Infamous brake shudder around 90kph

[maximus]

Hello fellow fanatics!

I've been experiencing some hectic brake shudder/shimmy
for a while now; while driving and braking from or around +-
90kph and once after 100kph its fine again :fencelook: ....
and it only happens when the car is "warm" i.e. taken around
the block a few times.

Now i've done some homework and found out a list of things
that could be causing this and other sounds in the front..
(thanks to BMW34.net)...contrary to popular belief, it is
a myth regarding with the "warped brake rotors" as a few sites
states that other parts may be the cause i.e. incompatible brake
pads etc. and not the actual rotor.

Plus i just fitted new shocks all round, but this problem have
already existed prior to fitting the new shocks and im pretty
sure the strut housings are all tightened.

So I decided to take a peek and here's what I found;

im not sure if this is the tie-rod end or the link arms?
but as you can see from the pictures, the bushes are virtually
non-existant :argh:

so i called up my mechanic/garage and told them the situation
and then i decided, i'd rather have most of the front suspension
changed because of the fact i never remembered my parent's
ever changing those parts when they had it.....

today i received the quote:

:fishwack: :argh: soooo much money! :flyfun:

so yeah...going to get them all replaced/fixed and will report back
when it's done!

enjoy your day!

 

[Mike1]

Dude thats a mental price! Why not go to the scrappies and look for replacement parts there?

 

[maximus]

the thing is, i just don't trust 2nd hand suspension parts...especially
bushes as you can never where or what have happened with them.

i reckon i will just change the RH & LH tie rod ends + link arms (i.e.
the visibly broken things) and see if the problem goes away or not.

anyone else have advices?

 

[///MALCOLM325]

The part prices seems to be excessive, try and source the parts cheaper and then get a good mechanic to fit them on. Don't get second hand parts for the suspension if you really want a solid ride.

4 days for this job doesn't seem right as well - that's why the labour cost is also inflated ... :nonono:

 

[Fordkoppie]

Those are just the sway bar end links and will definitely not cure the shimmy. Will only cause more body roll in a corner
My money would be on the thrust arms(they call them the upper control arm for some reason). They are about R500 each for aftermarket items.
Then inspect the lower control arms and tierods + drag link with the idler arm on the passenger side.

 

[Nic_s]

I've never had to replace those bushings, but the prices seem a bit high. PM Rick540 with a link to this post. He'll surely be able to tell you if the mechanic is taking you for a ride or not. :thumb:

 

[maximus]

okey dokey, will do!

thanx for the feedbacks everyone! :thumbs:

 

[Raybimmer]

Old bmws need attention , either you do it yourself or buy a bottle of vaseline and ...enjoy the ride.....:rollsmile:
If you can swing a spanner you can recon your front suspension over a time as funds allow .Jack the car up,put it on axle stands and shake/view all joints .
Shop around for prices and brands .
The anti roll bar links should be noisy ( if any ) in a sudden direction change as they load up ,not during normal driving .Car will roll more in a corner due to play there .

 

[Lev]

Bro those parts prices are a bit high. Are you sure your local supaquick or kwikfit cant sort that out for you?

Also what do they mean by upper control arm bush and lower control arm bush, if your control is like an e36 it should have only one bush , the lower control arm bush. Then there are two ball joints and the stablilizer link. But I dont know the E34, please correct me if I'm wrong E34 owners.
Thanks.

 

[rick540]

Those prices are way high, should be closer to R7500

My money is also on the upper control arms and rubber bushes which cause the shaking. replace just those and the sway bar links and see if it cures the problem before spending further.

 

[maximus]

okey dokey, thanks!

 

[maximus]

UPDATE: just got my Beemer back from the garage...

asked them to only replace the following:
-Sway bar link arms 2X
-Stabiliser bushes
-UCA bushes 2X

will drive it around tomorrow and see if problem is gone.

 

[Robert Watt]

Hi everyone

I was just browsing through all the posts when I came across this one.

The prices of all the parts are rediculous. I actualy work at a factory that manufactures polyurethane bushes for the after market and we also do refilling of balljoints. We also do special jobs where we actualy cut bushes to specific requirements. If anyone is inrested they can give us a call on 039 727 2208 and ask for me Robert.

 

[P1000]

Hi everyone

I was just browsing through all the posts when I came across this one.

The prices of all the parts are rediculous. I actualy work at a factory that manufactures polyurethane bushes for the after market and we also do refilling of balljoints. We also do special jobs where we actualy cut bushes to specific requirements. If anyone is inrested they can give us a call on 039 727 2208 and ask for me Robert.

Polyurethane is hardly a replacement for fluid filled rubber, especially if it is a car designed for comfort with good control. Maybe if you want a racecar, but for everyday driving, OEM is far better than anything else.

 

[Morty]

Had a very similar problem on my e39. Changed the control arms and it made no difference.
3 months later I discovered that the tyres I had fitted were not round(from a defective batch) - easily checked on a wheel balancing machine. New set of tyres and the problem was fixed.

 

[maximus]

whoops forgot to update. After those parts were changed, the car no longer shudder anymore :thumbsup:

 

[Philip Foglar]

That's good to hear Max! Have you also had the wheels balanced recently just to play safe? :thumbs:

 

[maximus]

That's good to hear Max! Have you also had the wheels balanced recently just to play safe? :thumbs:

Hmmm, it's about time. Will add that to the list :rollsmile:

 

[Philip Foglar]

Check to make sure that the tyres are all running true and without any flat spots etc. Maybe let them first run the wheels to check this before they balance if you say that you have no vibrations now!