Track 330i build

Andrewe90

Member
On this project for the last year.
Taken longer than expected but work takes precedence.

The idea behind the project was to build an endurance track car with stock drivetrain, no engine mods. Decided to go with bigger front brakes due to the safety aspect. Other than Bilstein suspension the car is standard. It even runs the standard management and systems.

The point of the car is to encourage others to do the same at a reasonable budget, organise a team of drivers and off we go. Will post some pics below of the progress.
 

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Andrewe90

Member
Roll cage
 

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Andrewe90

Member
Next
 

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Andrewe90

Member
Will post more as I go on from here but the spec is as follows:

Engine (standard) n52b30
-changed sump, valve cover gaskets
-new coils and plugs
-filter, oil.
-ran a compression test and the engine looks good
-tensioner pully and Alternator pulley replaced

Cooling system
-removed the ac with all piping
-managed to eventually find the Correct belt length minus the ac pully
-New oem radiator
-replaced water pump and thermostat.

Electrical (mission)
-as I wanted to run the stock ecu and systems I had to plug all the wiring back in place and then through a process of elimination and with the help of a diagnostic machine managed to remove a lot.
-fitted a few auxiliary gauges for oil and water temp as well as oil pressure

Suspension
-Bilstein B16 PSS10

Brakes
Front: vari disks and calipers, endurance pads
Rear: std disk with endurance pads.
Braided hoses

Wheels (hens teeth)
Square 18inch 8.5j (216)

Rollcage
-chromoly

Polycarb windows and rear windscreen.
Removed as much weight as possible without hacking it.

Still to do:
Exhaust
Cable sleeving
Safety equipment
Some front aero
Test.
Ride height
Wheel alignment.

But the list never ends........
 
Last edited:

momo1

Well-known member
great work, only advice i can give is consider changing water pump and thermostat, oem waterpump is a Pierburg and can be bought from autozone,
 

Benji

Well-known member
Wow this is great, thank you for sharing. Some serious hard work gone unto this with predictably epic results. In my opinion, any "aero" work on these cars is mostly for cooling and/or looks. You will never get to speeds high enough to make any sort of meaningful downforce. You would also need to empirically test your aero mods to make sure you are actually making things better for the work/weight added.
 

Andrewe90

Member
Wow this is great, thank you for sharing. Some serious hard work gone unto this with predictably epic results. In my opinion, any "aero" work on these cars is mostly for cooling and/or looks. You will never get to speeds high enough to make any sort of meaningful downforce. You would also need to empirically test your aero mods to make sure you are actually making things better for the work/weight added.
Thanks for the response. My thought behind the "air dam" was mostly to create a more streamlined effect to punch through the air more effectively. Seems that area where the brake ducts and fog lights sit would create a lot of drag. The splitter is mainly for support of the air dam so it doesn't flex under force. The under tray of the car will use the standard covers so I agree the downforce created will be negligible. Thanks for the info. Appreciated. Aiming to make it in one piece so it can be removed in order to test without it as well. Will give feedback.
 

Benji

Well-known member
Thanks for the response. My thought behind the "air dam" was mostly to create a more streamlined effect to punch through the air more effectively. Seems that area where the brake ducts and fog lights sit would create a lot of drag. The splitter is mainly for support of the air dam so it doesn't flex under force. The under tray of the car will use the standard covers so I agree the downforce created will be negligible. Thanks for the info. Appreciated. Aiming to make it in one piece so it can be removed in order to test without it as well. Will give feedback.
In theory, the smaller frontal area without the splitter would contribute to lower drag, you could then focus your efforts on reducing the drag coefficient by blanking off the side grilles after having routed your brake cooling pipes if these are required. Again, we are talking marginal percentages here and normally what would be done when you are chasing that last tenth of lap time...

I recently saw a heavily modified E36 on track with a very serious looking diffuser and wing. There was a tow strap hanging from the diffusor and I paid special attention to the tow strap down the straights, it was literally flapping around in very turbulent air - ie. the diffusor was doing nothing. The airflow in the diffusor needs to remain attached (laminar and non-turbulent) if it is to do anything useful.

Little bits of wool tuft stuck on your body work can go a long way towards showing you what the air is doing around the car
 
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