Clutch Kit for e36 M3

[Rodney///Marsh]

howsit guys

I need help with this. I was told by someone that I should fit the original clutch from BMW into the car. The problem is that is crazy expesive and secondly needs to be brought in from Germany. So reading other articles, I come across a chap saying that its a SACHs clutch. How true is this and will it ok to use this clutch. Reason I ask, I contacted BEEMOW and they have it for R2900.

problem number 2

Vert - I found that the master cylinder is R895 excluding vat and slave is R398 excluding vat. I still get a special family discount on that.

with all that said.. I then popped around at a friend of a friends place and he is into some serious drifting and racing and stuff. he gets into the car, starts up puts the clutch in and says, dude, when was the last time someone drained out the brake fluid on the car. So I say, the previous owner had this done at a reputable BMW place. He says, no, not change the oil in reservoir, I am referring to draining the oil completely from the pipes and everything. opening all the nipples and just letting the fluid pass through the system.

I was so confused because how would that make a difference..
A1exander, your expertise would really be appreciated on this one.

 

[Hotclutch]

He's right about the brake fluid. Should be changed at regular intervals, but does not form part of the agent's services unless requested. Brake fluid is not expensive so you basically just looking at the labour cost of having it replaced.

 

[Rodney///Marsh]

cool, that's what he also said. my problem is that with the temperatures that these brakes reach, the fluid obviously takes a pounding. wouldn't the agents take this into account, especially because its a performance vehicle.

with that said, this chap says I must drain the fluid from the entire system and replace with new. perhaps it would also allow the brakes to be better and also the clutch would come up to where it should be

 

[Peter@AEW]

Clutch takes low on the M3.
However it would be a good idea to drain the fluids and bleed the system.

What I typically do is syringe the fluid out the reservoir and fill it up with clean fluid and then pump the fluid from the lines untill I see clean fluid in every bleed nipple.

 

[Rodney///Marsh]

Clutch takes low on the M3.
However it would be a good idea to drain the fluids and bleed the system.

What I typically do is syringe the fluid out the reservoir and fill it up with clean fluid and then pump the fluid from the lines untill I see clean fluid in every bleed nipple.

aaaaaaaaaaah.. that sounds easy enough..

but as stupid as this question may be, I have noticed that in the morning the clutch seems to be fine. but the minute she starts getting warm, the harder it is to engage into first gear at the traffic light, I assume that is not normal

 

[Peter@AEW]

Clutch takes low on the M3.
However it would be a good idea to drain the fluids and bleed the system.

What I typically do is syringe the fluid out the reservoir and fill it up with clean fluid and then pump the fluid from the lines untill I see clean fluid in every bleed nipple.

aaaaaaaaaaah.. that sounds easy enough..

but as stupid as this question may be, I have noticed that in the morning the clutch seems to be fine. but the minute she starts getting warm, the harder it is to engage into first gear at the traffic light, I assume that is not normal

That could be fluids ...as in brake fluid or gearbox oil

 

[Rodney///Marsh]

Clutch takes low on the M3.
However it would be a good idea to drain the fluids and bleed the system.

What I typically do is syringe the fluid out the reservoir and fill it up with clean fluid and then pump the fluid from the lines untill I see clean fluid in every bleed nipple.

aaaaaaaaaaah.. that sounds easy enough..

but as stupid as this question may be, I have noticed that in the morning the clutch seems to be fine. but the minute she starts getting warm, the harder it is to engage into first gear at the traffic light, I assume that is not normal

That could be fluids ...as in brake fluid or gearbox oil

thank you for that SIR.. I was hoping that it wouldn't be the clutch itself..

 

[Sankekur]

cool, that's what he also said. my problem is that with the temperatures that these brakes reach, the fluid obviously takes a pounding.

The actual problem is is that brake fluid is hygroscopic, so it absorbs water out of the atmosphere. This will reduce its boiling point, then the temperature of the brakes will become a problem. And it can also lead to corrosion of the brake system parts.
This it why it needs to be replaced at regular intervals, so as to prevent the excessive accumulation of water in the brake fluid.


Regarding the clutch kit, sachs or LUK will be fine, the dealer one will be either of those brands in any case. (And in some cases both)

 

[Rodney///Marsh]

cool, that's what he also said. my problem is that with the temperatures that these brakes reach, the fluid obviously takes a pounding.

The actual problem is is that brake fluid is hygroscopic, so it absorbs water out of the atmosphere. This will reduce its boiling point, then the temperature of the brakes will become a problem. And it can also lead to corrosion of the brake system parts.
This it why it needs to be replaced at regular intervals, so as to prevent the excessive accumulation of water in the brake fluid.


Regarding the clutch kit, sachs or LUK will be fine, the dealer one will be either of those brands in any case. (And in some cases both)

thanks bro.. really appreciate it.