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///M3 V8 – Bearing/ Conrod Failures in SA?
- Thread starter Jiggy
- Start date
Fordkoppie
///Member
I personally know of 3 cases. Its definitely a problem.
How much of it is a direct result of the user, I can't tell
How much of it is a direct result of the user, I can't tell
Rodney///Marsh
New member
dude, I haven't heard of anything personally but have read a lot about it..
I do however believe its a direct result of the faulty nut between the steering wheel and the seat.. the problem usually lies in this area..
I do however believe its a direct result of the faulty nut between the steering wheel and the seat.. the problem usually lies in this area..
Daaf Vader
New member
:biglol: have to find that nut and fix it :roflol:
Rodney///Marsh
New member
Daaf Vader said:
bro.. they are all around us.. I personally know a few that require some persuasion with a hammer to come right.. or as my dad, jy nodig a MOER TOOL om die MOER reg te maak
From my understanding it’s a couple of scenarios:
Over Revved
Poor oil grade
Poor servicing
Lemon engine – being unlucky!
But from what I saw, there is one with + 250,000km in the states with no problems.
They run Blackstone reports post every oil service to check wear and tear on the bearings... Anyone every run one?
Just interested to see what resources we have available here in sunny SA!
Over Revved
Poor oil grade
Poor servicing
Lemon engine – being unlucky!
But from what I saw, there is one with + 250,000km in the states with no problems.
They run Blackstone reports post every oil service to check wear and tear on the bearings... Anyone every run one?
Just interested to see what resources we have available here in sunny SA!
Rodney///Marsh
New member
Jiggy.. all jokes aside bro..
the v8 is like the 3.2 is like the 3.0. proper maintenance is required and proper driving is required. its not a vtec or mark 1 that you can start up and rev to limiter. in all honesty, no car should be treated this way.
I learnt over the years that you one needs to spend money on good grade oil and proper oil filter because this is the heart of your car. Like with the human body, healthy blood, healthy body. Good oil, good engine..
in the M3 manual, they tell you and I quote from my manual, the correct operating temperature lies between 80 degrees C and 120degrees C. if the car is driven in an enthusiastic manner, a temperature of 130 degree C should not be exceeded. Until engine oil temperature reaches 50 degrees C, do not exceed an engine speed of 4000rpms
my car has 260 000 on the clock, serviced regularly and driven fairly well from what I understand and she doesn't smoke or have any funny rattles. My dad traded in a 525I MEX years ago with 428 000 km on it.. never been opened but that is proper maintenance and proper driving. don't get me wrong, my dad is quite an enthusiastic driver, the man raced at goodwood show grounds back in the day and used to be part of the hell drivers but its just how you prepare before actually giving the car stick..
my 2 cents
the v8 is like the 3.2 is like the 3.0. proper maintenance is required and proper driving is required. its not a vtec or mark 1 that you can start up and rev to limiter. in all honesty, no car should be treated this way.
I learnt over the years that you one needs to spend money on good grade oil and proper oil filter because this is the heart of your car. Like with the human body, healthy blood, healthy body. Good oil, good engine..
in the M3 manual, they tell you and I quote from my manual, the correct operating temperature lies between 80 degrees C and 120degrees C. if the car is driven in an enthusiastic manner, a temperature of 130 degree C should not be exceeded. Until engine oil temperature reaches 50 degrees C, do not exceed an engine speed of 4000rpms
my car has 260 000 on the clock, serviced regularly and driven fairly well from what I understand and she doesn't smoke or have any funny rattles. My dad traded in a 525I MEX years ago with 428 000 km on it.. never been opened but that is proper maintenance and proper driving. don't get me wrong, my dad is quite an enthusiastic driver, the man raced at goodwood show grounds back in the day and used to be part of the hell drivers but its just how you prepare before actually giving the car stick..
my 2 cents
Fordkoppie
///Member
It is just physically impossible to build a high revving and highly strung engine that lasts for the general stupid public. Because more than half of the users don't know how to treat a compromised engine, or simply doesn't care.
I guess that is another reason BMW is straying away from these "race engines" and rather opted for lobbing turbocharged torque monsters
I guess that is another reason BMW is straying away from these "race engines" and rather opted for lobbing turbocharged torque monsters
Agree with the above. If you're gonna treat it like shit, it's gonna return the favour. These cars like all cars need to be looked after very well. I tend to think of it like a Toyota 20V. Lovely engine that will rev to timbucktoo everyday as long you keep everything in check, the minute you step out of line she'll throw a rod bearing at your wallet
100% agree with the comments!
I don’t rev past 2500rpm on all my cars until I reach full op temp! Never had a problem... It’s a racing engine, so it has high limits, but built within boundaries. They have to pour warm oil into an F1 car’s engine as it would cease it the oil was cold!
I have been using Mobile 1 oil as well – I don’t mind paying more per litre as it will save thousands in the future...
I don’t rev past 2500rpm on all my cars until I reach full op temp! Never had a problem... It’s a racing engine, so it has high limits, but built within boundaries. They have to pour warm oil into an F1 car’s engine as it would cease it the oil was cold!
I have been using Mobile 1 oil as well – I don’t mind paying more per litre as it will save thousands in the future...
Rodney///Marsh
New member
Jiggy said:
agreed bro..
Philip Foglar
///Member
I wonder how many of these "broken" engines had a life of burn-outs and rev competitions. :fencelook:
As most have already said, it still mostly comes down to how the engine is treated from the moment it is started - no cold engine likes to be hammered, some can tolerate it more, but never good! High revs (within rev range) should be fine, but then again, you are putting all the materials within the engine to the test. All of my cars don't see large throttle openings (also no higher than 2800 rpm) when cold and only once the engine (and gearbox) has reached operating temperature will I start to drive as normal and maybe start pushing it if I want to.
I would still love to own an E90 M3 manual someday, but finding one and believing it not to have been abused is the problem... :fencelook:
As most have already said, it still mostly comes down to how the engine is treated from the moment it is started - no cold engine likes to be hammered, some can tolerate it more, but never good! High revs (within rev range) should be fine, but then again, you are putting all the materials within the engine to the test. All of my cars don't see large throttle openings (also no higher than 2800 rpm) when cold and only once the engine (and gearbox) has reached operating temperature will I start to drive as normal and maybe start pushing it if I want to.
I would still love to own an E90 M3 manual someday, but finding one and believing it not to have been abused is the problem... :fencelook:
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