bmw n54 BOOST ISSUES

[DSC]

Guys

From you experience . What will be the issue/issues if there is 0 boost .

As soon as pedal is pressed a bit hard it triggers the half engine light and fault code 0030FF fault code .

checked all vacuum lines all seems fine . Car feels dead . No turbo spool . No turbo noise at all . Feels like no boost from the get go .

Noticed at idle that the line coming from the brake line near the airbox. when disconnected at idle as strong suction at bottom of pipe . when put back on and checked vacuum above canisters . Cannot feel anything .

Any ideas?

Also is there any o rings i must change on the intercooler side for safe measures ?

 

[Jive_E46]

If the car isn't even attempting to go into boost then your car is in reduced power mode. Most common fault on these N54's is definitely the vacuum system but also the head gasket. Other issues could also be water pump, HPFP, or just packed up turbos, in that case Mamba Turbo offer an aftermarket solution to your troubles

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

 

[DSC]

If the car isn't even attempting to go into boost then your car is in reduced power mode. Most common fault on these N54's is definitely the vacuum system but also the head gasket. Other issues could also be water pump, HPFP, or just packed up turbos, in that case Mamba Turbo offer an aftermarket solution to your troubles

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

Thanks for the info Jive . if it was HPFP , Water pump , fault codes will be thrown and car will not be drive able / overheat etc . correct ? So i dont think its either of those .

Lets get to the turbos or vacuum .

Should i be getting vacuum on top of the canisters during idle ?

Why is there vacuum at the point where i circled on the pic and not anywhere near the canister or solenoids ? When car is at idle and the point I circled unclipped it has strong suction from bottom piece of pipe .

 

[SubLoaded]

30FF can be caused by boost leaks, or boost control.

Maybe @Jonathan335 can help you :biglol:

 

[Jeremy.d]

Congratulations you now have an N52:sorry:

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30FF can be caused by boost leaks, or boost control.

Maybe @Jonathan335 can help you :biglol:

Jono will definitely know. He's a Bimmer Maniac and loves N54.

 

[DSC]

Congratulations you now have an N52:sorry:

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30FF can be caused by boost leaks, or boost control.

Maybe @Jonathan335 can help you :biglol:

Jono will definitely know. He's a Bimmer Maniac and loves N54.

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:smilebounce: i think i will still whip a N52 .

 

[SubLoaded]

Congratulations you now have an N52:sorry:

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30FF can be caused by boost leaks, or boost control.

Maybe @Jonathan335 can help you :biglol:

Jono will definitely know. He's a Bimmer Maniac and loves N54.

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:smilebounce: i think i will still whip a N52 .

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Who knows.. You don't ever come to events... :tease:

 

[Twinz]

What mods/tune on the car?

 

[Iceman12596]

If you still have the canisters installed, check those could be a leak in where the lines run, i took mine out and 0 issues, could be your snails that have clocked , hard out but then again could also be the waste gates, check the vacuum lines and boost solenoids

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30FF can be caused by boost leaks, or boost control.

Maybe @Jonathan335 can help you :biglol:

Best comment of the day LOL :roflol::roflol::roflol::roflol:

 

[DSC]

0 mods .

if snails or wastegates wont it still produce some form of low boost ?

If i were to remove those canisters , that will mean running the lines that come over the valve cover direct to the solenoids ? its got a fabric covered vacuum hose to cannisters. those hard lines over valve cover seem to be alright .

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What mileage do snails normally give up ? Another member said that if it were wastegates i will still get boost up to the point where it cant hold then ill get no boost .

mine is no boost at all . i am going to look at the i.c connections and make sure the o rings are alright .

but any other thoughts or ideas .

 

[NBN]

You can't visually inspect the lines... You have to physically remove and check for cracks and tears and use a mechanical method. For a few hundred bucks and an afternoon of diy... I would just replace all the vaccum line. You need about 4metres of good, quality, 3.5mm silicone hose. Make sure to run the lines as routed by the oem clips and grommets.

 

[Iceman12596]

Also have a look at your chargepipe, could have burst off the throttle body.
If its 0 mods and stock chances are that is the cause.

 

[M@rk]

Also have a look at your chargepipe, could have burst off the throttle body.
If its 0 mods and stock chances are that is the cause.

+ on the charge pipe

could also be a faulty tmap sensor but then you would get codes.

 

[DSC]

:thumbs:

Question .

At idle - with the vacuum hose removed from top of canister must there be vacuum pulling in both canisters ? When i place my finger on the top of canister there is no vacuum during idle .

 

[akash]

Could be several things.
• Vacuum lines – If you still have the original lines I suggest replacing all of them. There could be a crack in one of them, which will be had to spot because they are braided. Silicone vacuum line are not expensive.
• There’s also vacuum lines running from the bottom of the cannisters, check those, you have to remove the wheel and fender lining to inspect.
• If the wastegates failed, they are designed to fail in the open position to prevent over boosting.
• It could also be your boost solenoids
• It could be a cracked CP
Everything else that some of the members mentioned could also be an issue. Best bet would be to do a smoke test.

 

[DSC]

Could be several things.
• Vacuum lines – If you still have the original lines I suggest replacing all of them. There could be a crack in one of them, which will be had to spot because they are braided. Silicone vacuum line are not expensive.
• There’s also vacuum lines running from the bottom of the cannisters, check those, you have to remove the wheel and fender lining to inspect.
• If the wastegates failed, they are designed to fail in the open position to prevent over boosting.
• It could also be your boost solenoids
• It could be a cracked CP
Everything else that some of the members mentioned could also be an issue. Best bet would be to do a smoke test.

Sorry should of mentioned . I checked the charge pipe . seems alright . Is theres someone in Durbs that can do a smoke test .

Some of the lines are replaced . but not silicone . Will be changing them .
I will need to check those lines under the canisters.
Boost solenoids have been replaced a few months ago .