My newly purchased 2002 E46 320i F/L

evnmopwr

Well-known member
New to forum...
Owned nothing but VW since i can remember.
Always LOVED the BMW brand ( 330i Especially )

This is my new ( to me ) 2002 320i F/L.

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Engine and gearbox is 200% ... gear selection and Change is so smooth, you barely know when it happens... LOl
minor things to attend to but 43k later, im happy to have had the opportunity to view, Pay and now own it..

Plans:
* FULL service
* Replace everything that needs replacing
* individual Kit
* ditch the wheels for individual mags
* AND GET RID OF THAT NASTY STEERING WHEEL for the individual M one
 

evnmopwr

Well-known member
Engine bay ( very Dusty ... Owner used once a week to take his dogs to the Park for a walk. 3times a week it drove MAX! )
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The boot area ( carpet is little messy )
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Interior ( Sorry its still abit Dirty ... But im still impressed minus the steering.. Hate it )
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Car going tomorrow to NB Mechanical off Belgravia road, Penlyn for its FULL services and Complete checkup


Things i noted on the car that MUST be seen to
* The cluster is busted ( Reset trip button does not work and some "dead Pixels"/faulty light too ) Will send to combined electronics to sort out..
* Coolant light comes on then goes off now and then. ( will bleed the system before checking sensor )
* Coolant pipe at the Expansion tank shows signs of wear ( brown soot can be seen above it )
* Small pipe running to intake has been sealed with Silicone.. so assuming it broke
* Air pipe connecting to the Air box is missing its clamp
* fuel Float ( seems to be giving Incorrect/Delayed reading ).
* obviously the Service .. Oil, oil filter, fuel filter, plugs ..etc etc etc you name it.

After that, to A-List car wash for FULL detail..
 

evnmopwr

Well-known member
Car came back from NB Mechanical.
28 error codes on the car. Nothing resent thankfully.
ALL cleared 100% OK.
Oil change done, new oil filter, plugs etc

Issues Listed/Confirmed:

* Prop shaft coupling/bearing causes slight vibration at 3000rpm
* Front right Control arm bush is worn
* Gauge cluster buttons dont work ( So cannot do the reset test on cluster nor reset the trip meter )

After collecting the car, i Bled the Cooling system and Coolant light Does not come on anymore... AWESOME!!!

* Loosened the coolant expansion tank bleeder screw.
* Remove the radiator and coolant expansion tank drain plugs. Once coolant has stopped dripping, reinstall the radiator drain plugs.
* Turned Ignition ( DID NOT START THE CAR ) ...
* turned on the Blower at full heat and FULL BLAST..
* Topped up with coolant to MAX
* Tightened bleeder screw again


Also, i fixed up the float issue too
Float/ Cluster was giving Incorrect Fuel level reading and the Fuel leak seemed to have been coming from the float

Tools i used
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Remove the nuts with 10mm socket
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Remove the slide Plug (As you pull up, you need to pull towards you), and the Fuel line
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because of pressure in the system, Fuel will GUSH out of that line. Just let it be and allow it to run out on its own

using hammer and Screw driver, tap on those little humps to remove the clamp.. ( Lefty loosie, righty tighty )
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Clamp is out. Now pull on the little finger hole to get the pump out
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PUMP OUT .. and the reason the float wasn't working AND the seal was not put correctly in place..
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Cleaned Copper Strips while it was already out and unclipped...
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Reconnected everything.. CLIPPED THE FLOAT ARM IN PLACE
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Reinstalled pump, connected fuel line and Plug...
When installing, The Rubber seal must be put in place while you holding the Pump up.
Once in place, then you can push down on the pump to have it seal.
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Results:
FULL TANK OF GAS. giving 100% correct reading...
Saved some bucks with those DIYs
will drive the car now for this month. and will take it back to NB mechanical to check if any codes reappeared..

This morning was abit stressful. Car was idling way too low on cold start. ( 1st time this happened )
Idles just above 500rpm instead of the normal 800rpm.. Was driving very rough and Lazy.
drove for few minutes. then stopped. turned off the key.
when i started her up again, She idled steady and we had power. Still not idling at 800rpm though.
Drove the Crap outa her and at the next stop, she was normal again...

Any advice what it could be?
 

evnmopwr

Well-known member
Update... Air Leak found..
Pipe running to Dipstick was the cause... replaced and now 100% ok..

Also, i Over tightened the Coolant breather screw while adding BMW coolant.
Took for a drive but by the time i got back, coolant was all over Cause the head of the screw Popped off.. :(

Found Few BMW places stripping bms and noone has..
Called Shamiels and he wanted R750 for genuine Second hand BMW one.. ( Just that 90deg bend piece... :RedNo:

R347 later, got a brand new Febi bilstein on COMPLETE at master parts bellville..

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Install this evening..
 

evnmopwr

Well-known member
FEBI Part number - 32599 ( at masterparts )
New Vs Old
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Old Removed
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New one in
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I was sure not to over tighten again.
only solution is prevention so i got my Cuz to do it once the system was bled and topped up.
 

evnmopwr

Well-known member
spikester666 said:
Very nice thread and car, keep it up, really like all the DIY posts and photos...


Thanks bud
normally, with the assistance of my bro, We work on the VWs ourselves..
And nothing Scares me really.. Worst that can happen, i can mess it up. HAHAHA, but there is always sumone to correct it..

I figure, Why through money at sumone else when you can first try and if you fail, then send

That mindset hasnt costed me BIG yet, lets hope it stays that way.. lol
 

Brandon93

New member
Congrats on the ride:clapper:

Always loved the E46 and keep up with the DIY posts. Really informative:thumbs:
 

abmi0000

///Member
Nice catch - just noticed that the front indicator is from a 330i non Sportpack. It's the only model with silver outline and not black.
 

evnmopwr

Well-known member
thanks guys

I have noticed tho that the front and back bumpers dont fit too Well and have been resprayed.
Apparently the bumpers were Cracked and scrapped to a beyond repair kinda damage so it was replaced...

I want to remove both bumpers this evening.. Will check to see if they original or not ( Doubt they original )

Good thing we AA tested the car first. AA confirmed No crash..

Things i need now:
* The Stone Guard tray Out front below the engine. Since mine is not there
* Standard back box with the standard double tail pipes from E46 320, 325i, 330i ....

if you know of anyone who has to sell, Please let me know...
Decided not to do the individual kit. Since my beadings are chrome, i will need to spray them Black and i dont lus for all that crap

So would like the Mtech1 bumpers with the 17" sportspack wheel ( Stand corrected if it is or not. lol )

This is what i want to end up with
Original Snug fitting Std bumpers and this wheel
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evnmopwr

Well-known member
Ok so now i need some Advice...
IF ANYONE OF YOU HAD THIS ISSUE BEFORE, WHAT WAS YOUR FIX.

So i was monitoring the Cars L/100km range ...
I drive from Athlone to Bellville Daily for work.

Odd trips to Canal Walk etc etc... havent used the car long distance yet.

My average to Work and back ( including the Start and Stops at the shop after work ), I get about 14L/100kms .. ok i punch it now and then and in between. what can i say ... lol

Cruising to malls etc on highway driving, i managed to get about 13L/100kms ... All speeds about between 80kms - 140kms

I have searched and i see people talking about averaging between 10L-12.1L/100km city driving ... :hammerhead:

now im not really worried about the Fuel bill but am worried if the car has an issue of sorts?

I have not done the R100 fuel test to see what i get off it but your thoughts on if i should get it checked out would be Awesome

I have read on 1 forum that they advise the change in Fuel filter as it could be busted. (that was not replaced when i had her serviced)

Thanks
 

evnmopwr

Well-known member
Another thing i noticed Just now, the Traction Warning Light (yellow) and the handbrake light (Red) just came on like right now and Stayed on

Break fluid is Maxed so its not that.
Holding in the ASC button for 5seconds does nothing.

Going to Start off with checking the Handbreak switch. ( I believe its a Push Switch so may be stuck ) also will check the Speed Sensors all round ( was advised to check )

If i can get that off, Then It will need to to be plugged in to see why the traction light is on.

NOTE: The Cluster on this Car is abit wonky ( dead Pixels etc ). So COuld also be that thats the problem

One possible clue is the Steering Suddenly is off Centre. ( Slightly )
Quick Google search points to the Steering Position sensor..

Will be good to Check out...
Will first of all have the it checked for error codes..

Ciao:cartel:
 
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