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Read the WELCOME ALL BMWFANATICS post.
330D DAMAGED MOTOR?
- Thread starter Nuts4wheels
- Start date
Nuts4wheels
New member
Thanks all you guys for your posts and advise :ty:. It seems as though the shaft must have been unbalanced, same diagnosis as previous turbo repair. The shaft was twisted clean off and bent. Could have been poor repair job or crappy aftermarket parts used :flyfun:.
In my humble opinion I think that this has all to do with overly aggressive software. When Tiaan downgraded my map last we noticed with the Software, the fuel rail pressure and turbo boost was way too high, which I think led to the turbo and injectors to fail.
Irrespective, one does not always know what you buy, even when you look under the hood. So I am going back to basics. I'm taking the time and spending the resources to make this engine good again.
I've removed the turbo, busy removing the head and want to assess the condition of the pistons and the head. I noticed a small crack on the front right corner of the head internally which is concerning me a bit. Will send to Engineering to check
While the car's nose is off :idea:, i'm also going to redo the power steering pump which is whiny when cold and the aircon (bearings?) which is whiny when engaged.
@ Gizmo - The drivetrain is going like a boeing :thumbs:. Need to replace the Guibo. Also need to sort the diff (shim?) got a bit of play on the crown and pinion.
Hopefully I can get things sorted soon, I can't stand the car being like this.
As I go along I will post some pics. Have an awesome weekend Dudes!!!
In my humble opinion I think that this has all to do with overly aggressive software. When Tiaan downgraded my map last we noticed with the Software, the fuel rail pressure and turbo boost was way too high, which I think led to the turbo and injectors to fail.
Irrespective, one does not always know what you buy, even when you look under the hood. So I am going back to basics. I'm taking the time and spending the resources to make this engine good again.
I've removed the turbo, busy removing the head and want to assess the condition of the pistons and the head. I noticed a small crack on the front right corner of the head internally which is concerning me a bit. Will send to Engineering to check
While the car's nose is off :idea:, i'm also going to redo the power steering pump which is whiny when cold and the aircon (bearings?) which is whiny when engaged.
@ Gizmo - The drivetrain is going like a boeing :thumbs:. Need to replace the Guibo. Also need to sort the diff (shim?) got a bit of play on the crown and pinion.
Hopefully I can get things sorted soon, I can't stand the car being like this.
As I go along I will post some pics. Have an awesome weekend Dudes!!!
Andy1GP
///Member
Eish vinnie, I see Psymon69 is also deregistered from the forum. Can't find his for sale threads. I'm trying to look through Osiris's old threads to try find pics of the original turbo he bought. It seemed to be a legit one. So someone screwed him over when they installed it. Which is the trouble you're sitting with now.
Nuts4wheels
New member
Soooooh, the latest is I got the head off, having to strip most of the engine. shooh lotta stripping!. Head still looking good.
Pistons still looking good, except for one i'm not too sure of, never gave me problems, but might be dodgy down the line tell me what u think. (left hand piston in pic)
All the pistons have a sharp edge on the corner, one is curved around the edges towards the rings. Don't reaaaally want to take out the subassembly but if you guys think its a risk then let me know.
Then have a look at the manifold. Not happy with those 2 holes on the sides, and the welding looks shoddy. To think that six ports have to feed that small outlet, sounds very inefficient to me.
So that you know, this is my weekend car, so my objective is really to improve the performance of the vehicle, while at the same time optimising the flow of gases and also install protective mechanisms which will protect the motor as far as possible considering the increase in performance.
I had some daft ideas about rebuilding the manifold with a larger outlet and repositioning the turbo to take a larger turbo, but I canned that idea, because the space looks incredibly limited. steering column and engine mount has stuffed my plans
Anyways, i'm planning on doing the following presuming I don't have
to also replace the piston:
1. stainless weld up manifold outlet port and clean up the welding to maximise the flow area.
2. send head to engineering to clean up (polish valves) and check clearances allround, and replace valve stem seals while i'm at it. Larger valves?
3. replace/ repair turbo. would really like to get an uprated turbo (preferably turbonetics performance). any advise? doesn't look like the garrett can handle the punch once the software was upgraded. Osiris has the turbo replaced on roughly 180k km and my car is now on about 195k km. will make contact with Netercol and get his input.
4. Install manual Boost controller and add Adjustable Dump Valve to manifold.
5. Larger Intercooler
6. Redo Software
Injectors have already been done.
Additional work to car:
1. Service noisy Aircon Pump (whiny)
2. Service noisy Power steering Pump (whiny)
3. replace rear bearing on gearbox (whiny at times)
4. replace Guibo (shuddering)
5. Tighten Rear Diff play
6. Respray Front bumper (stone chips)
7. Replace Fog lights (one was missing when I bought the car)(already bought)
8. Repair Angel eyes setup (wiring was done like a dogs backside) (already bought)
9. Widen rear rim dishes to 265mm and spray rims to Gloss Black. Replace rear tyres.
Eish i'm tired just typing all of this!!
Pistons still looking good, except for one i'm not too sure of, never gave me problems, but might be dodgy down the line tell me what u think. (left hand piston in pic)
All the pistons have a sharp edge on the corner, one is curved around the edges towards the rings. Don't reaaaally want to take out the subassembly but if you guys think its a risk then let me know.
Then have a look at the manifold. Not happy with those 2 holes on the sides, and the welding looks shoddy. To think that six ports have to feed that small outlet, sounds very inefficient to me.
So that you know, this is my weekend car, so my objective is really to improve the performance of the vehicle, while at the same time optimising the flow of gases and also install protective mechanisms which will protect the motor as far as possible considering the increase in performance.
I had some daft ideas about rebuilding the manifold with a larger outlet and repositioning the turbo to take a larger turbo, but I canned that idea, because the space looks incredibly limited. steering column and engine mount has stuffed my plans
Anyways, i'm planning on doing the following presuming I don't have
to also replace the piston:
1. stainless weld up manifold outlet port and clean up the welding to maximise the flow area.
2. send head to engineering to clean up (polish valves) and check clearances allround, and replace valve stem seals while i'm at it. Larger valves?
3. replace/ repair turbo. would really like to get an uprated turbo (preferably turbonetics performance). any advise? doesn't look like the garrett can handle the punch once the software was upgraded. Osiris has the turbo replaced on roughly 180k km and my car is now on about 195k km. will make contact with Netercol and get his input.
4. Install manual Boost controller and add Adjustable Dump Valve to manifold.
5. Larger Intercooler
6. Redo Software
Injectors have already been done.
Additional work to car:
1. Service noisy Aircon Pump (whiny)
2. Service noisy Power steering Pump (whiny)
3. replace rear bearing on gearbox (whiny at times)
4. replace Guibo (shuddering)
5. Tighten Rear Diff play
6. Respray Front bumper (stone chips)
7. Replace Fog lights (one was missing when I bought the car)(already bought)
8. Repair Angel eyes setup (wiring was done like a dogs backside) (already bought)
9. Widen rear rim dishes to 265mm and spray rims to Gloss Black. Replace rear tyres.
Eish i'm tired just typing all of this!!
netercol
New member
cool, big job you have taken on there..
pistons look fine to me, left one looks like it might have made contact with a piece of turbo somewhere along the line, but nothing i would worry about. and dont bother with larger valves, simply wont do anything..or make for worse performance.. forget your petrol turbo knowledge
diesel head,piston flow design all about proper swirl and velocities..
as for the stainless exhaust manifold, its a two piece design, with a inner and outer casing, if you examine it carefully you will see that the outer casing provides the seal and the inner casings guides the gasses in such a way that the manifold has seperate runners for each piston. so the two holes you see at the outlet makes no difference because the the two parts do not seal between each other.. as for the size of the outlet, DONT change the size! its sized to keep gas velocity up to complement the turbo.. changing too much here WILL induce lag.. i learnt this the hard way many years ago on a 320d.. i opened up the outlet to match the turbo, thinking that it should be the same as a petrol turbo setup. it induced so much lag that i had to source a replacement manifold to fix the unbearable lag..
futher regarding the exhaust manifold, if you are not going back to bone stock, start looking for the previous model's cast iron manifold. the 150kw model was the only one cursed with a stainless manifold, which was a elegant solution, but not up to the heatload, especially at egt's anywhere above stock.
regarding turbo.. if you dont plan on finding the absolute power limits of this engine, dont bother with anything else than the stock turbo.. it can flow a hell of a lot more than you think, and can deliver around 34psi safely.. the limiting factor of this turbo is the turbine side, and there is very very little available to upgrade the turbine side. i have tried upgrading the compressor side on my car, and ended up with surge (engine simply cannot swallow the air, because it cannot get it out the exhaust)
remember what bmw did for the first gen 535d, which is the same engine with bigger injectors.. they used a compound turbo setup, with a small turbo and a big turbo, so that there was minimum lag, but enough flow in the upper range.
manual boost controller will mess you around because the ecu requests boost exactly where it wants it by using the vnt mechanism. for the same reason a dumpvalve is pointless because there is no throttlevalve to cause reversal of flow, and the vnt controls boost instantly.
larger intercooler will help with heatsoak, think you will only really notice a difference in power if you push the absolute limits..
you can remove the catalysts, this will reduce the heatload on your new turbo and will help it live longer.. lastly i would sugest a genuine garrett replacement turbo.. if you cant afford a new one (11k) try to find a good second hand one.. the aftermarket cores simply do not last as long as genuine.. and remember garrett DO NOT make the internals of these turbos available for sale, so dont let anybody tell you otherwise..
remember when you fit the new turbo to clean the intercooler, pipes, inletmanifold to find all the pieces of the prievious turbo.. seen a lot of turbos destroyed when a piece of the old goes through the new turbine..
hope this helps
pistons look fine to me, left one looks like it might have made contact with a piece of turbo somewhere along the line, but nothing i would worry about. and dont bother with larger valves, simply wont do anything..or make for worse performance.. forget your petrol turbo knowledge
diesel head,piston flow design all about proper swirl and velocities..as for the stainless exhaust manifold, its a two piece design, with a inner and outer casing, if you examine it carefully you will see that the outer casing provides the seal and the inner casings guides the gasses in such a way that the manifold has seperate runners for each piston. so the two holes you see at the outlet makes no difference because the the two parts do not seal between each other.. as for the size of the outlet, DONT change the size! its sized to keep gas velocity up to complement the turbo.. changing too much here WILL induce lag.. i learnt this the hard way many years ago on a 320d.. i opened up the outlet to match the turbo, thinking that it should be the same as a petrol turbo setup. it induced so much lag that i had to source a replacement manifold to fix the unbearable lag..
futher regarding the exhaust manifold, if you are not going back to bone stock, start looking for the previous model's cast iron manifold. the 150kw model was the only one cursed with a stainless manifold, which was a elegant solution, but not up to the heatload, especially at egt's anywhere above stock.
regarding turbo.. if you dont plan on finding the absolute power limits of this engine, dont bother with anything else than the stock turbo.. it can flow a hell of a lot more than you think, and can deliver around 34psi safely.. the limiting factor of this turbo is the turbine side, and there is very very little available to upgrade the turbine side. i have tried upgrading the compressor side on my car, and ended up with surge (engine simply cannot swallow the air, because it cannot get it out the exhaust)
remember what bmw did for the first gen 535d, which is the same engine with bigger injectors.. they used a compound turbo setup, with a small turbo and a big turbo, so that there was minimum lag, but enough flow in the upper range.
manual boost controller will mess you around because the ecu requests boost exactly where it wants it by using the vnt mechanism. for the same reason a dumpvalve is pointless because there is no throttlevalve to cause reversal of flow, and the vnt controls boost instantly.
larger intercooler will help with heatsoak, think you will only really notice a difference in power if you push the absolute limits..
you can remove the catalysts, this will reduce the heatload on your new turbo and will help it live longer.. lastly i would sugest a genuine garrett replacement turbo.. if you cant afford a new one (11k) try to find a good second hand one.. the aftermarket cores simply do not last as long as genuine.. and remember garrett DO NOT make the internals of these turbos available for sale, so dont let anybody tell you otherwise..
remember when you fit the new turbo to clean the intercooler, pipes, inletmanifold to find all the pieces of the prievious turbo.. seen a lot of turbos destroyed when a piece of the old goes through the new turbine..
hope this helps
Nuts4wheels
New member
Hey Nico. Thanks for the advise. Sounds very logical the way you explained it. Probably going to save me a lot of headaches and money down the line. Andy gave me your nr yesterday. Id like to know a bit more about the turbo options, but will give you a call in the week if you dont mind. The previous owner had an excede map loaded which registered 226 hp on the dyno, which is well above the benchmark of normal 330d's. Im assuming one of three things which caused the turbo to selfdestruct. 1. They didnt cleanup properly with the previous turbo repair, 2. They installed crappy aftermarket parts and labour, 3. The aggressive software destroyed the turbo, or all of the above.
Just got one wish.... wanna kick the e90's 330d's backside. :rollsmile:
Just got one wish.... wanna kick the e90's 330d's backside. :rollsmile:
RAArmstrong
///Member
Gizmo said:
Interesting...
netercol
New member
glad if i could help a bit, give me a call or drop in at my place for a chat if you want.. assuming you are around the centurion area..
regarding the 226hp, is that on the wheels? remapped 150kw version should give about 260hp at the flywheel..
@gizmo, thanx bud, that is a good tip..
regarding the 226hp, is that on the wheels? remapped 150kw version should give about 260hp at the flywheel..
@gizmo, thanx bud, that is a good tip..
Nuts4wheels
New member
Ok.....Now i'm officially the moer in :argh:. My car was patched up before and what a shit job. Not expecting this from a fanatic car. From the afrikaans saying: Hierdie kar is deur sy hol getrek!!
When i was stripping the motor i suspected from the tension of the bolts, that the engine had been tampered with.
Anyway, bottom line, i am forced to do the following:
1. Strip Motor completely - Done
2. Rebore Block to 10thou (or resleeve) - Serious uneven ridging on Sleeves
3. Install KolbenSchmidt Pistons, Bigends, SmallEnds - Scoring Marks on
Pistons
4. Install New Thrust Bearing - Never seen one in such a bad condition.
5. Reassemble Sub-Assembly
6. Reinstall Sub-assembly
7. Service Cylinder Head - New Valve Stem Seals, Valves check, Clearances Check, Clean Head - Done
8. Reinstall Head
9. Source new Turbo - Original Garrett OEM - Done
10. Install Turbo
11. Reassemble all engine accessories, cabling and piping
Amongst the the other things i still have to do on the car, i'm going to be sitting with a hefty bill of around R40k and thats doing everything myself. At least the car will be as good as new then, but by then i couldve probably already had an E90.
Pro's, please advise which pistons you wouldve gone for. The KS's are around R5400 for the Six. i would prefer OEM's but don't think theyre gonna come cheap.
When i was stripping the motor i suspected from the tension of the bolts, that the engine had been tampered with.
Anyway, bottom line, i am forced to do the following:
1. Strip Motor completely - Done
2. Rebore Block to 10thou (or resleeve) - Serious uneven ridging on Sleeves
3. Install KolbenSchmidt Pistons, Bigends, SmallEnds - Scoring Marks on
Pistons
4. Install New Thrust Bearing - Never seen one in such a bad condition.
5. Reassemble Sub-Assembly
6. Reinstall Sub-assembly
7. Service Cylinder Head - New Valve Stem Seals, Valves check, Clearances Check, Clean Head - Done
8. Reinstall Head
9. Source new Turbo - Original Garrett OEM - Done
10. Install Turbo
11. Reassemble all engine accessories, cabling and piping
Amongst the the other things i still have to do on the car, i'm going to be sitting with a hefty bill of around R40k and thats doing everything myself. At least the car will be as good as new then, but by then i couldve probably already had an E90.
Pro's, please advise which pistons you wouldve gone for. The KS's are around R5400 for the Six. i would prefer OEM's but don't think theyre gonna come cheap.
RAArmstrong
///Member
Shit dude that sucks
NEVER would have expected this from a fanatics car :fencelook:
NEVER would have expected this from a fanatics car :fencelook:
Nuts4wheels
New member
RAArmstrong said:Shit dude that sucks
NEVER would have expected this from a fanatics car :fencelook:
2nd hand parts were used with engravings on them, such as the thrust bearing...... and the deeper i'm digging, the more kak i'm finding to sort out!!!
ChefDJ
///Member
Sorry to hear of the misfortune.
Let's not drill the previous owner, as he may not have known himself. Perhaps ask him what all he had done on the car, and who performed the work? Shoddy work like that should be enough cause to shut down a business as they are putting "unroadworthy" vehicles back on the road...
Let's not drill the previous owner, as he may not have known himself. Perhaps ask him what all he had done on the car, and who performed the work? Shoddy work like that should be enough cause to shut down a business as they are putting "unroadworthy" vehicles back on the road...
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