can PM me is want his cell number to WhatsApp him.

He helped a few guys here on the forum over the past few months.

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

 

[Cliver]

At what age do theses pipes get old and brittle?

I found this link which helped me as well to find the issue and general advice:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=546560
My main leak was in the exact area shown (red arrow).
Some owners seem to regard this almost as "routine maintenance" (every couple of years).
Mine is 2008 model, so it has lasted a while. On the other hand I only had a GIAC stage one flash (320whp at KAR), so maybe not generating as much heat as some more serious motors.

 

[Bimmerman335]

Hi all. My first post as long time "lurker" on this forum.
I would appreciate any suggestions:

I have a 2008 335i N54 with 83000 km. I live on the East Rand.
The car has suddenly lost about 30% power. I have the icarsoft i910 scanner/code reader and there are no fault codes. I took the car to a official BMW garage and they also say no errors could be detected (they basically suggest to carry on driving until something "really breaks" that is detectable).

I can best describe the performance is as if it feels like I am driving a perfectly functional normally aspirated 2 litre average car. It idles perfectly smooth, accelerates perfectly smooth. Just very little power. It feels as if the turbos are hardly working. It is as though some sensor somewhere has developed a problem which makes the ECU think all is perfectly normal and the turbos are giving enough boost. But they are clearly not.

I do have the GIAC stage 1 software installed (for several years)which allows me to select between "stock" and slightly higher "pump gas" programs. Whereas before the loss of power, there was about a 100nm and 60hp difference between the two programs, now I cannot feel any difference in power when switching between the two.

Any ideas would be appreciated. Or any suggestion of someone I could take it to on the East Rand.

Have you considered DTC? Perhaps traction control and stability control kicked in due to a sudden loss of traction causing the loss of power to the wheels. Seems simple but I've heard of this happening.

 

[Kish2604]

Hi all. My first post as long time "lurker" on this forum.
I would appreciate any suggestions:

I have a 2008 335i N54 with 83000 km. I live on the East Rand.
The car has suddenly lost about 30% power. I have the icarsoft i910 scanner/code reader and there are no fault codes. I took the car to a official BMW garage and they also say no errors could be detected (they basically suggest to carry on driving until something "really breaks" that is detectable).

I can best describe the performance is as if it feels like I am driving a perfectly functional normally aspirated 2 litre average car. It idles perfectly smooth, accelerates perfectly smooth. Just very little power. It feels as if the turbos are hardly working. It is as though some sensor somewhere has developed a problem which makes the ECU think all is perfectly normal and the turbos are giving enough boost. But they are clearly not.

I do have the GIAC stage 1 software installed (for several years)which allows me to select between "stock" and slightly higher "pump gas" programs. Whereas before the loss of power, there was about a 100nm and 60hp difference between the two programs, now I cannot feel any difference in power when switching between the two.

Any ideas would be appreciated. Or any suggestion of someone I could take it to on the East Rand.

Have you considered DTC? Perhaps traction control and stability control kicked in due to a sudden loss of traction causing the loss of power to the wheels. Seems simple but I've heard of this happening.

Have you noted the thread you just revived is from 2 years ago?

:fencelook: