2006 320d

Bennit

New member
Gents and ladies I recently got myself finally a beemer, it's a 320d sport pack with iDrive sat nav with 150000km on the clock! so far so good. Car is very clean inside!

1.Car is now due for service. So what's needs to be done on 150000 service? it also says I need new rear pads what's the price on those? is it an easy DIY?
2. As I was going through the menu I see there is Bluetooth but I couldn't pair my phone, anyone know how to go about this?
3. I have done my homework on these motors, I stand to be corrected but I thinks it's a M47 so few timing chains problems. But I read a lot of swirl flaps horror stories, so I guess they will have to go. Where do I get the delete kit? And EGR delete kit too?

Softwares and downpipes and bigger coolers, who do I see and what's the prices like for those?

Thanx.
 

tman

Well-known member
If I were you I would do the following:

Oil filter + oil change
Check / replace cabin and air filter. clean MAF.
Diesel filter replace
Inspect suspension, check shock absorbers
Definitely check your disks front and rear when you replacing rear pads. Rear pads are about R500 depending on brand. It's a fairly easy DIY.
Fluids change, as you wish, I would certainly consider powersteering fluid, Coolant flush, brake fluid, diff oil etc.
Lastly, if you have an auto get the gearbox checked out by ZF.

Edit: sort out maintenance, prior to considering mods

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FiRi@Rennzport

Well-known member
Official Advertiser
tman said:
If I were you I would do the following:

Oil filter + oil change
Check / replace cabin and air filter. clean MAF.
Diesel filter replace
Inspect suspension, check shock absorbers
Definitely check your disks front and rear when you replacing rear pads. Rear pads are about R500 depending on brand. It's a fairly easy DIY.
Fluids change, as you wish, I would certainly consider powersteering fluid, Coolant flush, brake fluid, diff oil etc.
Lastly, if you have an auto get the gearbox checked out by ZF.

Edit: sort out maintenance, prior to considering mods

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Excellent list, follow that. Also add Vibration damper to the list.
 

tman

Well-known member
Aah yes, Vibration damper, forgot about that. Check for cracks in the pulley (you can use a flashlight to check). @ 150 000 you might be lucky and it might have been replaced already. If not, Ross Duncan will charge R6500 Inc labour with OEM part. (I know, cuz mine is due now.)

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Bennit

New member
The disks and pads on all for are in great nick!

For peace of mind I'm thinking of doing all the fluids (brake, gearbox, diff & power steering)
Water pump
Filters (cabin, air & diesel)
And I will check the vibration damper for cracks!

How much will all the above cost? give or take?

Then I will check shocks, when I was doing pads I saw the boots on one shock was torn! But I will take it in for suspension inspection!

Then I will save up for a new turbo, bigger cooler, software and pipe!
 

S1NGH 911

BMWFanatics Advertiser
Official Advertiser
At that mileage you might want to change the main thermostat and inspect the egr thermostat as well, they are prone developing to cracks


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Solo Man

Well-known member
I can almost guarantee you that your thermostat/s need replacing as they are normally not functioning as they should at this age and mileage. All four the diesels i and my family bought the last 18 months needed thermostats as they were all running cold. Some of the diesels have the normal thermostat and some have the extra egr thermostat. Get some one with diagnostics to check your car's temp when hot to see if it is running at about 88 to 90 degrees. If not, replace the ther[/b]mostat/s. Also possible to check the temp with the obc buttons/reset button on the dash, but complicated. Enjoy the car! Also, first thing i normally do when i get a "new" diesel is removal of swirlflaps, clean egr and disconnect and removal of the cat. Also, very very important is check the condition of the oil separator/filter when you have the covers off. I have started to completely remove the oil separator as i have discovered that some of the E60 3l diesels come without them, just an empty oil separator casing!
 

Bennit

New member
Solo Man said:
I can almost guarantee you that your thermostat/s need replacing as they are normally not functioning as they should at this age and mileage. All four the diesels i and my family bought the last 18 months needed thermostats as they were all running cold. Some of the diesels have the normal thermostat and some have the extra egr thermostat. Get some one with diagnostics to check your car's temp when hot to see if it is running at about 88 to 90 degrees. If not, replace the ther[/b]mostat/s. Also possible to check the temp with the obc buttons/reset button on the dash, but complicated. Enjoy the car! Also, first thing i normally do when i get a "new" diesel is removal of swirlflaps, clean egr and disconnect and removal of the cat. Also, very very important is check the condition of the oil separator/filter when you have the covers off. I have started to completely remove the oil separator as i have discovered that some of the E60 3l diesels come without them, just an empty oil separator casing!

Where can I buy the swilflap delete kit? cause I have seen what they can do if they fail and fall into the engine. how easy is it to remove the intake? I took the cover off and it looks challenging?

EGR should I delete it or not? cause I read all it does is redirect hot air into the combustion chamber! also who makes the kits?

what's the oil separator and location?
 

Solo Man

Well-known member
Swirl flaps - you can buy the swirl flap blanking plates from the UK. I normally remove the swirl flaps, saw through the shaft, remove the swirly and plug it with a 5mm brass taper head screw with some vasvat grey mix just to make it nice and air tight. I cut the screw so that it is just protruding from the brass nut and then i knock it with a hammer to blunt the thread for further insurance. Have done that on many a inlet manifold and so far so good. Oil seperator sits on top of the engine between the air cleaner housing and the injectors at the back of the engine. Look on realoem for what it looks like or google swirl flap delete.
 
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