The story is about. Bought e46 320Cd 2004.in, with mileage 247 000km.
The car almost did not smoke, was riding well (but with strong heating oil, apparently lost compression and rode worse and some noisier) got more or less normal, in the morning when it was cold (+5), had to twist 2-4S.
Then when it became colder outside, became worse and worse to start.
-5 twisted 4-5 seconds
-10 twisted two times in 5 seconds
-20 below and dancing with a tambourine
Finally bought a preheater "Webasto", put 5 hours. And was able without any problems in any frost to start the engine, and with sex trafficking in summer. But when a short trip and a day for 6-8 launches binary. Began to plant battery. In principle, nothing critical I thought. Skated the winter, then summer came. In the summer with no problems driveways. The machine itself is surprisingly almost no oil ate. But when I bought it, the tray was cracked and smeared with sealant. When I changed the oil, had to knock down this sealant and re-repaired qualitatively I couldn't. In the end, always leaking. Pluck all summer from the active drive, crankcase gases after playing through CPG squeezed all the gaskets. The entire engine in oil. 1000 left 1.5 l of oil. Gases pressed even through kwkg (valve ventilation of crankcase gases) and correspondingly the butter, too. Around kwkg all in oil. When cold weather comes, it's back these starting problems with oil consumption. And I gave up. Decided to do kapitalku engine.
A compression test:
Cilindr - 22,5
Cilindr - 30
Cilindr - 25
Cilindr - 15
The nozzle swaying left, right, extension hex head, came easily.
Removing the valve cover, I was shocked. Although it should be clear. The previous owner went with not a working thermostat and probably not changed particularly oil, though, and pouring Castrol.
Cracked the sump. The previous owner pulled the bolts from the soul or rather in the service he got sucked. On the pallet the automatic transmission is also disrupted the 2 bolts
Visible wear of the cylinder, direct visible step, the working surface and at the top is not working.
Ordered the strip with 1 hole (1-LOCH), 1st repair size. Because he was convinced that the engine was never moved. But then I learned that the plant may go strip 2-LOCH and even 3-LOCH, had to order 2-LOCH as it was. But not yet ordered. I want to measure the height of the output piston and determine exactly what the gasket set.
The cylinder block gilsoul specialists in
a little washed details.
The crankshaft that would order new bearings, I measured rammer journals with a micrometer. All ideally.
Of yew dimensions:
Nominal, yellow 59,977-59,983 mm
Nominal, green 59,970-59,976 mm
Nominal, white 59,964-mm 59,969
Colors marked with paint on the crankshaft.
April 13 start the Assembly of the engine, even try to make a video report on kraynyak quality photo report, with good descriptions and quality photos
Total for kapitalku left at the moment 2000$
Sorry for my english
I'm from Russia.
The car almost did not smoke, was riding well (but with strong heating oil, apparently lost compression and rode worse and some noisier) got more or less normal, in the morning when it was cold (+5), had to twist 2-4S.
Then when it became colder outside, became worse and worse to start.
-5 twisted 4-5 seconds
-10 twisted two times in 5 seconds
-20 below and dancing with a tambourine
Finally bought a preheater "Webasto", put 5 hours. And was able without any problems in any frost to start the engine, and with sex trafficking in summer. But when a short trip and a day for 6-8 launches binary. Began to plant battery. In principle, nothing critical I thought. Skated the winter, then summer came. In the summer with no problems driveways. The machine itself is surprisingly almost no oil ate. But when I bought it, the tray was cracked and smeared with sealant. When I changed the oil, had to knock down this sealant and re-repaired qualitatively I couldn't. In the end, always leaking. Pluck all summer from the active drive, crankcase gases after playing through CPG squeezed all the gaskets. The entire engine in oil. 1000 left 1.5 l of oil. Gases pressed even through kwkg (valve ventilation of crankcase gases) and correspondingly the butter, too. Around kwkg all in oil. When cold weather comes, it's back these starting problems with oil consumption. And I gave up. Decided to do kapitalku engine.
A compression test:
Cilindr - 22,5
Cilindr - 30
Cilindr - 25
Cilindr - 15
The nozzle swaying left, right, extension hex head, came easily.
Removing the valve cover, I was shocked. Although it should be clear. The previous owner went with not a working thermostat and probably not changed particularly oil, though, and pouring Castrol.
Cracked the sump. The previous owner pulled the bolts from the soul or rather in the service he got sucked. On the pallet the automatic transmission is also disrupted the 2 bolts
Visible wear of the cylinder, direct visible step, the working surface and at the top is not working.
Ordered the strip with 1 hole (1-LOCH), 1st repair size. Because he was convinced that the engine was never moved. But then I learned that the plant may go strip 2-LOCH and even 3-LOCH, had to order 2-LOCH as it was. But not yet ordered. I want to measure the height of the output piston and determine exactly what the gasket set.
The cylinder block gilsoul specialists in
a little washed details.
The crankshaft that would order new bearings, I measured rammer journals with a micrometer. All ideally.
Of yew dimensions:
Nominal, yellow 59,977-59,983 mm
Nominal, green 59,970-59,976 mm
Nominal, white 59,964-mm 59,969
Colors marked with paint on the crankshaft.
April 13 start the Assembly of the engine, even try to make a video report on kraynyak quality photo report, with good descriptions and quality photos
Total for kapitalku left at the moment 2000$
Sorry for my english
I'm from Russia.
