edmundp said:
Agreed. Hold back on replacing the Lambda until you get the temp sorted out.
I must be honest - I do not have much knowledge on the actual electronics of the thermostat.
But if you can as a clean job replace the therm with a manual M43 thermostat go for and see what happens - manual thermostats are dirt cheap in any way.
Does the fan actually go on on 70 to 75 degrees? It's not supposed to. If it does your temp sensor might also be funny (normally on the lower radiator hose.)
I believe adaptations helps the car run better, but is not really supposed to make it run crap if cleared. I think it runs crap after clearing due to the above problem as it confuses the EM by running on default values.
Hello Edmundp, I got so fed up with this car this morning, I dicided to take it too a very good vriend of mine to and try and diagnose this issue. (This morning it simply wouldn't idle at all, and when I tried to drive it, it wouldn't even reach 10kmh - 'People in there car's behind me WAS NOT happy with me holding up the traffic- After about 10min of driving the car heated up and started to perform again'
My vriend connected his fancy dealer diagnostic machine to the car and found a problem with the ECU'c coolant temperature sensor reading, Accourding to the reading the car's coolant was -31 degrees celsius. (I defnitly didn't blame the car for running like shit after seeing that reading) - Only at about 8Min of idling the readings climed to about 75 degrees.
He also found the LAMBDA sensor code and gave me advice to remove the sensor from the exhaust and clean it with caberator cleaner, then reinstall it back. (Aparently this works 9 out of 10 times)
He then tried to restore factory setting for the car, But after about 10min idling the FAN switched ON and pushed coolant temperature down to under 70 degrees celsius again. The only way he could continue with restore was to unplug the electronic fan - car started to heat up then only and he could continue.
We talked and I told him that I think the reason the car's ECU thinks the coolant's temp is -30 degrees, is because the OPEN thermostat circulates the coolant thru the radiator contantly and the FAN cools the coolant faster than engine can heat it UP. If I actually drive OPEN Road, the temp needle actually drops to the end of the BLUE ZONE.
After I was done by him the car did feel better, BUT decided to go to GOLDWAGON and buy a new mechanical thermostat. The guy that helped me didn't know what I was talking about and after about 3 electronic sh...t thermostats later he bought me the thermostat I wanted (From E36 316i M43 engine), I paid R385 for the thermostat with housing. When I got home, I installed the new housing and thermostat complete, But had to modify the lower radiator hose because the E36 version is NOT clip in and is about 4CM longer then the electronic version. (Crushed clip in connector and removed plastic peaces, fold rubber hose inwards and remove steel fastner band & fit over E36 housing with new clamp)
I took car for a drive and car started to perform better and better as I drove and the heat gauge now sits smack in the middle where it should!!!
If there is anyone out there that also have issues with there electronic thermostat, I would really recommend this UPGRADE.
I will keep u guys posted on how car responds tomorrow morning on cold start.
