335i HELP HELP HELP !!!!!!!!

Hi guys

Please can one of the tuners help me

Ive recently purchased the SYNAPSE BOV for my 335i and took it on a road test yesterday and afta boosting it seems like my wastegate is sticking open losing all boost and putting the car into limp mode. :argh:

Ive pulled out both TURBOS yesterday to see if it may not be the WASTGATES but ive checked they good

Have i set up the dump valve wrong ??? Ive connected both point A and B to a T to the manifold nipple

Is the DV causing this problem dumping too much air or could it be something els ???

Im lost :flyfun:

DSC00243.jpg
 

Twinz

Forum - Support
Staff member
You pulled the turbos...to check the wastegates....???? Damn, never heard of a trouble shooting, diagnostic process like that :nonono:

The answer is in red & blue...
 

LPM320

///Member
Quartermile: Wont your engine be constantly be sucking in hot air dur to the location of your filters? Not that im suggesting that this could be your problem, i was just wondering.....
 

P1000

///Member
LPM320 said:
Quartermile: Wont your engine be constantly be sucking in hot air dur to the location of your filters?

Without a doubt! I would seriously make a plan, you will see IAT before the turbos upwards of 50C...
 

moranor@axis

///Member
Official Advertiser
LPM320 said:
Quartermile: Wont your engine be constantly be sucking in hot air dur to the location of your filters? Not that im suggesting that this could be your problem, i was just wondering.....

on a boosted car the temp of the air going in makes no differance because when the air is compressed it will heat up anyway... thats what the intercooler is for...
 

P1000

///Member
moranor said:
on a boosted car the temp of the air going in makes no differance because when the air is compressed it will heat up anyway... thats what the intercooler is for...

You cannot be more wrong. Most of the heat increase is a thermodynamic effect of compressing the air - so if you start at a higher temp, you will proportionally increase the temperature after the turbo. Now, intercooler efficiency does go up with higher temperature differentials over ambient vs intake temperature, but it does not go up enough to cancel out the effect of higher input temps at all. Of course, you could compensate by fitting a bigger intercooler, but it would need to be quite a bit bigger. And if you could fit a bigger one, you can still gain be getting air from a cooler source - at relatively very low cost...
 
moranor said:
LPM320 said:
Quartermile: Wont your engine be constantly be sucking in hot air dur to the location of your filters? Not that im suggesting that this could be your problem, i was just wondering.....

on a boosted car the temp of the air going in makes no differance because when the air is compressed it will heat up anyway... thats what the intercooler is for...

+1 and the intercooler that ive fitted is more than big enoughi reckon


Twinz said:
You pulled the turbos...to check the wastegates....???? Damn, never heard of a trouble shooting, diagnostic process like that :nonono:

The answer is in red & blue...

Yea i put it on the PC and pulled up both wastegates and saw they run simultaniously then afta a couple of good revs and contant throttle i see that wasgate 1 being the front stays open at 30 %,,,,,,engine off and on it resets,,,,, so i had to pull the Turbos thought it might have been mechanical but oviously not asw theres no play on the actuator arms and the valves are working fine so im putting them back in now then will run a road test with original DV and see if that doesnt sorlve the prob then i know for sure its the SYNAPSE DV

But im also going to try fit the SYNASPE to only 1 port instead of two maybe its dumping to much as SYNAPSE designed it for this car so i dont know why its happening
 

AM Salie

New member
LPM320 said:
Quartermile: Wont your engine be constantly be sucking in hot air dur to the location of your filters? Not that im suggesting that this could be your problem, i was just wondering.....

Lots of threads on this, still inconclusive- I swap btw cones and stock depending on mood :)- think both has pros and cons.
 

moranor@axis

///Member
Official Advertiser
P1000 said:
moranor said:
on a boosted car the temp of the air going in makes no differance because when the air is compressed it will heat up anyway... thats what the intercooler is for...

You cannot be more wrong. Most of the heat increase is a thermodynamic effect of compressing the air - so if you start at a higher temp, you will proportionally increase the temperature after the turbo. Now, intercooler efficiency does go up with higher temperature differentials over ambient vs intake temperature, but it does not go up enough to cancel out the effect of higher input temps at all. Of course, you could compensate by fitting a bigger intercooler, but it would need to be quite a bit bigger. And if you could fit a bigger one, you can still gain be getting air from a cooler source - at relatively very low cost...

it would make a difference, but not nearly as much as on an NA car... it will optimize the system, but i dont think it will kill that car...

the most efficient system would have a Cai and feed the air from the BOV back over the filters (the de-pressurisation will make the air cold) this will have to be done so the pressure does not build up in the Cai...
 
Guys dont get me wrong im still building so i havnt finished yet there will be air flow from the front over the filters but im just at a wall now with this DV

:fencelook:
 

Twinz

Forum - Support
Staff member
Quartermile300 said:
I would start there too. If you are not running a tune then i would keep the stock DVs...they hold boost pretty well up to 15.5 psi after that, one needs to look at the forge type DVs. Consider the dual forge DVs; the BOVs are for the hondaboyz...:thumbs:
 
Twinz said:
Quartermile300 said:
I would start there too. If you are not running a tune then i would keep the stock DVs...they hold boost pretty well up to 15.5 psi after that, one needs to look at the forge type DVs. Consider the dual forge DVs; the BOVs are for the hondaboyz...:thumbs:

Thanks Twinz i will

Just dont understand it cause it is made especially for this car and also its recommended over other aftermarket ones,,,Think you right though with the forge diverter valves it was one of the options i was considering but went with the synapse :cry:

Well ive mailed the manufacturer so i suppose can only tell lata when the turbos are back in so lets see
 

George Smooth

///Member
It a simple step to see what is wrong. You waist gates work on vacuum. Fit a boost gauge and see where your vacuum is sitting once engine is warm whilst idling. If it does not go negative on idle it means you have a vacuum leak and the waist gates cannot function thus staying open and giving you a 30FF fault which is boost not reached. Instead of using a T on the two vacuum tubes u had rather use one tube and just block the other side. If this does not solve your problems start tracing the vacuum lines and checking for leaks. Cable tie works well on them as well but the OEM lines are also known to crack on the turbo side.
 
George Smooth said:
It a simple step to see what is wrong. You waist gates work on vacuum. Fit a boost gauge and see where your vacuum is sitting once engine is warm whilst idling. If it does not go negative on idle it means you have a vacuum leak and the waist gates cannot function thus staying open and giving you a 30FF fault which is boost not reached. Instead of using a T on the two vacuum tubes u had rather use one tube and just block the other side. If this does not solve your problems start tracing the vacuum lines and checking for leaks. Cable tie works well on them as well but the OEM lines are also known to crack on the turbo side.


Thanks a million will check on it today and report back ,,,,thanks everyone for you help much sppreciated

:ty:
 

netercol

New member
You cannot be more wrong. Most of the heat increase is a thermodynamic effect of compressing the air - so if you start at a higher temp, you will proportionally increase the temperature after the turbo. Now, intercooler efficiency does go up with higher temperature differentials over ambient vs intake temperature, but it does not go up enough to cancel out the effect of higher input temps at all. Of course, you could compensate by fitting a bigger intercooler, but it would need to be quite a bit bigger. And if you could fit a bigger one, you can still gain be getting air from a cooler source - at relatively very low cost...

what he said.. small thing to correct, with big benefit..
 
Turbos back in changed the DV back to Original Dirverter Valves and stil same problem ,,,Wastgate sticking open afta a few revs ,,,,,Followed all boost lines even put stock intercooler on didnt solve problem,,,now im confusted :argh:
 

George Smooth

///Member
Quartermile300 said:
Turbos back in changed the DV back to Original Dirverter Valves and stil same problem ,,,Wastgate sticking open afta a few revs ,,,,,Followed all boost lines even put stock intercooler on didnt solve problem,,,now im confusted :argh:

I am not sure what type of downpipes you are using but if the clamps are put on the wrong way the clamp gets into the way of the actuator. Make sure on the rear turbo the tightening part of the clamp gives the actuator clearance. Will keep scratching my head for other causes.

 
George Smooth said:
Quartermile300 said:
Turbos back in changed the DV back to Original Dirverter Valves and stil same problem ,,,Wastgate sticking open afta a few revs ,,,,,Followed all boost lines even put stock intercooler on didnt solve problem,,,now im confusted :argh:

I am not sure what type of downpipes you are using but if the clamps are put on the wrong way the clamp gets into the way of the actuator. Make sure on the rear turbo the tightening part of the clamp gives the actuator clearance. Will keep scratching my head for other causes.

Thanks George I will check,,, haven't changed the downpipes yet but have a mate at BMW so will send it in for them to check if I don't come right,,,,saw the downpipes u recommended on Jlevi.com they look awesome :thumbs:

I'm sending my car into TnT for its roll cage and exhaust system when I sort this problem out do u think they will be able to do thedownpipes or should I import???

Any other recommendations other than tnt that can do both cage and full exhaust????
:ty:
 

Twinz

Forum - Support
Staff member
Its coming along nicely. If tnt have not done DPs for the 335 before then best to import...:thumbs:
 

George Smooth

///Member
Quartermile300 said:
George Smooth said:
Quartermile300 said:
Turbos back in changed the DV back to Original Dirverter Valves and stil same problem ,,,Wastgate sticking open afta a few revs ,,,,,Followed all boost lines even put stock intercooler on didnt solve problem,,,now im confusted :argh:

I am not sure what type of downpipes you are using but if the clamps are put on the wrong way the clamp gets into the way of the actuator. Make sure on the rear turbo the tightening part of the clamp gives the actuator clearance. Will keep scratching my head for other causes.

Thanks George I will check,,, haven't changed the downpipes yet but have a mate at BMW so will send it in for them to check if I don't come right,,,,saw the downpipes u recommended on Jlevi.com they look awesome :thumbs:

I'm sending my car into TnT for its roll cage and exhaust system when I sort this problem out do u think they will be able to do thedownpipes or should I import???

Any other recommendations other than tnt that can do both cage and full exhaust????
:ty:

No offense to TNT but I have seen their downpipes. Rather import the AR units.
 
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