635csi

DAN LEPINDEA

New member
Heya Folks
As per the detailed report received from the workshop, here are the following major points (I have not included the other minor items) :

1.The vehicle needs 4 new shocks. We would recommend Blitsein Shocks & Springs -(me: these are bitterly expensive - is any other alternative that I may use i.e. Jamex shocks and springs ???)
2. We suggest obtaining another complete Engine (me: they told me the option to obtaining an Alpina 3.5L engine but these engines are nowhere to be found !?! Not even a decent 540i engine available around. I believe that the 635s engines are strong enough although have only 12 valves - so, it will be cheaper to rebuild than replacing it)
3. Front Timing Cover leaking
• Tappet Cover leaking
• Power Steering Pump leaking
• Alternator Rubber Mounts have collapsed
4. The vehicle requires a new Radiator Unit
• Thermostat Housing needs replacing
5. The entire Rear Suspension needs to be replaced
• The Rear Axle Carrier is bent. The Trailing Arm Side Shafts have excessive ‘play’ (Left Side is cracked/ broken. Right Side is bent)
• The Prop Shaft is broken
6. Front Tie Rods & Draglinks have ‘play’
Front Control Arm Rubber & Joints have ‘play’
Front Pitman Arm has ‘play’. - all need replacement
7. Both engine mountings have collapsed
8. Gearbox Selector Mechanism is broken
• Gearbox Mounting has collapsed

UNQUOTE

This is how the car was delivered by my mechanic (in Phoenix/ Durban North) on 19 February 2012 after he had it 4 months in his care for repairs

If anyone of the good guys from the forum could revert with any options on the above - Although the body, paint, interior, undercarriage are in perfect condition (attached photo), is it worth to go ahead and re-do everything (considering all replacements with brand new parts) and the "shark" will be new again or.............?!?
Also I have read last week in the newspaper that the SA Petroleum intending to phase out the LRP petrol in the next 5 years - so, those with the classic cars and older than 1990 will have to look for additives and alternative combinations to keep the engines running. That's an Eish !

Thank you kindly anticipated / DAN
 

skank

New member
Hi Dan,

I don't think you need to worry about LRP.

You can get bilsteins B4 shocks for about £50 each. plus shippiing and duties.

replacing the engine might be cheaper than rebuilding it. what is wrong with the engine?
 

Wes

///Member
Hey Dan,

Welcome:thumbs:

So how about some pics of your e24? :rollsmile:

Oh, and I run mine on Unleaded, no problems:=):
 

AvusM3

New member
Welcome Dan,

Wow mate that is some list! I am fortunately at the end of a similar list after restoring my M3!

Dan, at times you wanna chuck in the towel and give up and at times, the cheaper option does seem rather plausible however, IMHO and experience sometimes the cheaper option means you "pay twice" as I am sure you know.

I would try and first get a second opinion, as I am not too sure if the list above is populated by the first mech or a second one?

Take your time and shop around, try and stick to OEM parts or parts that come recommended by fellow Fanatics. Often the OEM parts are inferior to the aftermarket ones due to progress and technology but chat to the guys on the forum first as you are doing asking for advice on suspension etc! The guys here have a LOT to offer!

See if you can salvage your engine and even look around here, there two threads running about "Sharks" that are being stripped down for parts, PM Wes above for more about this!

The golden rule as far as expectations go, is that there will always be that "something" that needs to be done. Dont fool yourself into thinking that once you take care of the above there will be no more! My M3 is 17 years old and I have spent a fair amount and done a truckload and there is always " just one more thing", that is why we are Fanatics!

Do not discount the internet and Ebay, it will become your friend on the minor (small items) but form my experience it does work!

Good luck Mate, Take your Time!!

:thumbs::thumbs:
 

Peter@AEW

BMWFanatics Advertiser
Official Advertiser
DAN LEPINDEA said:
Heya Folks
As per the detailed report received from the workshop, here are the following major points (I have not included the other minor items) :

1.The vehicle needs 4 new shocks. We would recommend Blitsein Shocks & Springs -(me: these are bitterly expensive - is any other alternative that I may use i.e. Jamex shocks and springs ???)
2. We suggest obtaining another complete Engine (me: they told me the option to obtaining an Alpina 3.5L engine but these engines are nowhere to be found !?! Not even a decent 540i engine available around. I believe that the 635s engines are strong enough although have only 12 valves - so, it will be cheaper to rebuild than replacing it)
3. Front Timing Cover leaking
• Tappet Cover leaking
• Power Steering Pump leaking
• Alternator Rubber Mounts have collapsed
4. The vehicle requires a new Radiator Unit
• Thermostat Housing needs replacing
5. The entire Rear Suspension needs to be replaced
• The Rear Axle Carrier is bent. The Trailing Arm Side Shafts have excessive ‘play’ (Left Side is cracked/ broken. Right Side is bent)
• The Prop Shaft is broken
6. Front Tie Rods & Draglinks have ‘play’
Front Control Arm Rubber & Joints have ‘play’
Front Pitman Arm has ‘play’. - all need replacement
7. Both engine mountings have collapsed
8. Gearbox Selector Mechanism is broken
• Gearbox Mounting has collapsed

UNQUOTE

This is how the car was delivered by my mechanic (in Phoenix/ Durban North) on 19 February 2012 after he had it 4 months in his care for repairs

If anyone of the good guys from the forum could revert with any options on the above - Although the body, paint, interior, undercarriage are in perfect condition (attached photo), is it worth to go ahead and re-do everything (considering all replacements with brand new parts) and the "shark" will be new again or.............?!?
Also I have read last week in the newspaper that the SA Petroleum intending to phase out the LRP petrol in the next 5 years - so, those with the classic cars and older than 1990 will have to look for additives and alternative combinations to keep the engines running. That's an Eish !

Thank you kindly anticipated / DAN

Rebuilding the engine is the route to go so that you may retain the matched numbers. Not an expensive exercise if you do some of the work yourself. At the same time they can replace valve seats so that you can run Unleaded. If you do work on the head please insure that they do not hammer in new valve guides but that they rather use inserts or K Liners as they are known in engineering circles.

I am surprised with what they allege to be a bent rear axle carrier...very unusual I would check that out before letting anyone loose on it.
Propshaft is likely to have a broken Guibo or centre bearing which is easy to replace.

I am not sure if you can "wrench" on the car but it really is not a big and catastrophic list of repairs and it is equally consistent with an older car.
Most of the things you describe as being needy of attention are light DIY jobs.
 

Wes

///Member
@Dan: See what i meant about these guys being a helpful lot? :thumbs:

Its not a massive amount of work, and i promise you that it'll be worth it when the car is done..:rollsmile:
 

Rayzor

Well-known member
Hi Dan, lovely car you have there, all the best with the repairs. concentrate on one item at a time, i prefer starting with the expensive ones first. then work your way down. :thumbs:
 

Raybimmer

New member
Dan , are you able to unbolt and refit items maybe with a bit of patience ?

If the car can drive then for instance Radiator and thermostat and thermostat housing replaced first ( cant overheat the car on the way home now can we ? )

Look under the car -is the rubber at the front of the propshaft broken , torn or cracked ? Is the rubber at the middle of the propshaft broken or torn ? Grab the propshaft by hand and feel where there is play .

Shocks - Ask Moranor on the forum ( send him a pm ) , alternatively Afrishox in Jhb .

Engine and gearbox mountings are bolt out and fit new ones . Take old one to spares shop and check for replacement if originals not available ( eg e30 325i engine mountings are similar to V6 ford cortina mounts !! )

Engine-get second opinion -rebuild -these can be resleeved ( R2000 or so ) , then pistons , bearings etc .

Things like gaskets are sometimes a pain to replace due to loosening and then replacing parts - tappet cover gaskets are a common leaking area .

Suspension can be done monthly or as per budget - get down and lie on cardboard and look , you can see a lot -remember cracked brittle rubber needs replacing .

sorry for the long post.....I had to say something worth saying :rollsmile:
 

Clownshoe

Active member
BMW service bullitin
Basically on a pre-84 engine without hardened valve seats you can run unleaded as long as the engine has more 60000km on it. The valve seats apparently become prepared by the lead and do not require more after those Km. In 84 they came with hardened valve seats.

Dan... that is quite a list.

It may be worth sourcing a 6 that has trashed body and interior and just swapping stuff over. This seems the best option for your suspension woes.
There is an engine on the gum at the moment. Although a rebuilt engine would provide piece of mind and you may be able to hot it up a bit.

If you decided to fix everything and have it done ASAP that is going to be a hell of a bill. If you hang ten and look for donor cars you could do it for a reasonable amount.

I hope it all turns out well. The important thing is to remember that some vehicles are just past the economic repair stage. Their destiny is to help keep other examples on the road. Rather put your effort into caring for a better example than trying to salvage a wreck.


P.>S In the picture you sent me she looks good, pity that its just under the skirt she is a bit... tired. I would go the donor route.
 

Peter@AEW

BMWFanatics Advertiser
Official Advertiser
Guys the car is in JHB with a reputable workshop that prepares race cars and has over 30 years of experience in BMW's the owner having been workshop manager as well as technical representative for BMW.
 

Raybimmer

New member
a1exander said:
Guys the car is in JHB with a reputable workshop that prepares race cars and has over 30 years of experience in BMW's the owner having been workshop manager as well as technical representative for BMW.

This means the guy is thorough , his customer can decide as per his budget and any other considerations whether the car is economically worthwhile fixing .

I don't think any bad comments were made .
 

Wes

///Member
What exactly is wrong with the engine?

And how close to original are you hoping to keep the car, are you prepared to use uprated aftermarket parts when it comes to mountings and shocks etc?
 

Clownshoe

Active member
M88 would go nicely into there...

:idea:

If I had a genuine reason to throw out my lump I would definitely go with the M88... and there are few around.
 
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