E63 M6 Errors

Bugger

///Member
Ok, so where to start. A couple of months ago I was driving from Durban to JHB, nice gentle cruise, in my M6. The drive down to Durban a couple days before had been absolutely fine, no issues, even decent consumption. Drove around Durban for a couple of days, again, no issues.

On my way back from Durban, just outside Warden, I get the fright of my life. About 5 errors consecutively flash on my HUD. In random order:

1.DSC Failure
2.EDC Failure
3.Tyre Pressure Monitor Failure
4.Start Assist Failure (this is just the hill start assist that prevents the car from rolling on an incline)
5.SMG Failure (no red cog)
6.Windscreen washer low :rollsmile:

These happen all at the same time, but the car still drives fine, no limp mode, no physical signs of stopping, nothing. Just carries on. But as you can probably imagine, I crapped myself.

I have a Bluetooth diagnostic dongle in my OBD port, and software on my phone. I pulled over, switched the car off, left it for a couple of minutes, restarted and it flashed all the errors again. I turned it off again, ran a diagnostic scan on the car, and it came up with all of the above. I cleared the faults, and they all went (except the EDC or Dynamic Driving Control and the windscreen washer :rollsmile:). I then noticed, that the EDC button was not illuminated anymore. I always drive my car in the Sports setting, because I enjoy the stiffer suspension and the handling dynamics when in that setting. It stays on by default when you select it, so every time you switch the car off, it comes on automatically when you restart. I then manually put it into Sport, and the car felt fine.

I carried on my trip without further incident, until I got to Heidelburg, when it happened again. I was relatively close to home (I stay in Fourways) and wasn't going to pull over on the side of the road. I stopped at the Total along that stretch of freeway, because I had to put petrol in,cleared the faults, and carried on. When I got home, there were no more errors, until I was getting out, and it flashed the damper image with an exclamation mark on the DIS on the dashboard. I ran diagnostics again, to see if it was a fault I could clear, but this one persisted.

So it's been a couple of months now, and only once since have I had all the errors thrown at me. However, this one is the one that won't clear:

Chassis:
Electronic damper / Elektronische Daempfer
Fehler: maximum steering angle correction value exceeded
Code: 5FE1

I've done some research on the net, trying to find a reasonable explanation. M5Board.com is very useful it would seem. But not very concise in what the actual fault is. It seems that it could be anything from an alternator, to a battery, to an EDCK module, to an actuator (I have discounted this because the car doesn't go into Limp Mode), to a steering angle sensor. Now, as you can imagine, these are not exactly cheap parts. Guys are talking about parts being anything from $300 to $3000 to replace. From the experienced technical guys on here, where do you recommend I start? I am thinking of the steering angle sensor (SZL), which apparently can be cleaned. My steering wheel does sit at a slight angle due to my alignment issue,and the fact I have really crappy tyres on the front.

I know my wheel alignment is badly out, due to some unseen damage on the rear subframe by the previous owner, where it seems a power slide came to a grinding halt after being introduced to a kerb. Most of these are DIY, except perhaps the alternator and the actuators, but before I go diving in and start pulling things apart, where would the most logical place be to start? The SZL? There is a full DIY thread on how to do it, and it's insane but definitely doable. From the stuff I've read, it could be something simple, and it seems that dealers just go on what the diagnostics say,rather than actually investigating the problem thoroughly,so I don't want to get them involved until I absolutely have to or need to.

Any feedback is welcome!
 

Fordkoppie

///Member
Your steering sitting off center is definitely a possible cause. Perhaps not the only thing here, but definitely a suspect to the errors. Even the e46s do this if the steering is not centered properly.

Get the alignment done. Its the cheapest and wont do harm to the tyres either
 

Bugger

///Member
Thanks Ford. That's where I am thinking of starting. But because the car has the whole EDC system, gotta take it to BMW to get aligned. Took it to Tiger Wheel and Tyre, they say they can't do it, same at Supa Quick and Hi-Q.

But I think it's the best place to start. And a new battery wouldn't hurt either.
 

zaleonardz

Well-known member
Do not stress about all the errors at once, its perfectly normal.

Each of those systems that you have mentioned are interlinked.

If you have an implausable steering angle sensor, the DSC/ABS cannot re-act, if the DSC is not happy, neither is the tyre pressure warning, neither is the SMG, bla bla bla.

The fact that you have a single diagnsotic item is a very good thing,

At worst case scenario, you have damage to the suspension and or steering gear, but steering angle correction I would go for SZL.

Much better scenario is that the steering angle sensor has gone bad, and this is most likely the cause, since the repeated failures...

Steering angle sensors need to be coded, so this is not a backyard kind of job, either somebody decent with the right tools, which would be the case for the mechanical work as well, or dealer.
 

QikNish

Well-known member
Seems like the alignments the issue. Start there. What color is your car by the way? Post pics.
 

Bugger

///Member
Pics on this thread

http://www.bmwfanatics.co.za/showthread.php?tid=53019&page=3

I'm going to do the steering angle sensor first, then take it to BMW and see if I can get the wheel alignment sorted out, and while I'm there, find out about replacing the battery just because I know that as they age so the voltages lessen and issues start.

On that, can anyone recommend a non OEM option? Or should I perhaps just look at a charger to get the amps back up?
 

Ratslaaf

///Member
^^^ If the alternator can't get the battery sorted then a charger won't either. An alternator can supply a hell of a lot more amps than most battery chargers.
 

Bugger

///Member
Gbyleveldt said:
^^^ If the alternator can't get the battery sorted then a charger won't either. An alternator can supply a hell of a lot more amps than most battery chargers.

It's the joys of owning a car that is dominated by electronic systems. I'm not going to even start hazarding a guess at the cost of a replacement alternator. Batteries alone are over R4000. Best thing is to get it to an auto sparky and let him have a look and do some tests.
 

Ratslaaf

///Member
Heh, I wasn't stating there's anything wrong with the alternator. I was just commenting on the fact that you wanted to charge the battery to get "the amps up". Point is, the alternator will do a better job (provided it's ok) than any battery charger you can buy off the shelf as far as providing ample enough current. Of course, there's monster chargers available but I think such chargers are not relevant to this discussion.

But yes, batteries do go off and they don't like sitting there being drained and only charged every second weekend when you go for a short cruise. What your car's alternator can't do is 'revive' the battery, for this you need one of those fancy C-Tek chargers. This is something you can try before wanting your battery replaced.

What, though, gives you the idea the battery is not up to scratch? Did the car come up with a low battery warning?
 

Bugger

///Member
In the research I've done, the errors presented could be from a faulty or ailing alternator, as well as/or a battery. Apparently the battery doesn't throw specific faults when it's losing charge, it causes other systems to not communicate properly due to insufficient charge in the system, so the errors like the DSC failure etc. could potentially be linked to an ailing battery.

However, it's also been said that the alternator could potentially be an issue. The alternator takes over driving the electronics after about 30 minutes or so of driving. If you look on this thread, the warnings that this guy got were exactly the same as mine:

http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e6...4-help-2008-bmw-m6-dsc-malfunc-edc-error.html

I'm not taking what these guys say as gospel, but they do seem pretty informed. I'm trying to eliminate possible issues.
And it seems the realistic strong use life for these batteries is 4-5 years? I've been told longer though, like closer to 7. My car being 7 years old might mean it's due.
 

Ratslaaf

///Member
7 years on a battery is long hey.

To check if the battery is ok, measure the battery voltage with the car off for a while. This should be around 12V or so. Anything lower is indicative that the battery is not holding charge. This might be because of the battery or the alternator - so follow the next step to be sure.

Then, to check the alternator, go for a long'ish drive and get back to the garage. Now, measure the voltage on the battery with the car running. This should be above 13.5V. If not, this indicates a dodgy alternator.

If all the above checks out ok, you can exclude the battery and alternator as the source of issues.
 

Bugger

///Member
Gbyleveldt said:
7 years on a battery is long hey.

To check if the battery is ok, measure the battery voltage with the car off for a while. This should be around 12V or so. Anything lower is indicative that the battery is not holding charge. This might be because of the battery or the alternator - so follow the next step to be sure.

Then, to check the alternator, go for a long'ish drive and get back to the garage. Now, measure the voltage on the battery with the car running. This should be above 13.5V. If not, this indicates a dodgy alternator.

If all the above checks out ok, you can exclude the battery and alternator as the source of issues.

Brilliant, thanks, I will do that. Hopefully it's neither, although 7 years is a bit of a stretch on an original battery! In dog years that's like 700. Lol. Rough estimate on a battery is R4500. So I'll start there.

Thanks for the input!
 

Bugger

///Member
Gbyleveldt said:
A Pleasure, let us know how this turns out. But yes, 700 dog years is almost a century!!

:roflol: and we know that's long!

I certainly will do. Hopefully if anyone else then gets something similar there is an easy reference point.
 

terrencem5v10

New member
hi bugger,some how missed this post,how is the car ? and new discoveries ,i can totally understand the fear n panic when these cars go faulty,start sweating n swearing and praying
 

Pho3niX90

///Member
Bud check gdrive for a battery. Much cheaper! And if you are passing near trichardt I can get you one for 1500 approx (cost price from a buddy).

The obd does drain the bat extremely fast I noticed. It didn't on the e46 but on the m6 if I leave it in I get warning after couple hours, but mine says that it's draining too fast and it shut everything down for safety.

Also, when I have the inpa cable in, and I start the car it goes into limp. I almost had a heart attack as I only owned the car a day the first time this happened, but figured out my cable sends it into limp probably for safety.

I can help you update your ecus to the latest version's if you continue to get errors for no reason.

Btw our cars have a 170 amp alternator which is huge, and the errors are probably from your alignment as these have been plagueing bmws from e46s as fordkoppie said, I would get that sorted first before anything else, and obviously the ancient battery as well. :)
 

Rommies

Active member
-Go get a proper battery test at a battery centre
-Go for alignment
-And replace/clean/reprogram the SZL.

That is what I would do.

good luck bugger!
 

Bugger

///Member
Thanks guys for all the input. Phoenix I may just take you up on that offer for the ecu upgrade. Please pm me your number and I'll make an arrangement with you next week. I think I'll start with the simple stuff like getting the battery tested and then doing the SZL clean. I'll do that asap.

In the meantime Phoenix your number would be appreciated.

Terrence, I did crap myself when it happened. I just need my car to be running properly. I can feel she's almost holding something back from a power perspective, and I don't like that one bit. The reason I got the 330d was to Ave my baby and appreciate her more. She just needs some tlc.

Thanks Rommies. I'm gonna do the simple stuff and build out from there.

Anyone say supersupercharger? :rollsmile:
 

terrencem5v10

New member
im very paranoid with my car to,wonder if you guy do the same after a hard drive or few hard pulls we just nervously wait to see any lights pop up, Bugger as much as parts are crazy priced often we see it was not a major failure ,something small,the cos and headache comes in by trying to pin point the faulty part.
the was a guy on gumtree few months back stripping a V10,might help if some odd part needed
 

Bugger

///Member
terrencem5v10 said:
im very paranoid with my car to,wonder if you guy do the same after a hard drive or few hard pulls we just nervously wait to see any lights pop up, Bugger as much as parts are crazy priced often we see it was not a major failure ,something small,the cos and headache comes in by trying to pin point the faulty part.
the was a guy on gumtree few months back stripping a V10,might help if some odd part needed

I actually found an ad on Junkmail for an M6 being stripped. I'm currently looking for a rear subframe for mine, so contacted the guy, no response as yet.

But I agree, whenever we can find an M5 or M6 being stripped, we should go see it anyway and see what's salvageable, if you build up spares, you should be good to go. I know exactly what you mean about waiting for errors. I guess with so many electronic control modules etc. in these cars, you have to be on tenterhooks sometimes just in case!

We should have a V10 meetup sometime!
 
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