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Read the WELCOME ALL BMWFANATICS post.
135i rotten luck
- Thread starter japfighter
- Start date
BadBoy23
New member
this is hectic dude, this is something that we all dread when we buy a car.
I bought a 2013 118 msport and when driving back home I picked up a transmission failure warning, took car back and a sensor was replaced, never had a issue since I traded it in. made sure dealer gave me extended warranty in case this problem persisted
My suggestion is that you request for a warranty from the dealership and also request for car to be checked by BMW at the cost of dealer and a comprehensive report be done to ensure your peace of mind
I bought a 2013 118 msport and when driving back home I picked up a transmission failure warning, took car back and a sensor was replaced, never had a issue since I traded it in. made sure dealer gave me extended warranty in case this problem persisted
My suggestion is that you request for a warranty from the dealership and also request for car to be checked by BMW at the cost of dealer and a comprehensive report be done to ensure your peace of mind
japfighter
Member
quick update dealer came back and is avoiding talking about refund.
instead asked me to take the car to a BMW Dealership/BMW approved workshop and they will fit the bill.
i have also asked for a reduction in price should the problem be sorted and we decide to keep the car.
instead asked me to take the car to a BMW Dealership/BMW approved workshop and they will fit the bill.
i have also asked for a reduction in price should the problem be sorted and we decide to keep the car.
osiris
///Member
I have been through this before and another forum member who bought a car from the same dealership a week before me went through the same thing, we both tried to fight it, this was due to our turbos failing a week after purchase.
We didn't even get the luxury of the dealership paying to fix the problem or a refund or anything. When we threatened CPA they said stand in line.
Hope you come right. If the block got damaged it will cause issues with head gaskets and all sorts of stuff down the line due to pressures sitting outside of spec ranges. If you take it do BMW just ask them to do a compression test and also get them to check if exhaust gases are mixing with the coolant, they run a special test with a blue fluid. If it turns yellow then its either a damaged head gasket or damaged head or both.
This Could also be as simple as a bust O-ring from the pipe that connects to the expansion tank.
We didn't even get the luxury of the dealership paying to fix the problem or a refund or anything. When we threatened CPA they said stand in line.
Hope you come right. If the block got damaged it will cause issues with head gaskets and all sorts of stuff down the line due to pressures sitting outside of spec ranges. If you take it do BMW just ask them to do a compression test and also get them to check if exhaust gases are mixing with the coolant, they run a special test with a blue fluid. If it turns yellow then its either a damaged head gasket or damaged head or both.
This Could also be as simple as a bust O-ring from the pipe that connects to the expansion tank.
Run Forest run, I had a 135 for 5 years, never gave a days trouble, I had a friends brother nag me to buy it, eventually sold it, and he has had endless issues, think he modded it, most of the x35’s out there have been modded and then traded in minus mods, and the next buyer picks up all the issues, you never had the car long, walk away, buy something else
japfighter
Member
another update
dealer offered a refund yesterday.
today i get a email
saying they will repair the vehicle at a bmw dealership and cover all the costs.
they will also give a reduction in price.
geez what do i do know
dealer offered a refund yesterday.
today i get a email
saying they will repair the vehicle at a bmw dealership and cover all the costs.
they will also give a reduction in price.
geez what do i do know
FerdiBotha
Well-known member
japfighter said:
I’d take the refund for sure.
japfighter
Member
they are making it very hard to walk away :-(
supertramp
Active member
Take the refund and run ............. if it was offered yesterday they cannot retract so long as you had this in an e-mail, also remember they must include all the costs you incurred in the purchase transaction "on the road costs" etc etc .....
FerdiBotha
Well-known member
japfighter said:
The thing is you don’t know what the extent of the damage is or what other issues could be hiding in that motor.
While 135is with low mileage, in clean condition etc. are becoming more difficult to find, they’re still not scarce.
The fact that you bought from a dealership means you probably didn’t pay a ridiculously good price for the car either (otherwise it wouldn’t make business sense to them), so chances of you finding another car in a similar condition within that budget is entirely possible.
japfighter
Member
Refund is the general consensus :-( sad but i guess its the best way out will give it more thought and make the decisions then
thanks for all the advice guys.
:ty:
thanks for all the advice guys.
:ty:
osiris
///Member
I know what its like to not want to give a car up. I am very attached to my Z4 and its put to hell and back several times but I stuck it out and now I have a car that I am in love with.
So what I am trying to say is that if you really want to keep the car then there are two things you need to do.
A: get a test done where they test if exhaust gases are going into your coolant. I forget what the test is called but basically they screw a tester to your expansion tank with a blue fluid reservoir. They start the car and let it run, if the fluid turns yellow you get rid of the car.
B: you get a compression test done, if the cylinders are all reading incorrectly against spec then get rid of the car.
That's my thoughts on the matter, take it or leave it. Both tests are VERY cheap! some places do the exhaust gas in coolant test for free even.
So what I am trying to say is that if you really want to keep the car then there are two things you need to do.
A: get a test done where they test if exhaust gases are going into your coolant. I forget what the test is called but basically they screw a tester to your expansion tank with a blue fluid reservoir. They start the car and let it run, if the fluid turns yellow you get rid of the car.
B: you get a compression test done, if the cylinders are all reading incorrectly against spec then get rid of the car.
That's my thoughts on the matter, take it or leave it. Both tests are VERY cheap! some places do the exhaust gas in coolant test for free even.
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